In the 80's a friend had a V8 pinto with a 4speed. It was a nice clean car and ever since I have wanted to build or buy one. I'm one step closer now :)
I picked up a 71 Pinto project that someone started to build. They put ladder bars, sub frame connectors, a cage and narrowed 9" in it. It's a bit of a mess right now...
I'm thinking of puting a 2"x3" front clip in it as well. If I front cliped it then in theory I could put the frame rails a bit farther apart to make room for headers etc. Chris Alston Chassis works makes kits that the frame width and hub width can be changed during install.
Any thoughts from those who may have gone this route before? Any pictures you could share?
Fozzy,
The Chris Alston Chassis Works parts are very nice. I have them in my car. Me and a friend did mine 5 or 6 years ago. We just worked on it on weekends. It took 6 weeks from the time we rolled it into the garage until it was sitting back on the ground with the new clip and suspension. It took a further 9 months to do all the small details: seat mounts, belt mounts, pedal mounts, mounting fenders, grill, radiator, bumper, etc. It is definitely a big project.
Here are some pictures of the process. If you have any other questions just ask.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0038.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0044.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0071.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0069.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0115.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0074.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0092.jpg)
Craig
WOW< that creates a full frame doesnt it? Does it also allow for a altered motr settingto sit more towards the passenger compartment for wieght distribution of the motr. Or on the flip site of the note, can they make the front suspension more forward for the same reason? See, I know I have heard and read of the heavy front end with a v8 swap because of too much wieght on the front suspension as well as too far forward. Thanks.
Yes, it creates a full frame. As you can see in the pictures I posted, I cut the cowl out of my car and moved the firewall back 8 inches. What most people don't notice is that the wheel base has been altered also. A 71 Pinto comes from Ford with a 94" wheelbase, my car is now 102". The nice thing about my changes and the Chris Alston frame is there is no cross member under the oil pan. I could pull the pan and check bearings without removing the engine from the car. I only ran 350 pound front springs with 408W in the pictures, and 90 pound rear springs.
Craig
Without seeing a side shot, I could not tell the suspension has been altered. The 102 was close to the minmum they used on olt altered frames. Average IIRC was about 115-120. Wich the latter is close to a flopper chassis length. Ive always wanted to know what the old, what was it, Glidden flopper was for a wheel base as it appeared as though the front wheels were moved forward. I personally think if the front wheels were moved forward 6-10 inches, it would help the lines flow better. Esp. if one was to do gound effects that were to run continuesly around the front into the chin spoiler. Just out of curiosity, knowing its not cheap. What did that frame set up run ya? Thanks.
Your right I didn't post any side shots in this thread. Even when I have in the past most people haven't noticed. If I remember right the parts I bought from Chris Alston were around $2000 with shipping (frame kit, upper and lower a-arms, ball joints, aluminum firewall, floor, and trans tunnel. Another $1000 for Koni coil overs, and Wilwood brakes. By reusing a stock rack and spindles that would get you a basic roller. All the small misc parts add up fast though, pedal assembly, master cylinders, aluminum radiator, fan, header kit, grade 8 hardware, tabs, brackets, wiring, connectors, etc.
Fozzy: One nice thing about the tube front clip is it makes headers easy. Stahl makes a nice pro gas kit with all the tubes are pre-bent. All you have to do is cut them to length at the header flange and collector end, and weld.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0182a.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto%20tube%20front%20clip/IMG_0130a.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll241/cfb289/Pinto016.jpg)
Craig
I can tell that it is altered. Not a whole lot though, what is it, about 8" maybe? Makes the front curve look better! I love the use of the tear drop on there! Classic touch indead! Are those prowelds? I love the look of that beats! Overall cost is more then I would want to spend. But the cost of the frame is not bad at all! Thanks.
That's awesome Chris, thanks for posting the pictures!!
The Chris Alston Chassis works parts is going to be the route I go.
The car I bought has at one point already had a small block in it although I just bought the rolling chassis. The firewall has been beat back and is a mess, the rear floor tin has been cut out for wheel tubs.
I haven't started doing anything to it yet just looking at options and measuring. The plasma cutter is eagerly waiting but just need to decide how far I'll set the motor back.
I like the headers that you have on your car, very nice. I'll be checking into that Stahl company for sure..
In one of your pictures I see a TH400 sitting on the jack sideways, did you have that mated to the Ford motor?
Tinkerman: Yes 8" was added to the front end. Before the teardrop I had a Boss 429 hood scope on the car, but with the engine setback it looked out of place. The teardrop being a lot longer helps camouflage the lengthened front end. The welds were done by a friend, he is an electrician by trade. Obviously he is very good at welding, but doesn't do it for a living. The welding machine we used is a Hobart Handler 180 wire machine ($600 at Tractor Supply), nothing exotic.
Fozzy: Yes the TH400 in the pictures was mated to the SBF I had in the car. It is not a standard TH400 though. It is actually a clutch turbo. The front of it has been cut off, and it uses a clutch instead of a torque converter. In the picture it has a SBF Lakewood scatter shield on the front. It uses a 3 finger long style clutch. A special bronze spider engages the clutch fingers and drives the front pump in the transmission. The clutch is only used to leave a stop, it is not used when shifting. I no longer have the clutch turbo in the car. I replaced it with a more normal TH400 with a JW Ultrabell, and a 9.5" torque converter.
Craig
Boy, I am preyyu dang good! Dont tell the wife though, shell go around all day complaining about my swelled head! LOL. I do like it, but if I was to ever go that route I might opt for 9 or ten just to blend in the front curvature slightly more? I would have to get a model body and do it to that to see and calculate how much I would want before I started cutting metal! LOL. I do love yours though for sure! I just wonder if I could cross breed traditional with gasser and hot rod? LOL. Slight tub for white walled slicks and straight axel in the front? ROFLMBO. That would look wierd and maybe even cartoonish! LOL. Anyways..... back to my corner. LOL.
Looks like I might be putting in a 98 Ford Explorer 5.0 to start with. I came across a parts Explorer for $500. Hmm roller cam and decent flowing heads for a stock motor. Now I just need to find either a wrecked 5.0 5spd mustang or a C-4 core, still havn't decided if I want to go auto or stick. A C-4 with trans brake would be better at the track but a 5spd would be more street fun