.
As many of you know, my old '78 has been in our family since new and has been kept up pretty well.
However, it has been a bit neglected over the past 10 years or so, despite its use as a seasonal daily driver.
My mission is to thoroughly clean and flush the cooling system, fix some pinholes in the radiator, replace all the coolant hoses (less the impossible heater hoses :nocool:), t-stat, leaky valve guide seals (must be gone every 12 years I guess :rolleye:), valve cover gasket, other minor gaskets, leaky EGR valve, spark plugs, wires, disty cap & rotor, PCV valve, & timing belt.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4578498332_d61668691d.jpg)
Most of the spare parts were obtained from Rockauto. All parts were of the best available brands – no skimping there. Total from there was about 200 bucks. I learned not to use cheap timing belts when one failed on me on 2-29-2000. It stretched, jumped a tooth and the engine died on the spot – first time in its life that it had left me stranded.
Since this car is a surviving daily driver with significant collision damage, I am keeping it bone stock, with the exception of the adjustable cam pulley to bring the power band into the lower RPMs. :amazed:
I put this operation off last year, but recently the car has ran worse and worse, up to the point I felt challenged when racing a school bus off the line... :rolleye:
So this year, it is happening, so let's git 'er done!
Day 1 - Low effort degreasing...
A week before the anticipated teardown date, I decided to start cleaning my nasty engine...
Engine temp gauge still said 140* a few hours after I came home from work, so it was a perfect temp for cleaning.
Here is BEFORE:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4578498342_ca85d7b873.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4007/4578498346_d3a19ba570.jpg)
I bought two cans of Gunk for this project.
Before gunking, I hosed down the cement under the car and kept it wet with water throughout the process to prevent stains.
I started at the left rear of the engine / tranny and circled around to the right rear, spraying Gunk only, in a stream to help blast away the oily grime.
I used a toothbrush only on the valve cover and one thick area right at the thermostat housing. Did not even get my hand dirty...
I let it soak a few minutes, then repeated the same application from LR to RR.
I repeated soak and spray again steps again until the first can was empty.
I got out the water hose and used the jet stream position on the nozzle to wash the crap off. I kept spraying under the car also to wash the nasty stuff away. (Ironically, I did this on "Earth Day"... ) ::)
Even though the "environmental friendly" degreasers will work, nothing seems to beat Gunk. I always believe that when cleaning something off, it is best to dissolve it with it's base ingredient. In this case, it is petroleum! Applying to a warm (not hot) engine really helps, too!
Below the AFTER pics of round one.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4578498360_6f4f0d671a.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4578498364_e357ff8f52.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4578498378_fc26646382.jpg)
Coolant drain and flush – let the games begin! :amazed:
I drained the coolant and saved it for recycling. It has been in the car for nine years – oh how time flies! Several years ago I did add a bottle of corrosion inhibitor to it as I knew this big job was coming...
Draining is easy on this car. I did pull the heater hose at the water pump to allow air in for easier draining.
Old stuff did not look too bad. Yellowish green, no big rust issue thank goodness. I refilled with water, ran it & drained it a couple times to remove as much coolant as possible, as the block drain plug was hard to get to and I knew this engine was not too nasty inside. When all was clear, I put 2 bottles of Prestone super flush in the radiator and filled it with water.
I used a screwdriver lodged in the heater hose connection to 'burp' the air out as it ran.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4578519698_3025191ac1.jpg)
I drove the car about 25 miles over the next week for a good cleaning. :fastcar:
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Day 2 - Higher effort degreasing...
On the last day of April, while the engine was warm, I did round two of degreasing and cleaning of the engine, under the hood, and around the engine bay. I used Gunk, diluted Tide, brushes, scrapers, and high pressure water. Extra gunk and water pressure was directed around the spark plugs to keep crap from falling in the cylinders when I pull the plugs later.
Here is after round 2:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4578519700_487be011bb.jpg)
Looks nice when wet! :amazed:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4578519716_de0ebfdf8e.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4578519724_56410a7c94.jpg)
Here's when dry...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4578519726_60461f6974.jpg)
I also cleaned under the hood...
Before: :rolleye:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4578519728_4d91b884b7.jpg)
After: :surprised:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4578540068_3d02f22f0a.jpg)
The majority of the grunge stemmed from the constantly leaking valve cover gasket. However the leaks were never bad enough for it to drip all over the driveway. After the 10lbs or soof oily grunge was gone, I drained the cleaner and water from the cooling system.
Drain and flush, round two...
I was shocked to see that the stuff was BLACK! :nocool:
I refilled it, ran it, burped it, drained it about 5 times until the water came out nice and clear. :smile:
Here is the sequence of coolant drains from left to right – Straight coolant, flush 1, flush 2, straight cleaner results, cleaner rinse 1.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4578540070_06ef3eb8c6.jpg)
I only bottled the first rinse, as the cleaner is not really even that harmful. Active ingredient is sodium citrate, which is actually a food additive! :hypno:
The system was filled with tap water, ran until hot and left overnight to soak.
