Hey all:
Got my engine compartment covered after much toil and prep. Here's what I did and what I need help with. I loaded spray cans with factory matched enamel, perhaps not the best process, but easier to manage (IMHO) than a gun. Sadly, not the best results - adequate, but that's why I am here asking:
Issue #1: Overspray - how does one remove the overspray from adjacent panels? There are areas that feel "rough" to the touch, and I know it's overspray, not surface prep. How to tackle?
Issue #2: Lack of gloss - I suspect perhaps that the paint was not well suited for spray cans, being a metallic, or perhaps it was conditions (spraying in very hot weather). The final coat is shiny, but NOT "super shiny" as I would have expected. Can enamel be sanded with a fine paper and then rubbed out/polished for better gloss?
Any inputs appreciated, not overly disappointed with the results, but I would have liked it to turn out better. Just don't know what to do with the enamel - lacquer is a no-brainer. THANKS!
Chris
Hi, I'm going to try and help you out here. The overspray you can try a cut polish, I like the Meguir's #9 as it is paint friendly and works well, what I am saying is that you need something with abrasives to remove the overspray from a finished surface and something that is not going to cut too deep into your existing paint, if it is paint that the overspray is on?
Lack of gloss, I have never had a can loaded with paint but I believe it would be impossible for them to add the harder as it would "kick" in the can. So saying that the spray bomb paint would not shine up as well as if it was mixed properly as the hardeners and reducers slow the paint process to keep the shine. You could grab yourself a can of clear, not laquer or it will eat through it, but a urathane or enamel and spray over it. You can gently water sand metallics, using a 800 or more wet and dry before you clear over it. Hope this helps.
Angie
Thanks for the guidance. Yes, it is paint with overspray on it. I will also use a fine grit paper as you suggest, not sure if I will add another coat of clear or not.
Anyone else?
CHris
overspray , try a clay bar or a little polishing compound. since most of this stuff really takes from days to months to really finish solvent letting and curing you could also use a quick wipe with an appropriate thinner followed by soap and water to prevent it from eating the paint below with a really good probability of success and without altering the shine of the original finish causing you to polish the whole car.. try your thinner on some factory paint where you can hide it first if it does dull or affect it.
lack of gloss is a couple of things. 1. if it was overly warm and it dries to fast that can cause issues. 2 metallics are tough to start with and you are using bombs they tend to be stripey so you have to "fog" the final coat for consistency which causes dry spray and can kill the shine. really my suggestion on that front if it looks nice and even in terms of coverage and isn't over 48 hours old would be to tack rag it and cover it with a compatible clear. if its older a quick scuff with red scotchbrite pad and then clear.
if you own a compressor buy a cheap gun. you can then use 2 part paints and most importantly use temperature appropriate reducers. plus it is way way way cheaper by the quart or gallon vs spray can. its enamel so even a tremclad clear would do the dew.
honestly clear fixes all. i just sprayed a single stage satin that damn near drove me over the edge. different shine every time the weather changed, stripey infuriating shizod . never ever ever again. would have solved the problem with a clear myself but noooo.... i was spraying for the effect and had to stay with a single stage
good luck. hope it works out for ya
OhSix'
Thanks OhSix and Starsky 78. I sure wish more folks would have chimed in but this is helpful.
I went by the paint store this morning and they explained to me that the enamel loaded in spray cans had no hardener added, so it would take longer to harden. They also sold me a "clay bar" to remove overspray.
I will let the paint cure for another week before I do anything, I'll probably hit it with the clay bar and polishing compound, maybe even go for clearing it. Thanks again.
Chris
plz note i have never painted a hole car (other than w/ spray cans) but i have done a tone of matching w/spray cans and i hafta say i would stay away from clear if u can make it a last attempt u bout paint from a auto paint store that put into a can custom for u? i have fond that the dupli-colors sold @ shucks often works better if u match the paint code in there book and door of ur car i would use some 1500+ wet sand and some patients less is more when working with metallic as the more u sand the lighter it will get then use some polish to make it shine if it is to light some collar back polish if u can find it to match ur collar (what collar are we working with here?)
like i said im am not a pro hear most of the time im doing this to car im trying to flip about 90% of the time im happy with how it comes out some time i end up repainting the hole thing with a different brand of paint if u go this rout sand it with some 800grit and prim this some time is the bet way to go. then beat ur head against it of 30hrs for a fender
can we get some pic?
Chris,
Any of the suggestions which have already been offered should take care of your overspray problem. The main thing is to be patient and don't rush it... considering the restoration you're doing, I think you have that concept down pat!
Rattle cans (and I have definitely used them, both OTC and custom-matched) are convenient, but you are a bit more limited with them than you are with a spray gun. The biggest problem most people experience however, is technique. There is a knack to getting the paint on the metal, getting adequate coverage, maintaining shine, etc. A lot of it is in the wrist action, but the speed of your sweep and the distance you maintain from the surface are all important.
So are temperature and humidity. From what you're describing, I suspect a little polishing will do the trick... if not, clearcoat is definitely an option.
I learned to paint many years ago by dragging home old body panels from the junkyard to practice on. Made a heck of a mess, but it was time well spent.
Good luck!
Dwayne :smile:
Agreed that spray cans are hard to paint with and gain the desired result. I used to two custom computer case paint jobs when I was a teen (about seven years ago to be exact). I painted three or four before attempting the paint job of my imagination. The three-four cases I did before wern't perfect, but each one got better and better.
What I learned was to take it slow and several light coats. Primer is the easy part, a few coats, sand with 600, few more coats, sand, few more coats, then paint. After about five or six light coats of paint, I would sand it down with 800 grit and do three more light coats, then sand with 1000 grit and begin to clear coat it using the same technique, but not sanding with the 1000 grit.
The results from the patience and time invested into that paint job were amazing, I couldn't believe I did it all myself! It was black and silver two-tone, the silver fading into the black from the bottom up about half way.
The paint on that case is still sticking to it, and doesn't flake and peel like other painted surfaces I have done in the past. It actually CHIPS like paint on my car does. I believe this was more a part of the proper prep (ultra clean surfaces and proper priming), and sanding between coats.