Well, this isnt pinto related but I am about to start taking a sledge hammer to it so figured I would ask.
I have a 78 camaro, with a 350 cid in it. 3 times now I have had the oil pan gasket done, and all 3 times it still leaks to various degrees. And yes I know it is from the pan, i can literally see it coming from there. a drip every 5 seconds or so. The first ti me I did the gasket myself and it still leaked, so I figured I might as well pony up the cash and have someone do it that would back their work if it still leaked.
The pan is new and has no dents or warping. So I took it in to them, they replaced the pan, and the leaked stopped... in the front. But I'll be damned if it didnt start leaking like a faucet in the back of the pan. All over my header, burning smell, oil smoke, the works. So of course I take it back. Well, it took them a week to get to it again, and I got it back today. I thought there was no damn way it would leak because what mechanic wants to keep having to redo something on no profit because it was screwed up the first time.
But of course... it still leaks, from the same damn spot that it leaked when i took it to them the after the first time the did it, the back of the pan. I almost wondered if they even did anything, but my exhaust leak was gone(from the headers) so I knew they had took the header off because at least that wasnt making noise anymore.
But seriously? Did they not even start the thing up and look at it when they finished? It is not by any means a small leak, after maybe 5 minutes I have a puddle of oil under the car about 4 inches across.
And I mean, what is my recourse for this? Say i take it back and he either refuses to do it a 3rd time or does it, but it still leaks. I paid over 300 bucks to have that oil leak fixed and its actually WORSE then when it started. Can I make him give me my money back and take it somewhere else?
From my personal experience with the same SB Chevy set up, Black RTV Silicone and throw away the gaskets, use oil pan rail plates and make sure you flatten the mounting surface rails out at every bolt hole with a ball peen hammer. If it's a Chrome pan, throw it in the trash and begin again.
I just finnished a long block in a 94 4X4 truck, I used the thick 1 piece silicone gasket made sure surfaces were real clean installed with rail plates did not use any silicone tightened bolt working from center out to ends have no leaks. Fred :)
I usually use a gasket and sealer. Got to make sure the surface is totally clean and dry, absolutely no remnants of old gasket material or grease/oil on the mating surfaces.
I then apply sealer to the oil pan, (or valve cover or timing cover, whatever i'm working on) and then smear it over the entire sealing surface. Then i stick on the gasket. I use a couple of bolts to line up the holes and then allow it to dry for a lil bit while i do the exact same thing to the sealing surface on the block. (apply sealer, smear with finger) and then put the pan/gasket assembly up on the engine. Generally I do this with the engine on the stand so its not as easy when on the vehicle, but once i get the pan up there i dont tighten it down until its had some time to dry. Then just tighten the bolts hand tight with a socket and extension and then MAYBE another 1/4 turn with the ratchet. It does not need much torque. Tightening it too much is worse than under tightening, especially with a cork gasket. In fact I think the MOST important thing is to NOT overtighten the bolts.
Quote from: Fred Morgan on May 11, 2010, 10:50:48 AM
I just finnished a long block in a 94 4X4 truck, I used the thick 1 piece silicone gasket made sure surfaces were real clean installed with rail plates did not use any silicone tightened bolt working from center out to ends have no leaks. Fred :)
The 94's use a one piece rear seal setup, I believe, so that gasket may not fit. The older small blocks also use different sizes of end seals so that has to be matched up also. Some people use RTV on the gaskets which is a guaranteed to push out the gasket once installed and should only be used where the gaskets meet up with the end seals. Gluing the gaskets to the block with gasgacinch or weather stripping glue holds them in place works pretty good too. The only time I used the silcone only fix was on a friend of a brothers 383 stroker with a chrome oil pan. He tried twice in the car to fix it with gaskets until I pulled it completly and fixed it out of the car. Still holding strong and it's been about 6 or so years.