Next, the I pulled the air cleaner and covered the carb throat with a special can I save, just for this purpose, and plugged the open vacuum lines. The air cleaner itself was degreased afterwards and hung to dry.
Time to call it the day... :sleep:
.
Day 3 - Power flush! ::)
The next day I flushed the cooling system.
The old coolant hoses and radiator were removed.
Note the 1992 date and "made in USA" markings on these old hoses! :surprised:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4578540078_ba15dd2fac.jpg)
Using the garden hose, I forced water through the heater, radiator, intake and block in different combinations while blocking various ports. Looked pretty clean for the most part. I never really had any cooling issues, even with no shroud in 100+ degree TX summer traffic.
Inside the engine was pretty rust free, due to ALWAYS having a 50/50 mix of coolant. :amazed:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4578540082_a0a14eb141.jpg)
More cleaning - does it ever stop?? :mad:
Now that more parts were stripped off, round three of degreasing and cleaning took place, mainly around the bay itself.
While the Gulf of Mexico was being slicked over with crude oil sludge, I noticed I had done the same to my yard where the driveway drains into. I now need to shovel away the black contaminated stuff and get rid of it... :reek:
After my water-filled day, I blew away standing water from the engine with the leaf blower and called it quits.
Engine bay looks pretty good so far! ;D
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4578540084_891a84df43.jpg)
.
Day 4 - more disassembly and cleaning! :rolleye:
The EGR valve was in horrible shape and was spewing oily exhaust into the engine bay. >:(
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4578540086_27346f3011.jpg)
The passages and pipe were all clogged and were cleaned out. A new EGR valve was bought on clearance from Rockauto and is en route.
The timing belt cover and valve cover were pulled and washed...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4578554108_2d1b47f8a2.jpg)
Here is the timing belt:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4578554140_87ed7de8a2.jpg)
Here is the top end before scraping, the second time it has ever been exposed to sunlight: :amazed:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4578554118_50a07b2edc.jpg)
Note the petrified gasket pieces laying about that were later removed by hand... Yes, an oil change was due and will be done at the end of this procedure. :look:
Here is cyl 2 & 1
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4578554124_06d94bd516.jpg)
And Cyl 4 & 3
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4578554130_2dff83ee87.jpg)
The gasket was scraped from the cyl head and the dried cover was placed upon it again to keep it clean.
Now Sunday night – I call it quits. :sleep:
Rob - looking GREAT! Should be fun this weekend coming for a visit. I plan to have a full Saturday Pinto day, working on yours AND mine.
Chris
Looking forward to the help, Chris - you will enjoy the insight of the inside of the 2.3!
Day 4 - Odd job day...
New small coolant hoses (all 5/8") were cut to length (3.5" and 2.5") and installed on the cleaned-up coolant pipes.
The aluminum air cleaner was quickly polished up.
The hood prop rod was repaired with the SSC parts and PCV valve, disty cap, and rotor were replaced.
The crank pulley was loosened by putting the car in 4th gear with the parking brake set. This worked to my advantage since the car was parked on a slight incline and the weight was on the brakes already. Turning the bolt CCW caused the car to want to reverse, so there was hardly any crank movement. After a few good heaves on the ratchet, the bolt was free. I thwacked the pulley with a small hammer gently on both sides to break any rust bonds. Contrary to desires to pry or yank the pulley off, only very slight, gentle shakes made it come forward. I pushed it back on for now and rotated the crank to TDC and verified with cam and by looking in spark plug hole.
Lastly I experimented with cam degreeing and planned my attack on the head disassembly.
I held diagonal cutters in the lash adjuster groove and used a wrench to pry up on the lifter against the diagonal cutters. Worked great – popped right off. I reinstalled it by sliding it in from the valve side and when it stopped, I gently tapped it in place with a small hammer. Perfect! Now how to compress those valve springs....
Day 5 - Odd job day #2...
After work, the radiator was taken to a local radiator shop for evaluation and repair. Here is the slow weep area:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4587106782_4283a25cb2.jpg)
The guy there glanced at it and said it was beyond repair – wow – it does not look THAT bad! :mad: I was quoted $500+ for a new one or $400 to recore mine – screw them! :showback:
I ordered a new one from Rockauto for 160 – either that one will work or the weepy one goes back in along with some stop-leak stuff. :o
New spark plugs were gapped to specs and reboxed.
New EGR valve came in and low and behold – a genuine Ford part that almost looked NOS! :hypno: :hypno: It even had "made in USA" on the label under the Ford part number! :amazed:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4587106778_c76d80f74f.jpg)
Of course, it did not fit without issues – note the hose nipple was on the opposite side... :nocool: I had to take the diaphragm off and turn it so the nipple is on the correct side. Not too hard. Afterwards it was installed with its included LEAD gasket. The cleaned out pipe to exhaust manifold was reconnected without issue.
