2 weeks past I had a garage replace the main rear engine seal, 1977 2.3 motor. I noticed it began to seep out in a couple of days later. Anyone had the same experience? Maybe the heat from the motor might help things. I have only done about 30 miles. Will have to take it back soon?
Thanks. Fred
I had that happen once. Turns out the seal got nicked when I installed it & leaked. It's also possible the crank itself might be damaged. If there is a groove in it, even a slight one the seal may leak.
Is it obviously engine oil? Thick and it could be (manual) trans fluid. Reddish and it can be (auto) trans fluid. Also depending on how clean they left the back of the engine it might be residual oil that is still yet to drip off.
Other possibilities are the nicking of the seal already mentioned, varnished oil/debris still on the crank sealing surface - or was the seal even really changed? Not knowing the integrity of the garage some establishments might have poured a can of seal sweller in the crankcase (hoping for the best) and charged you for a replacement. Odd as it may sound the rubber seal can also wear a groove in the steel/cast metal crank and affect the ability to seal. This though is more common on the front where belt accessories cause loads.
The seal replacement requires removing the driveshaft, linkage, starter, crossmember, trans, flexplate/flywheel before the seal can be reached and is the classic 'hundreds of dollars to replace a $5-10 part.' Does the car show signs that these items have been removed?
Engine oil for sure. I changed the red trans fluid myself not long ago. I am monitoring the leak. Informed the garage and can take it in next week. No oil came out overnight?
Thanks for the replies.
Fred
Decent news. The oil leak was from the rear of the oil pan which had a new cork gasket (Not my favorite material) put in place as it had to be removed when the new main seal was fitted. The oil surged down the back of the pan and onto the area where the new seal is then below this and onto the garage floor.
The pan bolts were tightened and all is well. Cork gaskets seem to have to be re-tightened as they seem to need settling in time.
Thanks.. Fred
Cork relaxes, you can tighten the bolts and come back an hour later and snug the bolts up again, depending on the thickness of the gasket it can take 2-4 times before they're fully compressed, and if you try and tighten them down all the way the first time you just blow the gasket out, I usually wait till the next day snug them back up, it is a PITA but it works. Best thing they ever came out with are the one piece pan gasket with captive washers same with valve cover gaskets..
Well, I'd say that it about the best bad news a guy could get. And, none of us "experts" thought of a secondary source of the leak. Not sure when Ford went to the rubber gasket with the steel inserts so as to not over tighten it. About 7 years ago it was over $25! But my '88 gasket and some RTV (had to pull the pan for the Turbo engine swap) is still going strong!