AMF!!!
Tony, FYI. please use a -3 feed line ( -4 is to large) and a minimum 1/2 ID drain line, better yet 5/8 ID.
#4 is 1/4 inch. every (1) = 1/16 so 1=1/16 2 =2/16 , 3=3/16. 4=4/16 or 1/4
( ID) and so on. The reason you want -3 is that -4 sends to much volume at (x) pressure into the turbo. being that its a gravity drain system, under rpm your pumping to much into the turbo than it can drain and it will start leaking past the rear seal ( believe me, this just happened to my car). I went from a -4 to a -3 feed and a 1/2 ID fitting with a 5/8 ID drain line. Probblem solved. This system is also recomended by both Turbo City and Turbonetics. BTW brake lines are usualy
-3.
Thanks for the kind words Tony, and thanks for all the "SHINEY" turbo stuff your going to use...................... ;D ;)
Hey Tony, Looks like the block was machined. I hope they remembered to re-install the two oil galley plugs in the front and the ball bearing plug in the rear......................................... :o :o :'( :'( :-\ :o
Yeah, and if the did the rear they "probably" did the front. There are three holes in the front, a 9/16 a 7/16 and a 1/2". the 1/2 is the drain located about 1/4" from the bottom and to the left of the Axillary shaft. The 9/16 is at the bottom of the AX shaft and the 7/16 is located to the left and 1/4" down from the left screw that holds the Ax shaft "keeper" in place.Don't worry, I'm sure you will spin up the new motor with a drill through the Distributor drive shaft to " pre oil" the motor. At that time you can check to see if you have oil pressure. If you don't, than chances are either of the 2 galley plugs are loose or not there. BTW, I usually put the oil feed line "at" the turbo in a can and spin the motor until I get oil out of the line, then install the line to the turbo and spin it again. I also use about a ton of break in lube on the cam etc and a can of break in oil additive to the oil on new engines.
Ya know.... I'm beginning to REALLY dislike you guys & all your SHINEY stuff!! LOL
Me? I'm still just DRIVING my Pinto... very UNshiney I know, but WAY more fun than workin on it LOL
Actually Pintony, I can't wait to see what you, Brad & Jeff are up to. Each of you has daken a slightly different path, but all are usung the same means.
Now if I can just hit the lottery ....... OOOOOHHH AAAAAHHHH ... sorry daydreaming there LOL. Lets just say that if I EVER get it to do it you can see what a Pinto would look like crossed with a MII King Cobra!
me.....i aint up to nothing ??? By the way, can someone give me a hand unloading this V10 from the back of my truck, it needs to be put on the engine stand... ;D
Pintony,
The cam lube and other assembly lubes can supposedly clog and oil filter within 30 minutes of running, so most builders recommend changing the oil after you do the initial cam break in. Who knows if it's true, but I'm not willing to find out! :P
Quote from: kris kincaid on June 16, 2005, 05:33:18 PM
Pintony,
The cam lube and other assembly lubes can supposedly clog and oil filter within 30 minutes of running, so most builders recommend changing the oil after you do the initial cam break in. Who knows if it's true, but I'm not willing to find out! :P
On the other hand rebuilding a motor becouse you skimped on the assy lube aint to cool either. FYI, I usa a ton of assy lube on everything. After the brake in I pulled a rod cap and had the valve cover off to re-torque the head. It all looked verry nice. I do, however drain the oil and throw away the filter after 20-30 min of brake in. I also raise the front end up so the pan bottom slopes toward the drain and I leave it drip dry over night.
Brad, I agree with you 100%. I'm not willing to run the engine longer than 30 minutes without changing the break-in oil to see if the filter will clog up. :)
First a coat of self etching primer and then a coat of 2-part Epoxy primer from NASON.
This photo is after the first light coat of self etching primer.
I'll wait 15 minuets and then add a second coat.
Then a nice coat of epoxy primer to seal the block.
From Pintony
Quote from: Pintony on June 16, 2005, 09:58:10 PM
Hey Brad,
You must have the only rear sump Pinto on the planet if your raising the front of the car to drain the oil. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
From Pintony
OH maybe you have a Cortina????
Tony, although the sump is in the front, the drain plug is in the rear ( of the sump). Thats what I ment........................ ;D
What does it say about us when we see a turbo 2.0 & wax nostalgic? (especially such a SHINEY one) I look at that & say... I remember those from "back in the day"
Hey Tony, you might want to cut the hole for the oil pickup tube a little larger. The only way you will be able to get the pan off with the engine still in the car ( with your current setup ) is to reach between the pan and the block and loosen the pickup tube bolts while the pan is hitting the cross member ( Remember my dilemma) .............. :o
V10?
YEa BaBy!
looks good.....but it's awefull short! ;D
Wow! You sure do some nice work. Hang on!!!!!!
Hey Tony, looking good................ ;D
Wow!!!! I am impressed. What a sweet job you are doing. anad that's no zoop.
your car is awesome tony. got any more pics of it?
Great work man!!
Thanks for the pics of the downpipe, that is on my list of "to make" items once the engine is in.
I must ask, where do you get all these wonderful toys ?
hey pintony,
after it dries id coat the rest of the cork with thin layer of silicone then let that dry. Viola! silicone gasket!
It worked for me.
Good luck
Congrads Tony!
I would not use Centerforce clutches for even a door stop. In all my cars I use ACT clutch setups. If you ever get around to them they just rock. I have had one behind my 600+ hp Supra for awhile with no issues at all. I have also used there stuff in some stock applications and have never been disappointed. When are you going to post some finished pictures.
Jake
I'm not tired of it. Toss them up.
Act clutches is at http://www.advancedclutch.com/. They have a fantastic tech support crew. So you can call them up tell them what you are doinf and they will ask you a couple of questions then give you the part numbers. You can then call www.horsepowerfreaks.com and give them the numbers. If they don't have them in the system they will add them (usually takes a couple of days) and you are good to go.
Jake
AH CRAP! I just called them myself. It never occured to me that they might not have one for a SVO mustang. That just seemed natural. I have a buddy that races Merkurs and has a pretty hot street car. I can ask him what he uses.
Jake
Got it now! It looks like ZOOM clutches is the double throw down clutch source http://www.zoomclutch.com/. They have a good reputation and I have never used anything from them in my car (although it looks like that is about to change) I know poeple that have. J.C. Whitney oddly enough is a dealer so pricing should be pretty good.
Jake
I just heard back from one of my Merkur buddies. Another good source is SPEC clutch http://www.specclutch.com/. Also :
Gold Star Racing Clutches
336 East Gutierrez Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93101
(805) 962-9140
Specializes in turbo 4 cylinders and can custom build clutches and flywheels.
Jake
SWEET! Nice to see your back. I had a buddy out from Texas that had actually gone to the Knott's show and I did not know that. He had no idea I had a Pinto until I showed him and then he proceeded to tell me about this wild purple Pinto that was there that blew him away. He was happy to know I was into them becuase he was afraid to really mention it to him.
Some of my buddies really crack me up.
Jake