Day 6 - Odd job day #3...
Oil fill cap gasket was cut from an orangey gasket material from the hardware store. Valve cover was hammered flat around the bolt holes using aluminum stock. Lastly I planned for tomorrow's "battle of the head"... :read:
Day 7 – Valve guide seal replacement - the real fun begins!
It seems like every 15 years or so, the valve guide seals on the 2.3 need replacement... The engine starts burning more oil, most evident after sitting and after prolonged idling. I usually let it go a few years after until the smoke clouds are visible behind me upon takeoff... Right now oil consumption is a quart per 600 miles – pretty bad. :nocool:
I did this operation back in 1991 (74k miles) and barely remember what I went through. I thought the car would be gone by the time it needed to be done again – WRONG! This time, with the advantages of digital cameras and documentation, I will be able to remember it longer. Will I have to do it again?? We will see......
Last time I pulled the head, but this time I will do it with the head installed. I know it can be done and it will help me save my back from wrestling a 75 pound block of iron off from the block... THAT part I do clearly remember! :o
Chris (popbumper) stopped by to lend a hand and to also see this operation in person. He will need to do his seals if the original motor is to go back in! ;)
Of course it is easier to do with the motor out of the car...
So here goes!
First, crank TDC was verified once more and the crank pulley was pulled. Timing belt idler was loosened, pulled back with a big screwdriver, retightened, and the timing belt was removed. The lobes had worn 0.06" – not too bad. I bet it stretched a bit though. Most of the nasty grime in the timing belt enclosure was scraped off.
The four big oil return holes in the head were plugged with non-shedding paper towels to prevent small parts from falling into them (which would create a VERY bad day...) :reek:
Next the rocker arms removed one by one using the method I had tried above, making sure I knew each of their positions for reinstallation. Some of them popped out, ending up under the car... :rolleye:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3325/4598917595_4e2c4c647a.jpg)
Compressed air was directed around the spark plugs to remove any residual debris and then they were all loosened and # 1 was removed. The air fitting was screwed into the #1 spark plug hole finger tight and was connected to the air compressor (set at 40PSI). The air in the cylinder will hold the valves in place if all goes right...
Here comes the fun part!
I attempted to compress the valve spring with this improvised tool, just enough to get the keepers off.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1400/4598917601_605881bf7d.jpg)
Let me tell you this was the biggest failure done on this project!! :mad:
Even with Chris helping me, the force required to compress the spring controllably was beyond one's imagination. We wasted almost an hour fighting this and got only one keeper off. My hands hurt badly and my thumb is still numb as of this writing. :nocool:
We made a trip to Otterzone and found a screw-type overhead spring puller for 20 bucks. Yay!! :amazed:
I was unaware to that type of compressor - I only knew about the C looking thing for doing it while the head was off.
We got it home and tried to get it in there, but the #%@&! cam was in the way! >:(
It had to come out anyway to replace the seal, so cam pulley was removed. I found myself in a bind trying to get the two big screws in the back of the head loosened! I needed a #3 phillips on a short ratchet attachment. I tried a #2 offset screwdriver, but they were too tight and I felt it starting to damage the screw – I stopped.
Chris was kind enough to take me to Otterzone again and then to Lowes in the search of a tool – nothing - #@$%!! :mad: >:(
On the quest, I realized a #3 small bit in a ¼" box wrench would work. We get back to my house empty handed and I searched for the above two tools I knew I had. That too another half #@$%&! hour! :hangover:
Finally find them and got the two screws out along with the retainer plate.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1141/4598917605_982cf50a16.jpg)
Gently ease the cam out and it will not pass the radiator top rail! More #@^*&!! :mad: :mad: :nocool:
Put crank pulley back on, jack up engine under pulley, barely missing sway bar. Removed two long motor mount bolts and jacked up engine about ¾ inch.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1341/4598917609_d3d27014fe.jpg)
The bumpstick was now carefully extracted from the head, noting its original position. It was set aside in the garage, away from floating contaminants.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4598917611_d7c5e3e5b8.jpg)
I lowered engine enough to get the two bolts back in loosely.
NOW the springs started coming off the way they should with the compressor! :hypno:
I started with #1 EX. Compress spring...
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1237/4598917613_4d7b716b97.jpg)
Remove the two keepers with the magnetic pickup tool...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3338/4598931215_46a4f44853.jpg)
Remove the compressed spring and retainer together...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4598931225_4c57557de1.jpg)
I pried off the hardened old valve seal and checked for valve slop. There is some visible slop but not too bad...
The seals were hardened but not too broken like they were the last time. Valve stems were coated with a layer of engine oil:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/4598931233_4c4dceca44.jpg)
The new seals were installed as per their included instructions:
Install included plastic installation sleeve on valve, slather it and the new seal with oil, press seal over sleeve and tap it home with a socket and hammer.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/4598931235_bb5a3433ec.jpg)
Remove sleeve and save for next valve. Oil valve and seal last.
