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Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: 78txpony on May 05, 2010, 11:13:59 AM

Title: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: 78txpony on May 05, 2010, 11:13:59 AM
Good idea or bad?   :lost:

I have the valve cover off my stock 2.3 to replace the valve guide seals.
I had the head off about 20 years ago to do the same thing.
This time, the head will stay on the engine.  Should I retorque?

If I should retorque, what value should I use?  I do not think it will be the installation torque in the manual...

Also what is a good way to compress the hydr. lifters without using a special tool?  I did it 20 years ago with no special tool and I remember not having any issues - just can't remember how I did it back then!   :mad:

Thanks! 
Title: Re: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: 71pintoracer on May 05, 2010, 12:29:26 PM
no need to retorque the head, as far as the lifters, don't compress them, just put a big screwdriver under the rocker arm from the lifter side and pry it off. when you put them back, put it on from the valve side and tap it onto the lifter with a small hammer.
Title: Re: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: 78txpony on May 05, 2010, 01:03:14 PM
Sounds too easy...  Is that prying them up with the cam installed or not? 
I was thinking I had to compress the lifters and remove the rockers in order to slide the cam out...   

I wish i can remember how I did it last time...
Title: Re: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: 78txpony on May 05, 2010, 09:43:44 PM
.
71PR, what you wrote made little sense to me until I actually went out and tried it.  I see exactly what you mean now and it worked great, too!

The next hardest part will be getting the valve springs off with the head still on the car.

I also need to figure out the degreeing thing...

Thanks for your experience!!
Title: Re: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: Lost Coz on May 06, 2010, 10:09:38 PM
You say you are going to remove the spings?If you are going to replace the valve stem seals, there is an easy way with the head still on.

First...Buy a screw type valve spring compressor. It fits down over the spring , has two hooks at the bottom and a knob on the top for screwing down and compressing the spring. I bought mine at NAPA.

Second...Only do one spring at a time. Pull the spark plug out of the hole you are going to do and feel a piece of nylon rope 3/8 inch into the hole. Put enough rope in the cylinder, so that when you turn the crank using a wrench on the front pully, the rope packs against the valves in the head and will hold them closed while you remove the spring. Be sure to leave a piece of the rope out of the cylinder, so you can pull it back out when you have finished both valves. While the spring is off, replace the stem seal, replace the spring and keepers, then do the other valve in that hole.

Third...Once both valves are done, pull the piece of rope from the hole, replace the plug and go to the next one and repeat the same procedure.

When you turn the crank to compress the rope against the head, you don't need to try and reef the bolt, just make it snug and don't move it again until you have completed that hole.  It will take a couple of hours to complete the task. Take your time, because if one of the valves drops into the cylinder while the spring is off, you will have to remove the head to get it out.

"Pinto's are Cool!'
Title: Re: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: 78txpony on May 09, 2010, 10:15:54 AM
Lost Coz - I ended up having to buy that valve spring compressor after all - no other rigged effort worked.  I was unaware to that type of compressor - I only knew about the C looking thing for doing it while the head was off.

I used compressed air to hold the valves shut.  The hose for my compression tester fit perfectly.  The rope method was the alternate plan I did not need.

Now the rockers (followers) will not go back in.  I will work with that today or tomorrow. 

Title: Re: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: Lost Coz on May 09, 2010, 11:43:17 AM
Good to see you got it without a major problem. If you put the cam lobe at the top, and install the follower from the spring side and then use a hammer (I use one made out of lead) to force it onto the ball. Hitting it firmly should cause it to pop over the ball and seat. It should go back on without a lot of force. Good Luck!

"Pinto's are Cool!"
Title: Re: Retorquing cylinder head?
Post by: 78txpony on May 10, 2010, 10:08:57 AM
Quote from: Lost Coz on May 09, 2010, 11:43:17 AM
Good to see you got it without a major problem. If you put the cam lobe at the top, and install the follower from the spring side and then use a hammer (I use one made out of lead) to force it onto the ball. Hitting it firmly should cause it to pop over the ball and seat. It should go back on without a lot of force.
I was doing it like that and tapping lightly with a framing hammer.  It was just bouncing, like tapping a spring.  :rolleye:
Looks like I did not hit hard enough!  I will get a brass hammer and try again.  I am afraid of missing and messing something else up...