I have a vacuum line that's going to what looks like a dashpot on the choke. Is it necessary? If so, what would be the best and closest source for vacuum?
(http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt126/poomwah/Bobcat/20140429_173258_zpshpypzzbr.jpg) (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/poomwah/media/Bobcat/20140429_173258_zpshpypzzbr.jpg.html)
sorry for the blurry pic
and yes, I know its hideously dirty, LOL, I'm working on it
Not sure exactly what its for, but in replacing my timing belt and retiming my 2.3 (Holley 5200 V2 carb), I also investigated the vacuum lines- I have a similar one in my Bobcat wagon, and it was routed to the manifold vacuum that comes from the intake- it has a three way, one line coming from a round valve on the air cleaner which tees and goes to the intake manifold, one going to the dashpot, and one going to the vacuum canister in the drivers side wheel well. (See pics) I do know that it took some experimenting with the vacuum lines to figure out which routing of it seems to make the car run the best, but after changing things around for a couple of days and watching different thing like how long it would take to warm up, the time it took to kick down, and what the gas consumption seemed to be, this was the best routing to me- hope it helps!
thanks stacey, that's what mine WAS hooked up like, LOL. BEFORE :P
I'm going to open air cleaner so I will be losing a LOT of vacuum lines
I'd say then just take the "t" and elbow from the air cleaner and make it into a three way- ought to keep your vacuum from the intake then...? I'm kinda a newb, so what do I know? Lol!
The lines generally go to the aircleaner simply to pick up temperature there, the round device with two hoses is a temp operated on/off. Other line might go to the snorkel to operate the vacuum door to heated/unheated air intake. The line to choke is necessary to work the choke correctly. A linkage from the choke dashpot pulls on the choke qualifying linkage to set it properly. That and the electrical component both work together to move choke plate correctly.
so I would need to plumb the temp on/off device into the bottom of my new air cleaner?
Depends on what you're using it for. You need it for sure to open the snorkel door correctly. There can be more than one temp switch there, other things use them too. You can locate the switch just about anywhere in the round body of the aircleaner but not snorkel.
i wont have a snorkel.
i want to run an open air cleaner
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snorks
A snorkel is anything that sticks off of any base 'head'.
He was referring to the rectangular thing that protrudes from the round thing your 'air filter' goes in. ;)
I approve this message. Smart-assed though I might admit that it is tomorrow. :)
I know JD. Mine air cleaner won't have a snorkel door because it won't have a snorkel. It won't have anything coming off of the air cleaner at all
You should locate the opposite end of the PCV system in the air cleaner, that guarantees clean air to it all the time. PCV line goes from air breather to valve cover then through engine and PCV valve to intake.
thanks amc
I'm not all here today. If you simply use a filtered inlet no reason to put that PCV inlet in filter if you don't wanna. It just needs filtering is all.
Don't be tempted to dump the entire PCV system, it keeps so much sludge out of the engine it's not believable, but that works far better if you run a 195 stat so that the engine gets above 212 oil temperature, that boils out the water from the oil and then the PCV sucks it off; the water is a necessary component to make sludge acids. Why modern cars run hot and there is no sludge under valve covers at like 200K+ miles. Focus cars do not even turn fans on until 220 degrees.