Compressed spring and retainer was reinstalled along with their keepers. Spring was released carefully and valve was tapped with a brass hammer to make sure parts were seated.
Next I did #1 INT, which used a special blue seal with the same procedure.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3298/4598931257_973ac5904c.jpg)
Air hose was detached and fitting removed. A new gapped spark plug was installed loosely.
This process was repeated for the next 3 cylinders.
The cam seal was popped out of the front of the head with a big screwdriver and hammer.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4598931259_561613c65c.jpg)
A new cam seal was tapped in with a block of wood and a hammer and lightly greased inside.
The engine mount bolts were pulled and engine was jacked up ¾" until I could see all the cam bearings in a row: :P
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1279/4599561066_31d887f14e.jpg)
The cam bearings were lubed with 80-90 gear oil and cam was carefully installed.
Engine was lowered, mount bolts inserted and tightened to spec. Finally the back cam retainer and screws were installed.
In the process I dropped the little screwdriver bit, it BOUNCED OFF the oil drain plug I installed (phew!) and landed at the back of the transmission! :hypno: No cussing required this time, as I just grabbed the magnetic tool and snagged it. 8)
The pretty Esslinger adjustable bumpstick pulley was installed next. ;D
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1371/4599561068_b9770cb35b.jpg)
Its bolt was coated with Permatex thread sealant, the cam held with a monkey wrench, and the center bolt torqued to spec.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3365/4599561074_5bdbed0534.jpg)
I left off the old pulley backplate as instructed in its instructions.
I verified crank was still at TDC, cam was in right, with the front two lobes directly UP, and disty pointed to #1 wire.
The timing belt was installed and the idler released. I turned the engine over a few times using the crank bolt to take up any slack, returned it to TDC, and tightened the idler to spec.
I cleaned the top of the head and removed the paper oil hole plugs. The cam was drenched in clean 80-90 gear oil.
Degreeing the cam...
Here I followed PintoRacer's "Cam timing 101" article very carefully. I will not get into detail, as he already did...
I verified the TDC position of the cam with the front two lobes directly UP and level.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4599561080_abca703472.jpg)
With an aluminum plate on top, I measuring from each side of the plate to the left and right side of the head, making sure both distances are even.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1439/4599561086_f054726d0e.jpg)
I made a scribe mark for 0* on the pulley. With the pulley's five adjustment bolts loose, I gently rotated the cam 3* advanced as shown on the cam pulley according to the pulley's instructions, and tightened the bolts securely in sequence.
Day 8 – Rest under the influence of prescription painkillers :hangover:
I sure needed it – I was hurting everywhere! ??? Finally around noon, still a little 'high' and still in a bathrobe, I prepped the thermostat housing. I flattened the flange by bending gently with a vice and sanded it on a granite flat-block. I washed and dried it and cleaned the flange with alcohol.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1177/4599561096_5294ecd76d.jpg)
The thermostat went into the cleaned groove and the self-adhesive side of the gasket went on the housing to keep it all together for installation on the block.
Later on that day, after replacing a window motor in my Oldsmobile convertible, I finally got around to some Pinto work about 7pm. I installed the thermostat and housing and gasket using some permatex sealer and tightened to spec.
I also rewrapped the engine wiring with non-stick black tape and installed protective wire loom.
Now late and starting to rain, I called it a day. :sleep:
Wow, great pictures guide on your tune up. I love reading stuff like this. Makes me want to get my hands dirty and get the wagon's valve train adjusted! :)
Keep up the good work!
It was a blast being part of the effort, even with the difficulties we encountered. I learned a LOT in the process, and it was good comraderie. Thanks Rob for letting me be part of it. And yes, you'll get the bodywork lesson - soon ;D.
Chris
Thanks Dave! Despite the few responses to this thread, i hope it will help others do these operations a bit more smoothly than I encountered. If you lived closer, i would let you finish up my car - that would get those hands dirty! :evil:
Chris, thanks for helping out and driving me all around town looking for tools we couldn't find. What a waste of time that was, but not all was lost - I got some ideas that let us get that blasted bumpstick out... :nocool:
BTW, this ain't over for you YET - there is a test at the end. :P
You will most likely have to do all this to your motor before reinstallation. I will watch you and grade ya! :lol:
.
Day 9 - Some assembly required...
Today the rocker arms were installed. DA'ed me left them outside in the tray the night before and we got a surprise rain that night. :nocool:
We got a quarter inch, cause that was how much was in the &#@$%! tray... :mad: :mad:
I dried them off, buffed off any rust spots, and reoiled them. The cam, valve stems and the adjusters were smeared with 80-90 gear oil.
