Well, if anyone is interested and has a compressor, I picked up this one ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=131129784894&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
Looks like it will do the job on the rust spots I have as well as the bumpers and hood scope. This is for a Maverick, so not certain this should be here. If not let me know, but I think this is an inexpensive solution to a problem many of us may have. I, so you understand, have a problem paying someone $1,000 for about an hour of work and $50.00 to $100.00 of material. So here it is, to get those spots you can't grind down!
If anyone is interested, I'll report on how it does with the rust and plastics when I get there. Honestly, I think this will help a lot on interiors!
I'm interested, if it works it would be good for small spots, let us know how it works.
PS: Make sure your air is filtered good you don't want water in the media..
I've got a filter on my paint gun, maybe use that one?
I have a pressure blaster that holds 50 pounds of sand. This would be good when you only need it for a few minutes work.
I have a Sunbeam Tiger so I have more sand blasting experience than I care to know. If there are three things you should have they are:
1. A quality mask and eye protection. The silica particles are hazardous to your health.
2. A compressor with at least 90 PSI and lots of volume (probably at least 50 gallons). I have a 120 PSI, 60 gallon and there are times I will still wait for the pressure to build back up.
3. Dry air. I have used the large pressurized canister type from Harbor Freight, the smaller - screw on canister type, and the siphon type. With each of them moisture gets into the air/sand junction and clogs it up.
Also, don't be cheap like me and use "general" sand (and then reuse it). Using an appropriate sized sand (once) will give you the best results.
The bag capacity seems to be on the small side, but if you have a small compressor refilling might sync up with building pressure in the compressor. From the pictures in your other post the rust didn't seem too severe. Hope it all works out for you.
As he says, and my bad I didn't mention filtering air to your lungs as well. Most of my experience is in glass beading booths which self contain the blasting media. Like he says with media, it pulverizes on use and reuse not as good a result. Glass though fractures in smaller sharp edges, it can be used longer. Past a point though ALL media breaks down to be dust. The more trash you remove off parts the more you pollute your media as well and result drops off. Best to grossly clean part to remove easy-to-come-off stuff then blast to get off hard stuff.
That gun will work (I've had like 3 of them) but expect high wear at the actual nozzle inside, they wear pretty fast. And you need lots of air VOLUME at the 100 psi he says. That usually means a pretty good size compressor. You can easily drop the bag to just extend a big plastic hose into a free standing bucket. I mod separately to rig a small pressure line with valve to the bucket itself, the outlet ends right at the inlet for the hose. The media sometimes crams up solid around inlet and clogs, a slight amount of air disturbing things there can stir up the media enough to keep it flowing well. The moisture thing he mentions...................
PROTECT THOSE EYES AND NOSE, this stuff works like gangbusters if worked out right, you will have it EVERYWHERE. I used to blast in a big room at a heat exchanger shop, blasting 30 foot long exchanger outside shells. You worn an entire suit with piped air to it. The blast media was like welding slag broken up into very small bits, it left a gritty pattern that they loved on the shells. Instantly removed even the hardest glassy flux remains from welding. Would eat to the bone if you shot your hand for five-ten seconds. The gun had like 1 inch outlet and you held it like a cannon. It had a lot of force kicking back.
I'm building my own glass beading cabinet, about 80% finished now, a cheap $110 Chinese kit but with some custom mods to bring up the efficiency to match the expensive $2K-$4K models. Big enough to get car heads in it.
Quote from: Pinto5.0 on March 02, 2014, 07:31:51 PM
I have a pressure blaster that holds 50 pounds of sand. This would be good when you only need it for a few minutes work.
Just some of those small spot!
Quote from: Wittsend on March 02, 2014, 10:09:14 PM
I have a Sunbeam Tiger so I have more sand blasting experience than I care to know. If there are three things you should have they are:
1. A quality mask and eye protection. The silica particles are hazardous to your health.
2. A compressor with at least 90 PSI and lots of volume (probably at least 50 gallons). I have a 120 PSI, 60 gallon and there are times I will still wait for the pressure to build back up.
3. Dry air. I have used the large pressurized canister type from Harbor Freight, the smaller - screw on canister type, and the siphon type. With each of them moisture gets into the air/sand junction and clogs it up.
