I can't decide on whether to change intakes or not.
I'm not really after a performance boost as much as cleaning and simplifying my engine compartment. I want to remove emissions but I don't want it to look like its missing something.
Does anyone have pictures of clean, tidy engine compartments that are still using the stock intake manifold?
Some 2.0 & some 2.3 pics. Cast blast spray looks good on aluminum parts.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/enginemkj_zpsa5cec102.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/engine_zpse0268490.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/pinto020_zps4ae2f13b.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/29610080002_large_zps22e9087e.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/29610080025_large_zpsd34ad645.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/22572590006_large_zps5315e726.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/112pinto_zpsb0f313b9.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/OK/00b0b_cnScU5jnmr7_600x450_zpsa358883f.jpg)
I need to get an aluminum valve cover and move the alternator over to the passenger side.
agreed
I tell ya, that alternator on the drivers side makes it a real PITA trying to work on the distributor.. >:(
Get your self a Merkur air condition mount. This is a direct bolt on mount that only requires that a few inches of material be removed from the top of the mount. Easy fix.
Thanks, I'll be looking for one..
Taking several in for soda blasting soon.
Waiting on a couple more to arrive from the States.
Will try & remember to take before/after pictures.
Use allen head pipe plugs to plug the holes. You can tap the EGR spacer for a plug as well if still using it with no valve on it. The existent threads for the pipe are a bastard thread that will be virtually impossible to find a plug for.
Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on April 09, 2014, 09:47:13 AM
I tell ya, that alternator on the drivers side makes it a real PITA trying to work on the distributor.. >:(
Agreed! And if you try to leave the alt in place, you can be sure that the 'perfect' screwdriver you bought to adjust your points will be MIA. Every time. lol
For that matter, it's hard to get to the bolts for the upper alt mount with the distributor in place, at least on a 2.0...
Glad I converted to electronic ignition! It's awesome so far, the car runs the same, every time you start it.
I was considering finding a set of brackets from a non-AC 2.0, but not sure if the re-wiring is really worth the effort.
Quote from: jeremysdad on April 09, 2014, 06:54:38 PM
Agreed! And if you try to leave the alt in place, you can be sure that the 'perfect' screwdriver you bought to adjust your points will be MIA. Every time. lol
For that matter, it's hard to get to the bolts for the upper alt mount with the distributor in place, at least on a 2.0...
Glad I converted to electronic ignition! It's awesome so far, the car runs the same, every time you start it.
I was considering finding a set of brackets from a non-AC 2.0, but not sure if the re-wiring is really worth the effort.
I hear that,lol, I converted to electronic too but I need to play with the curve and I don't want to deal with that alternator, wiring is a piece a cake just extend it across the front to the other side, way easier than dealing with that alternator,lol..
If your going to move the alternator, it would be a good idea to go to a later model Mustang alternator with an internal regulator and more amps. That's what I'm doing on my 80 Pinto (boy racer). Same fit and easyer to wire.
Very good idea never thought about that, thanks..