Whack-a-rocker!! ;D
I slid the rockers in from the spring side, held them at the adjuster side, and whacked them firmly onto the adjusters on the spring side with a deadblow hammer.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1327/4601565238_d69b01702a.jpg)
The ones that I could not get a hammer to were levered on with a small crowbar and a block of wood.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3398/4601565242_debb948708.jpg)
The key to making this work is for the cam lobe to be straight up – not 'kinda straight'... :o
Lastly I drenched the cam and all the parts with clean engine oil.
Time for the valve cover to go back on! :amazed:
I ordered the Felpro "Permadry plus" silicon rubber gasket this time which ~should~ help seal it better. No sealant is needed – just install with care. It is twice the price of cork, but should be much more durable, longer lasting, and more leak-proof – well worth it if those claims are true!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4601565244_3446f4e848.jpg)
I tightened bolts slightly and in sequence, a little more each go-around. I used a big nut driver so I would not overtighten. However, there are brass spacers in the gasket to prevent over-tightening and damaging the gasket.
The timing belt cover was left off for now so I can tune the cam as needed.
A REAL choke cleaning!!
Forget the choke cleaning spray – this is different...
I removed the entire automatic choke assembly to clean it up, as the choke and fast idle mechanisms were very sticky and unpredictable.
It was pretty straightforward, just remove the screws, don't drop anything, unclip the choke rod and the throttle link, and unhook the wire and vac hose.
It was so nasty I could see why it was sticking. :reek: This linkage should not be lubed, as lube dries up, hardens, and attracts dirt. The green cam is very lightweight and is supposed to drop by gravity.
Also, note the fast idle cam stud pulled out and caused the fast idle arm to hang up often. :nocool:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1412/4601565246_a4baf02a79.jpg)
I took it inside to disassemble and degrease it in the sink with citrus degreaser... :o The clean parts were fast-dried in the toaster oven for a few minutes on low. :o :o
Here are the clean pieces! :hypno:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4601565248_f5b713c9f3.jpg)
After reassembly, it looked like a new choke again! :surprised:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1151/4601565252_0d9bf23cdf.jpg)
It was then reinstalled and the gas pedal lubed inside and the clip outside as well.
Good progress for a weekday!! ;D
Rob:
You really have an eye for detail and of course you know I am a NUT when it comes to that - great work. I have a big pile of engine accessories that I will be happy to drop off for you..... :P.
On the driving arouund stuff, no biggie, the crackers were GREAT :lol:
Chris
Quote from: popbumper on May 12, 2010, 12:59:42 PM
On the driving arouund stuff, no biggie, the crackers were GREAT :lol:
We all know the best snacks come from auto parts stores... :rolleye:
Hopefully my radiator will be here tomorrow. It shows to weigh 15.5 lbs on the fedex tracker and my old one weighs 13, so I am HOPING the one I get is not plastic! <fingers crossed>
I noticed Rockauto has the rads again but for 212 - whats up with that??
just because i do not respond does not meen i do not enjoy reanding and making mental note in case i ever cross this path on my own. it is very hepfull yhanks and keep up the good advice/ work.
phil
I can't help but to feel so happy you are still determined with this car. I have a thing for the 78 sedans/hatchbacks and love to see them in original shape and well maintained. Keep it up!
.
Thanks guys - the replies do help me keep my sanity through all this! :laugh:
Day 10 – Almost there!
I decided it would be silly to start this engine with such nasty, dirty oil in it, so I did an oil and filter change. I only drained out 3 quarts anyway – it barely showed on the dippy stick... :rolleye:
I used Motorcraft 15-40 diesel oil since it has higher levels of ZDDP, and I also used the Motorcraft filter that wally world always sells at a decent price. :amazed:
Afterwards, I disconnected the coil and did a compression test with the engine cold, throttle at idle position.
Cylinder 1 - 130 PSI
Cylinder 2 - 143 PSI
Cylinder 3 - 155 PSI
Cylinder 4 - 150 PSI
--How do these look?? ???
My close neighbor next door came over wondering why I could not get it going, and I happily told him I was just doing compression checks. :cheesy_p: He said if it ran first try, he would make a toast with me! :lol:
Now the above results are interesting... :read:
Back in 1995 with 95K miles, and with the same tester, I measured the following with the engine warm to the touch:
Cylinder 1 - 127 PSI
Cylinder 2 - 133 PSI
Cylinder 3 - 143 PSI
Cylinder 4 - 140 PSI
Does it measure better when cold?? ???
Certainly it is not "healing" and getting better... :P
Anyway, it looks like this engine will not be getting torn down in the near future!
The spark plugs were torqued down and connected using new Motorcraft wires and separators.
Getting them nice and neat was a little challenging. :nocool:
Test run!!
Before filling the cooling system, I wanted to see if the car would even start and run.
I plugged the open vacuum lines, gave a shot of carb cleaner into the carb, closed the choke and gave a short twist on the key...
:lost:
The block is machined cold & the clearances are tightest then. Things expand & move around when warmed up. Are you using the same compression tester? If you are curious just re-check it warm again.