Also, don't be cheap like me and use "general" sand (and then reuse it). Using an appropriate sized sand (once) will give you the best results.
The bag capacity seems to be on the small side, but if you have a small compressor refilling might sync up with building pressure in the compressor. From the pictures in your other post the rust didn't seem too severe. Hope it all works out for you.
I have a 30 gallon tank, maybe it will do what I need, we'll see. I'm doing really really small stuff and I have canisters for drying the air I use. I use a good 3m mask with dual filters since I spray a lot of lacquer primer. Good eye stuff for grinding also :)
For small stuff and short periods of time it should work, but for anything big you pretty much need a two stage compressor, I have a 60gal and it'll run contiguously and barely keep up on bigger jobs.
I was painting with a 20 gallon without a problem. I'm doing very very small spots of rust on the car :) This should do it!
Yeah, but blasting takes way more volume than painting, should be ok for just small stuff with short bursts.
The other thing is cover EVERYTHING and you will still find sand months later. I shook, pounded (well, tapped on), swept and vacuumed my Tiger like my mom use to clean the house. But every now and then sand will trickle out of somewhere.
From your pictures the area looked small. I think you will be initially pleased that the rust blasts off quickly, but as the pressure drops (I'll guess within 10-20 seconds) you may have to wait a few minutes for the compressor to build pressure again. So, patience will be another "tool" to getting this work done.
BTW, have you tried Phosphoric Acid? It comes in quarts (about $8-$12), brushes on and chemically removes rust. Again, it is a patience process. You brush it on, then go back and reapply (hopefully before it is completely dry). It can take days to get all the rust, but the application time is pretty fast. It also leaves a coating that helps (doesn't prevent) rust from reforming.
I'd avoid Navy Jelly and rust transformer products. They seem to make the rust able to paint over, but underneath you have rust scale between the paint and the metal.
Yeah, the areas are really small so I think blasting them will do it nicely :)
Like they say, blasting uses 10X the air spraying paint does. You have to have BOTH the pressure AND volume there. One or the other won't get it and why you have to sometimes fiddle with your setup. Or wait for the pressure to come back up. Get it though and the results are quite awesome. You will rip through more sand than you think.
These are just some small spots here and there. I'm patient on my cars :D
Wittsend where are you finding phosphoric acid now days? I looked high and low about a year ago and could not find any at all. I really wanted 5 gallons or so. I used to mix it with water in a vat and drop the parts in. Since it will not hurt good metal you could come back in a few days and have nice clean metal to start your work on. Of couse some times I would also have swiss cheese panels if the rust was too bad but at least the rust was gone.
A couple observations to add.
That painting compressor air filter will probably restrict the air flow too much for sand blasting. If you start getting moisture carry over, a box fan aimed at the compressor tank will help keep it cool to condense the moisture there.
I was doing a few 1/8" diameter rust spots in the middle of the hood and roof that would not sand out. The sand baster removed the rust but raised the metal in those spots. I hammered the bumps down and filled the resulting depressions. A auto body person may know how to avoid this and/or fix it properly. Only had this problem on large flat surfaces.
Ouch, these are on rear quarters and some on the doors, just some small spots I need to get. I guess I'll get them and try to be careful.
I haven't bought Phosphoric Acid generically, but it is an ingredient in a lot of the metal preps available at HD, Lowe's etc. Maybe they no longer sell it??? Frankly for a number of years now I get all that kind of stuff from the "Free" reuse table at the cities monthly Toxic Drop-off Day. I get anywhere from $150-$300 retail priced produces there each month.
There is also the Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash) that gets mixed with water in a bucket. You have an attracting piece of iron and your part. You hook them to a battery charger (using the correct polarity) and the rust transfers from the part to the attracting iron. Haven't done that yet, but I hear it works decently.
Yes I have used that method and it does work. Have cleaned out several gas tanks with good results. Did the bottoms of the doors and the lift gate (door) of the 74 I am restoring. It is a slow process and you do need to keep the battery charged but the results are great on cost is nothing. And nothing to harm the enviroment either.
We used to use the acid in printing, maybe printer's supply? I used to etch image off plates with it all the time.