I"ve 1973 year model Pinto with the two liter engine. I'd just turned 18 in the Army when i bought it. I'm fifty now, and it has over three hundred thousand miles on it. I'm trying to make it run again, but i had to virtually destroy the starter switch on the column to free it up to tow. Now, it will start but won't keep running once the remote switch is disengaged. It has fuel, but i don't think it has fire. If I had a diagram with colors, i believe i could figure this out. My dad suggested i junk it, but he and i both will be smoking in hell before that happens. If i could get fire to the engine once the starter is released, it would run like a champ. Can anyone help me with this?Â
tedbohne
N96173@msn.com
OK, the hell part I got, but I need more details on what you did to the car.
What exactly did you do when you towed it? Did you loose the key and have to pop the colum? If so, it might be more of a mechanical problem than electrical. All of my Pinto experience has been with 77 or later, but knowing Ford, yours might be about the same. On top of the colum, under the dash, is the electrical switch part of the ignition. The lock is just that, a lock, and it drives a shaft down to the swich itself. If you damaged the lock, the shaft might be in the wrong position. The switch has two power feeds to the coil, one for "start" and one for "run", and depending where you hot wire the starter, will give you power or not. Will it fire, or just crank? You can remove the shaft from the switch, and use a screwdriver to start the car.
Again, all I have ever worked on is 77's or newer. Any comments from the earlier owners?
BTW: Welcome.
Bill
I have a '71 factory manual, but it does not have wiring diagrams in it. You probably already know the following, but just in case:
The key switch isn't the actual ignition switch. The actual switch is attached to the top of the column at the brake support bracket. It is actuated by a rod from the key switch. The diagram in the manual shows a short length of wiring harness from the switch that ends in a plug. Assuming you're a contortionist and have access, you should be able to pull that plug and test the key switch/iginition switch assembly.
Something else to consider is the restistor wire to the points. It's purpose is to step down the voltage during normal operations to make the points last longer. However, it is bypassed during the start mode to promote better starting. My manual has a diagnosis procedure, but it's not clear how to hook up the volt meter. Here's what it says:
1. Hook up the voltmeter as in the attached figure. Maybe you can figure out what the positive lead is connected to, distributor wiring harness maybe?
2. Ground the Distributor side of the coil.
3. Turn off all accessories and lights.
4. Turn the ignition switch on.
5. If the voltabe is between 6.6 and 4.5, the resistance wire is good.
6. If it's higher or lower, replace the resistance wire.
There's a long process involved in replacing the resistance wire, and it involves using the factory service parts. See the attachment in my next post. If you can't read it, let me know and I'll email you a higher res version.
Second Pic