Test run!! :surprised:
Before filling the cooling system, I wanted to see if the car would even start and run.
I plugged the open vacuum lines, gave a shot of carb cleaner into the carb, closed the choke and gave a short burst on the key...
KA-VAROOM!!!!!!!!!!!!! :hypno: :hypno:
I hit the pedal and the idle speed dropped. It ran a tad rough with a little valve noise, but it idled okay. I ran it about a minute and shut it down since there was no alternator or coolant yet. It was warm, but not hot.
My neighbor brought over a beer and gave me a "good job!" toast! :drunk:
The accessory belt was installed, as well as the hard heater lines, securing them with their little clips to the valve cover.
I decided to bypass the heater core, as I no longer trust the 32 year old hoses. I cannot replace them without pulling the heater box, so that work will be done in the fall when I work on the interior some.
I did secure the old hoses and plugged them well to keep bugs out. :P
Day 11 - New radiator arrives!!
So what is a $160 last-one-in-stock radiator made of?? ???
Well, on the good side, it turned out to be brass and copper. ;D
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1408/4607307521_9f7fd1c8f8.jpg)
On the ugly side, it is the same exact make and model of the piece of junk I had in there now – a ready-rad. :nocool:
The last one was put in around 2001 and started leaking 2 years after. I'll just have to see how this one does I guess... :mad:
I installed a heater bypass hose, as I do not trust the heater hoses and do not need a heater for a while anyway. Note the two fail-safe brass "blowout preventers" :lol: I added to the heater line...... :rolleye:
These will make switching back to a heater less messy and easier to switch back to bypass mode on the side of the road should an old hose burst in heater configuration. I got the valves from Lowes – ball valves with ¾" hose connections.
Although the radiator was new, I flushed it with water in both directions to remove any possible contaminants.
It was installed without too much difficulty – drop it in and put in 4 bolts. Glad I kept the spring nuts from the old rad. Overflow tube was installed and secured with black tie-wraps. The big radiator hoses needed no trimming to fit and I installed them with new clamps where needed. The fan guard plate went on last.
I filled the system with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, a little of each at a time. I left the radiator cap off and added as needed.
It cranked up easily again, very little diminishing valve chatter that went away in a minute. Choke pulled off after 3 minutes or so.
Once it was hot and on slow idle, I set the speed to about 700RPM and tweaked the mixture to get a somewhat smooth idle.
The timing belt cover had to be installed to time it and luckily it went on easily. I got out the timing light and set the ignition timing since it was last set with a stretched timing belt. Spec is 6*BTDC, it was at about 4. I had to tweak the carb mixture and idle speed afterwards. I suspect worn throttle shafts and carb bushings are the causes for roughness.
Once the coolant was topped off, the genuine Motorcraft radiator cap was installed.
The polished-up air cleaner was installed last – not too bad-looking now! :hypno:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1353/4607308237_b3c9cd0969.jpg)
Remember, nothing was restored or painted. Only parts that were broke or bad were replaced. :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3339/4607919112_4a7ecc8583.jpg)
Test drive! :fastcar:
Well, there are some good, bad, and ugly here.
--The good is that the car runs. :P After some tweaks, it seemed a little more responsive with 3* cam advance. 8) Spinning the tires around corners can be done easier, for sure... :amazed:
--The bad is that there is a bog on initial takeoff, when before it was not too bad. ??? At about 1600RPM, the power started kicking in. I am still questioning the throttle shafts. Also, the idle will be okay when shut off, and very rough after a restart a few minutes later. :mad: Lastly the PCV valve is very loud & buzzy! :nocool: If I pull it out and plug the bottom the noise stops – wow??
--The ugly is that during the engine washings, big cracks in the clutch lever boot allowed the bellhousing to fill partially with water. :reek: This caused lots of rust on the tranny shaft and throwout bearing. Needless to say, a loud hollow shrill sound occurs when the clutch pedal is depressed any amount. >:( It happens when the bearing spins on the tranny shaft. Also, the clutch slipped some during the first couple miles. :nocool:
Finally, the clutch disc was sticking to the shaft splines, causing me to miss shifts. :mad:
When I got back home, I got the car on ramps and pulled the decrepit boot. Water drained out :o and I tried to carefully shoot a stream of WD40 at the bearing. It seemed to help only a smidgen and I gave up for the day. I left the boot off so hopefully it can dry out in there. It is full of oil, too – it captured the oil from the constant valve cover leak!! I do not feel like changing the original clutch yet!!! :rolleye:
GREAT JOB and a very good post!! ;D The engine looks brand new! :amazed: Try setting your base timing at 10* (you are setting it with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged, right? Just checking! ;D) If it doesn't ping you're good. Might help with the hesitation. Once again, great job!! :)
Quote from: 71pintoracer on May 14, 2010, 09:01:30 PM
GREAT JOB and a very good post!! ;D The engine looks brand new! :amazed: Try setting your base timing at 10* (you are setting it with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged, right? Just checking! ;D) If it doesn't ping you're good. Might help with the hesitation. Once again, great job!! :)
Many thanks...
