I'm looking for a set of piston rings for Brownie's 4cyl 2.0L motor. I want to take the head off and swap it out for the one I have in storage which will have new valve stem seals and what not.
Any ideas where I can locate a set?
Ebay has plenty of listings. 599 is usually the part#. I bought my last set of pistons from NAPA...they might carry the rings too.
http://www.carjunky.com/partstore/parts.php?N=10402+4294959647+1616
Might be on the above site ? I've never bought anything from them.....yet.
Try Ross Pistons or Total Seal rings
Hey Dave, ebay has both from time to time, cast Iron and Chrome, if your block is in shape I'd use a set of NOS Chrome rings, if the block has
tapper in the bores, use the cast Iron rings
One more question...
I'm trying to figure something out with Brownie. Under load or after driving for an hour or so, she starts to smoke.
Under load, she smokes badly. I've been thinking it's the rear transmission seal, allowing fluid to get onto the yoke, then the yoke slinging it onto the exhaust. Now I am thinking otherwise.
It's been awhile since I did a compression check, but last time I did it came out fine, so I wasn't thinking it was the rings.
I know the head needs new valve guide seals, and I plan to swap out the head with a spare I have next summer, and I figure I might as well do the piston rings while I have the head off.
Can the rings be changed with the motor still in the car, or do I need to yank it out?
Quote from: dave1987 on October 15, 2011, 03:38:31 AM
One more question...
Can the rings be changed with the motor still in the car, or do I need to yank it out?
this can be done with the motor in the car. you will spend a lot of time on a creeper but it can be done.
"....on a 2.0 (
71 or 72 -not sure about 73) remove the top nut from the motor mounts and jack up the motor so that it sits on top of the motor mount studs.
remove all the pan bolts and separate the pan from the block.
using the correct tool & a 3/8" drive ratchet, remove the oil pump bolts & drop the pump into the sump of the pan. (don't forget to keep track of the oil pump/distributor drive hex shaft-it MAY fall out & into the pan)
once the oil pump has been dropped the pan will slide out toward the front without too much trouble..."
once you have the pan off (as well as the cylinder head), you will have access to the connecting rod bolts & after removing them & setting them aside in the order removed, you will have to push the piston / rod assembly up & out the top of the block.
this is a lot of work. it ain't easy. but in the absence of an engine hoist it can (i became an expert) be done
you have a lot of work to do!!!
Dave here's a couple sets of rings: http://cgi.ebay.com/Ford-2-0-Liter-2000cc-122ci-1971-74-Pinto-cast-rings-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item4cfa84029e&item=330620469918&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr (http://cgi.ebay.com/Ford-2-0-Liter-2000cc-122ci-1971-74-Pinto-cast-rings-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item4cfa84029e&item=330620469918&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr)
http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-2000-CC-ENGINE-STD-SIZE-PISTON-RING-SET-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item19ad98dff8&item=110286659576&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr (http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-2000-CC-ENGINE-STD-SIZE-PISTON-RING-SET-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item19ad98dff8&item=110286659576&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr)
as fas as re-ringing the engine, I'd just yank the engine out, are you wanting to re-use the orig. engine or are you willing to swap in another rebuilt 2.0? we could do the job in one day in at my house...
So I got the rings, as well as all of the gaskets for the bottom end in today, should be able to start the rebuild soon...I hope! It may wait a few months until we move into my parent's house where I will have the garage available 24/7.
I have a question about doing the rings in the car (should it turn out they need replacing)
Do I need to remove the trans as well or is there enough room between the firewall and the bell to allow the motor to sit on the mounts with the transmission attached?
Why not just pull the entire engine...it's a real pain in the butt tryin to rebuild an engine while it's in the car.
No stand or hoist at this time.
That does raise a question of interest though.
How much does a bare 2.0 block, or even a 2.0 block and crankshaft only, weigh in at? Possible to strip a 2.0 and only leave the crank on the block and yank it out without a hoist?
I know for sure I am pulling the head off the motor with it still in the car, that's easy. However, should the cylinders or pistons show bad wear, I will be stripping out the cylinders for work as well.
The engine has 93k original miles on it, and I am not really counting on there being any significant damage. The primary part of me pulling the motor apart right now is to swap the head out for a reconditioned one, and replace the head gasket to see if my smoking under acceleration stops.
If you had nothing more than the block with pistons and no head in the car, 2 guys can pick it out of the engine bay. Been there done that. I've used good strong tables to build engines on before. Let me ask you this, you say the engine smokes under acceleration, how do the plugs look? Do they have a lot of carbon buildup on them or are they oily? If you have carbon then the oil is being sucked past the valve guides and mixing with the fuel and burning. If they are oily then the rings are bad. With bad rings the oil doesn't have a chance to mix with the fuel very well and will foul the plug. Now if the guide is bad enough it could draw enough oil to foul the plug.
It has been awhile since i checked. I will check tomorrow afternoon and report back.
Starting a new thread about this, linking to this thread and another.