hi everyone, as you all may know i have a 2000 w/4spd trans. i recently had rebuilt. i am having a problem with a oil leak at both ends of the oil pan. i am also having a problem with the tranny leaking at both ends of the gear box (again after a rebuild). short of removing them again, is there any additives out there that i can use to stop these leaks? i just need to have them stop until winter. till i can take them out and redo them again. any help would be appreciated.
thanks, glen
rebuilds, new gaskets..... prospects are not warm and fuzzy.
the only additive I can think of is more oil.....
not what you want to hear, unless they are really small leaks, in which case the stop leak stuff might work or living with it for awhile my work for you
but a substantial leak with new gaskets? probably going to get worse too.
my two cents.
Wrong pan gaskets? I went through a heck of a time before i realized there are sometimes two types of gaskets and depending on the year of your block they can be thicker or thinner.
Also what kind of gasket are you using exactly, quality absolutely matters in this case. cork is a bad idea for most people because they over tighten them. Ultra blue or ultra grey is the way to go.
So long as it isnt your front and rear main seals, but that would be really odd to have BOTH leaking, after a rebuild. And your tranny, that just happens, if you dont tap that seal in right, its gonna leak. I had to redo one 3 times once.
As for additives... "Bar's rear main seal stop leak" is fricken awesome. It will swell up gaskets to help stop minor leaks.
Only problem with additives is that because they swell seals, they also reduce the life.
yes i am using cork. they are from fel-pro gasket sets. is there a another gasket out there other then cork that can be used? i really don't want to take the tranny out again (not right now). if it dosen't leak to bad from now till winter i will let that one go. but i really would like to get the pan gasket to stop leaking.
thanks
There was a post on here about a year ago, about hooking the oil cap hose to the intake manifold, to pull a vaccum. Do this and it will be very hard to have a leak. We've done this for years on race cars, and never a leak.
o.k. how does that work? i have a aftermarket breather cap.
also will the bar's leak stuff hurt my new piston rings?
Dont waste your money on oil additives. Ive never had one work, they are just a waste of money. A legal way to con you out of money. I no longer buy additives of any kind.
If I want to slow down an oil leak, I use 20w50 oil.
The problem with your engine is probably the fact that you didn't rebuild it yourself. (Atleast I assume you didn't since you said you had it rebuilt)
Most mechanics are paid by the job, the faster the job is done the more jobs they get to do and the more money they make. On top of that, its not THEIR engine they were working on so it doesn't get done as good as it should.
You probably need to take the oil pan off, get a new gasket, make sure everything is perfectly clean (no old gasket material, oil/grease, sealer, etc) and use plenty of gasket sealer on all sealing surfaces. Above and below the front and rear pan seals as well as above and below the gaskets along the sides of the pan. I dont tighten everything up until the sealer has had a little time to dry. Then tighten it hand tight with a socket and extension. Do not over-tighten!
But, if you are needing to put it off until winter, just use heavier oil.
no, i didn't rebuild it myself. i had the machine shop at the local napa store do it. i didn't think a heavyer oil was good for them. i know i have used it in the past, but was told then that is was not good. i know it won't brake down as fast as the thinner oils will.
as far as the gasket, i put rtv gasket sealer on both sides and waited a few days before i finished bolting them down, like you said. maybe i tightened them down too much. i will know better come winter when i do this again.
I run heavier oil in my 74 without any problems. Cranks over a little slower but it works fine. At the very least id run 10w30.
i am running 10w40 right now. a little to thin?
I'd think that would work. That should be thin (10w) when cold and thicken up when hot (40w). Which will slow down the leak.
but it does not! i have a jug of 20/50 i am going to try. if all else fails i will have to try and change out the gasket(s), and i say gaskets because it is not the cork that is leaking, it is the two rubber end gaskets that my problem is. any easy way to change them without lifting the motor out, because of the oil pump and cross member?
drop the rack and the pan will come out. I use spray adhesive on the pan and the pan side of the gasket. (including the rubber end pieces. no silicone or other sealers!!) if you let it dry for a minuet before setting the gasket it will be super sticky and will keep them from sliding around. now put a dab of silicone on the gasket where the cork meets the rubber end seals. put the pan in and go ahead and tighten it down, don't let the silicone dry and then tighten it down. on each end of the pan where the rubber end seal is, fill the groove with silicone and go about 1" over on each side where the cork gasket starts. use a high quality silicone, I use ford ultra grey, about 8 bucks a tube but worth it. :)
thanks71pintoracer, i will keep that in mind. sounds like it may not be to hard to do (again). could save alot of money on oil.
thanks for all the input guys. it all helps. glen
btw, what kind of adhesive do you use for a job like this?
I use 3M spray adhesive