Dude - you beat me to the next question! :P
I was gonna ask if i should set ignition timing to stock 6* or bump it up. I will try 10 and move back if needed. Yep, disty hose was pulled n plugged... ;)
NEXT question - how do you arrive at best cam timing number? I am using 3* now. Keep advancing until it pings (like ign.?) The more you advance the more the power band moves down?? :o
Should ignition or cam be timed first? Or does it matter? :-\
Hopefully I can get it running better.
Thanks for the help! :)
The cam timing and ign timing have nothing to do with one another. As far as cam timing, the cam is designed to be run "straight up" or at 0 degrees to the crank. The problem is that the factory sets them "close enough" and every engine is set the same. Might be dead on, might not. Then if the head has ever been shaved, that retards the cam even more. Did you need the 3* to get your cam straight up? Or did you go an additional 3*? I would say you don't want to go more than 6* total above straight up. I ran my 2.0 at 2* but it had an aftermarket cam. All you are really doing is changing the powerband of the engine. Advancing the cam gives more bottom end which the 2.3 desperatly needs.
Play with it and see what feels best, you should be able to tell a difference at different settings, 2* at a time. Remember, if you needed the 3* to get to zero, start adding from that point. I think I read that you marked the pulley at 0 and then advanced it to 3*.
One more point, and I know this gets to dragging on and on, but with the engine out of the car you use a degree wheel and find absolute TDC. We are hoping that the factory mark is the same, but it could be off a degree or two, which in turn would throw your cam off. Most of the engines I have checked have been dead on.
So once you get the engine running good, you can play with your new toy and change the cam and see how it affects the way it runs. :fastcar:
Okay, I set ign timing to 10* - no knocks or pings at all during a 6 mile drive.
The initial hesitation was improved but now i seemed to have lost that extra oomph I thought I had... ??? MAybe now i just have some filler power... ;D
I would not think the timing change would do that...
I once thought that the most spark retard without ping was ideal...
I did set my cam to 0* - (mine was originally off a couple degrees I think) then made the mark on the cam pulley. I then set 3* advance.
I think I will add 2 more and see what it does. What happens if I go over 6*?? I am so curious... :P
The car starts so much easier when cold and the choke pulls off fast - I have never experienced that with this car it seems!!
I pulled the cat converter and found it to be getting a little restricted.. And good cleaner for that, aside from a san-angelo bar or crowbar?? I am surprised that it was not full of oil!
If you don't need the cat for smog certification, ditch it. Those old cats were very very restrictive and yea, after 30 years..... :P
If you have to run a cat, look into an aftermarket low restriction.
Kinda strange that bumping up the ign timing caused you to loose power. Might want to check your total advance to make sure the vac advance is working properly. 34-36* total is ideal.
As stated before, all cams (unless it is a custom grind) are designed to be run at 0. Advancing or retarding just changes the power band. With it advanced, the intake valve opens sooner, but the exhaust closes sooner as well. After a certain amount you are working against yourself, so to speak. In their cam info section, RW ans Esslinger say 6* should be the max either way. However, ign timing and cam timing are things that you can play with. You can "feel" the difference. (as you already noticed) So go ahead and play with them, you won't hurt the engine by going 6* with the cam or even more, it is a non-interference engine. But only do one at a time, (don't change ign timing and cam timing at the same time, work with one or the other) that way you know what made the change in the way the engine runs. :)
71PR - I really appreciate all the advice so far! :smile:
After setting to 10*, I checked it with the vac advance connected and I was getting about 30-something* at idle. When I revved it a little, centrifugal advance took it to 40ish or more (estimating). That sounds about right...
I will bump the cam another 2* later and see what happens. Yes, some tinkering around will be needed to find the right combination.
If I hammer out the semi-clogged ceramic honeycomb in the cat, I should get some better flow. WOuld this require a carb rejet, since the engine was designed with this known restriction? ??? I thought a more free flow would require richer jets... Do correct me if i am wrong.
Thanks again!!
40-ish is to much timing. 36* total is all you should run, didn't think there was 30* advance available!! :amazed:
I prolly read the marks wrong... ::) I had doubts when i wrote last time - I will check it tomorrow.
Now you are saying 36* tops at idle with vacuum hooked up, right? Ot at different RPMS, too... ???
Okay, here the deal... Normal idle speed is set to 750RPM. Any lower and it runs too rough.
With disty hose pulled and plugged, I am set for 10*BTDC. Engine runs rough (expected).
When I connect the disty hose, engine runs smoother and timing goes to 28*BTDC.
When I rev the engine past 2000 towards 3000, centrifugal advance takes it off the scale, maybe to 36-38* I estimate. The disty is a reman unit installed a few months ago.
