I'm putting together a 2.3 for a project. This project stalled 6 years ago when I dropped my 77 2.3 motor off to be built. I still haven't gotten it back (bad story). I'm trying to get my old motor back but the builder is avoiding me. I just bought another motor. It is just a block and head. Forged pistons .030 over. The head looks to be pocket ported and polished. I need to put together a complete engine. I am lost on a few things....
Engine: Code D_EE 6015-BA This block has no year stamp. Not sure why there is no year stamp? From research is it a 76-80 pinto block? The builder used 1974 rods, and a 1986 crankshaft, curious what kind of power the rods and crank will take..
Cam: There is a threaded hole in the rear of the cam. What goes in there and what year engines have whatever goes in there?
Oil Pan: The new motor has a E69E oil pan (86 ranger). WIth a 77 block and a 86 pan, oil pickup seems correct for the pan I have, what year/vehicle dipstick will work? There is a threaded boss in the side of the oil pan, any ideas what that is for?
Head: Code E69E. Has roller cam and rockers. What plugs should I start with for this set up?
I'm really trying to get all the parts I need. I have some parts from the original motor I dropped off brackets etc. Unfortunately I gave the builder all the hardware and will start scrounging what I can...I am also missing one the timing pulleys and the cank timing gear..
I'm also interested in estimated power. The pistons are flat topped. The head doesn't look like it was milled. Intake I have is a FI lower with a holley 500cfm. I'll swap to smaller jets as needed. Exhaust is an open header.... I realize there are a ton a variables but just a rough guess on HP would be great.
Thatnks for any help!
A lot of questions. The links below should answer some of them. As always do not take any info as gospel.
engine:
- According to the first link, the 76-80 block is designed with a 2 piece rear main seal while the 86 crank is designed for the one piece seal. The 86 crank is missing a oil slinger ring of earlier cranks and may lead to more leakage.
- From the TurboFord forum, there were mixed statements that very early 2.3 rods without oil squirter holes caused problems and were recalled. So check your rods for the holes.
- From readings, the crank and rods should be good for at least 300hp assuming reasonable rpm, no flaws, and a good tune. The rods would be the weaker link and at about the 400hp level should be replaced with after market for reliability.
cam: No experience, but suspect a pipe plug is needed. Also use sealer on the cam pulley bolt.
oil pan: I believe the 74-80 Pinto was the only front sump design. If correct, you need a Pinto pan, pick up, and dip stick. The "threaded boss" was probably for a oil level switch or somebody added a fitting for a temperature sender.
head: Per the links, the E69E head is from a 87-88 Ranger.
At top center of page, click on "back 2 basics sheet" for 2.3 info.
http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/c=DpjNgSR0O7hiADanWrUoCNXi8/category/techinicalinformation/ (http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/c=DpjNgSR0O7hiADanWrUoCNXi8/category/techinicalinformation/)
http://www.boportforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=generaltech&action=display&thread=8 (http://www.boportforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=generaltech&action=display&thread=8)
Have fun with the project.
Hey thanks for the info. I have gotten lots sorted out and started assembly of the engine. I do one more question..
1. There are 2 threaded holes behind the timing inner cover (and the rear of the engine also). What are these called and used for? The engines later engines in our yard have some kind of socket set screws and the earlier pinto engines have allen head set screws in them. I can't get any out of any of the motors (I could get them out if it really came to it...but I really should buy new ones). I need new ones and not sure what size or what the proper name is....