I had to cut the old chassis mounts out of the car, does anyone know what I can use to bolt the 351 in. This is the only thing holding me back.
you can put it in with a motor plate.
I found a big peice of steele in my shed. I am going to try to make one solid mount to join the motor and chassis to gether with it. does any body else have any other ideas besides a motor plate.
you got a welder?
if you do you can make "U" shaped mounts bolted together with a "body" mount bushing between the two parts. Cut the steel into 6" wide x12" long strips. bend it into a "U" then figure out what angle it needs to be to reach the motor. then bend the motor part the same so that the two pieces meet flat. Weld the body side mount to the chassis, & bolt the motor side to the block. Drill a hole for 1/2" grade 9 hardware (3/4 if you think the other would break) Add the rubber bushing between the pieces & bolt up. I built the 302 monts for my 'StangII this way.
Quote from: crazyhorse on December 23, 2004, 04:15:27 PM
you got a welder?
if you do you can make "U" shaped mounts bolted together with a "body" mount bushing between the two parts. Cut the steel into 6" wide x12" long strips. bend it into a "U" then figure out what angle it needs to be to reach the motor. then bend the motor part the same so that the two pieces meet flat. Weld the body side mount to the chassis, & bolt the motor side to the block. Drill a hole for 1/2" grade 9 hardware (3/4 if you think the other would break) Add the rubber bushing between the pieces & bolt up. I built the 302 monts for my 'StangII this way.
got a picture???
I wish I did, but I built the 'stang in a hurry (I'll get pictures later...never got to it) I miss that car & have NO evidence I ever owned it :( (other than 2 speeding tickets I got in it!) I CAN draw a picture though.
In his book, Randy Young has a diagram of some motor plates to attach to the front of the heads. They are real simple to make and are only about 10 inches long and 5 inches wide. I would send you the diagram but I left the book in another town over the weekend. Maybe someone else has the book.
I recently put a 351w into my pinto. you can see pictures at http://mysite.verizon.net/res0pv34/ Please feel free to email me any questions you may have. With the use of plates, I do not recommend them because it could slowly destroy the spot welds on the body due to the vibration from the engine. Also, the plates used in the book mentioned will work for a 302, but not a 351. If you still want to see the templates, please send me an email. I used Mustang II mounts and placed them by using the drive shaft and transmission from a Fox body Mustang gt (82). Also, the clutch cable will work from the pinto and my transmission since it is Cable acuated. Good luck with the install.
I am putting a 302 in my pinto but I need some references. I had a tube front end and cage built and when they did it they cut off the frame and extended the front end with square tubing. I now have only the transmission mount as a reference and since I'm using a C-6 I had to modify the mount. What I need to know is how far is it from the back of the valve covers to the firewall? I want to make sure I have it close because I'm going to build my own frame mounts for the motor mounts and I don't want the engine too far forward or back. I would appreciate any help.
Referring back to two of my former vehicles, my Inferior Chevy Vega's front end was completely welded up at all the front body seams for strength while using a steel front mount plate so that would probably be a good idea (it also had a 12pt cage but thats way off topic) and I had a '67 Barracuda with a 440 that used 1/4" thick aluminum plates and the vibrations were really not noticed, maybe the aluminum absorbs harmonics & noises a little...I'm not sure.
my auto teacher in high school used a set of motor-mounts for a car that came with a 351 w. I think they're available through napa.
a sheet of 1/4" steel and some welding time, you should be able to create your own.