Another weird thing - my carb mixture screw is only turned open about 1/3 of a turnCCW. Engine runs okay even with it all the way in (CW). This is also how it was adjusted before I did all this work.
Back in 1990 when i did this type job, I was able to unscrew the mixture about one whole turn. Whats up with that???
Also, engine runs a little smoother with disty vacuum hose is off and unplugged. Plugging it makes it run a tad worse. Is almost seems like its running rich... ???
Any ideas??
I too am enjoying this post a lot! I recently changed the vale guide seals on my V6.
Have you connected a vacuum gauge to the motor/intake yet? What's it read at idle?
A vacuum gauge can tell you a lot about a motor's condition.
Quote from: dave1987 on May 17, 2010, 08:22:08 PM
Have you connected a vacuum gauge to the motor/intake yet? What's it read at idle?
A vacuum gauge can tell you a lot about a motor's condition.
A vacuum gauge????? What a marvelous idea!! I forgot I even had one of those things! :hypno:
Okay, I hooked it up to a capped port in the back intake.
During its lumpy 750rpm idle, it rapidly fluctuates (vibrates) between 16-20.
According to its FM :read:, this means valve guides are worn. Yes, I noticed a little slop when I had the seals off. I saw the oil around them move as I shook each valve. :nocool: I have to live with this for a while - no high dollar head rebuilds for now. It will need to get worse for that to happen.
If I get the idle to 1100 and above, the engine runs smooth and I get a pretty steady 18 on the gauge.
It drops to 5 when i bump the throttle open like it should and it bounces back to 22, then back to 18.
So for now I raised the idle speed to 1100 and opened the mixture half a turn. Seems to idle well and the gauge is somewhat stable at 18. I'll see how it does on the way to work tomorrow.
Thanks for stirring my mind Dave - I forgot what tools I have here... :rolleye:
If anyone else has any comments, please add!
Glad to help! :D
1100 is a bit high, I can't stand it on my 78's 2.3. Adds a constant low tone hum in the car while sitting inside and it drives me nuts! Mine fluctuates a bit between 17 and 20 when down to 750 rpm at idle, but I like to run mine around 800 - 825. No hum, still have power at take off, and it runs great overall!
Quote from: 78txpony on May 16, 2010, 06:52:27 PM
I prolly read the marks wrong... ::) I had doubts when i wrote last time - I will check it tomorrow.
Now you are saying 36* tops at idle with vacuum hooked up, right? Ot at different RPMS, too... ???
36* total with all the advance in, say at 3000 rpm. Been a long time since I had a car w/ vacuum advance but it seems like you are getting a lot of advance at idle. Are you sure your vac hose is hooked to the carb or are you getting full vacuum all the time? When you hook your vacuum gauge to the dist hose you should have low vacuum until you rev the engine. I run a Mallory Unilite and the base timing stays at 10* at idle and when I rev the engine the advance starts changing the timing as the revs go up.
The disty hose is connected to wherever the factory decided... :P
All the hoses and vac switches, etc, are original, so it is possible something is going on there that shouln't be.
I will connect the vac gauge to it and see what happens. I am thinking it was maxed out at idle.
On the way to work, the car DOES run better and stronger.
Upon takeoff, the clutch engagement is firm and the engine 'grabs' me. I can easily idle in first and second without engine lugging.
This is much more welcomed than the mushy, juddery, engine-bogging starts that I was so used to.
Idle was crappy though - i will adjust that today and keep tuning it.
I wish I can loose that annoying clutch bearing squall!! :mad: The WD40 treatment did not help...
I'm running my distributor off the main vacuum line. I can't figure out which port on the carb is for the distributor. I've tried one that I thought it was but didn't get much vacuum and the motor seemed to run worse. :(
Well the factory hooked the disty to the front manifold vacuum fitting, along with some other vacuum circuits.
At idle, the disty hose has 15" and it increases with steady opening throttle.
The rear manifold port gave be 19".
However, 15" at the disty seems to be enough to give me full vacuum advance.
The disty is a 4 month old reman unit - unsure of its quality.
On the 5200 carb mixture screw, which way do you turn it for richer and which way for leaner?? I cannot remember if that is an air bleed or an actual fuel port...
Thanks!
i was under the impression that they all ran off 'ported' vacuum. (off the carb) and not manifold vacuum.
if, when you run it off ported vacuum it runs bad, it may because you have all the carb adjustments and timing set for when it was connected to manifold vacuum.
THat's my guess. I'm going to try playing with mine on Friday, I'll let yall know what i find out.
Quote from: Srt on May 19, 2010, 05:56:09 PM
i was under the impression that they all ran off 'ported' vacuum. (off the carb) and not manifold vacuum.
That is how I thought the factories did it, also.
Maybe the factory that did mine screwed it up! The original hoses and routings are still in place. Noone has ever messed with the hoses.
I made a vac diagram and will post it when i can redo it and make it readable enough...