So I've got my swap done I've got the stock radiator in the cars stock spot from the 2.0 and the electric fan blowing threw the radiator with a switch i have the fan running trying to keep it cool by running it all the time but it still isn't workin. What are your suggestions to fix the problem I got new water pump and a 180 thermostat what have people done to keep the 2.3t from having this problem.
What size is your radiator?
Russ
Is your over heating at low or high speed?
To answer both questions at high and low speed the factory size of 78 2.3 pinto 1"1/4 thick 17" 5/8 wide 15"1/4 high that the core size I've see that some people out there use what looks like the same radiator setup but I could be wrong
CU426 is the part number for a new brass 2 core A/C radiator that you can get from Autozone or Ebay. It's the largest stock radiator out there & should cool it.
If not running engine driven fan and aftermarket electric could be trouble there too, often they cannot touch the engine driven airflow. Why even the smallest engines now often have TWO killer fan motors now. But you have to have super alternator output to be able to pull them.
flashback to the early 70's (1971 to be exact.
i had a 3 row (nearly 3" thick) brass core made to fit into the stock mounting flanges with new handmade upper & lower tanks for my 71.
cost me $100
point is this: where is the craftsmanship these days?
i know; it takes time but isn't your car worth the time?
guess i'm just a bit too old school
I hear that, my biggest fear is having to have someone bore a block or do competent headwork now. All the super good oldschool guys here are gone and the work done is absolutely abysmal, often scrapping the part after they brag about how good they are..............last 3 jobs I had done were each ruined. And STILL had to pay or go to court...............what idiots............
I'm running a stock Pinto 20" radiator in my '73 Turbo Pinto. I had to cut the radiator support and move it over. As the pictures hopefully shows I overlapped the shifted portion to strengthen the area. In the top picture if you follow the upper edge of the radiator opening it angles upward slightly just before going off the edge of the image. That is the original position of the piece that was moved. I have no cooling problems at all. I use a generic front mounted fan offset on the drivers side. The blade size just fits in the allotted area.
You didn't stated how you are verifying the overheating. There are times when gauges can read high when in fact the actual temperature is correct. What gauge and sender are you using? If the sender is mis-matched for the gauge the readings can be incorrect. Also most gauges run on a lower voltage (about 10 volts) and a regulator is attached somewhere under the dash. If that is bypassed then the gauges get full voltage and read high.