When I drive the Green Machine, she does great when giving her the gas. Once I get up to speed and don't need to really have the gas going into the carb "fully" she starts to act like she gets gas, then doesnt, then gets, then doesn't. I can step on the pedal and she picks up speed just fine, it's just when cruising at speed and also at idle. Kinda like she is hesitating or something.
She has a brand new carb on her. I am thinking that maybe the auto choke is not set right or something and it is trying to go on and off.
Another senario, but not sure if this would cause her to do this, is that I know the key switch is going bad do to the fact that I have to play with it to get the gen. light to go out. I was thinking maybe it was cutting the power off and on, but then again, I really don't think that is the problem because it would do it when giving gas too!
So, what do you all think?
I am thinking about by passing the choke and installing a manual choke. The Ghost had one in her but I removed it, but now I am thinking a manual choke would be nice in these old cars. That way I could control how much they are choked and if the auto one doesn't work that well, I wouldn't have to keep giving them gas till they are warmed enough to stay running on their own!!! ;D
I am personally a big fan of manual chokes... they seem to work a lot better on these older cars!
Dwayne :smile:
I have the cable I took off of The Ghost, so I think next time I get the Green Machine in the garage, I will install it, and disable the auto choke!!
I sure did enjoy driving it today though!!! She isn't as beautiful as the Ghost, but she is alot of fun to drive!!! ;D ;D
maybe running a bit 'lean'
If you have an electric choke, then the key and gen light issue will cause the choke to malfunction. The electric choke runs right off the ALT. If the ALT does not charge, the choke does not work, closing the choke to rich.
If you have a coolant choke, then it is not related.
Your problem sounds familiar to when my ALT failed and the electric choke was closing, running it too rich. It would buck and loose power until I opened the throttle. The spark plugs were crusted beyond cleaning afterwards.
Replacing the brushes in the ALT and the spark plugs had me on the road again in under a couple hours for 12 bucks.
I was surprised the battery got me around without the ALT for 45 miles with lights and heater going!
The electric choke is very reliable in itself - just a coil of metal with a wire going to the back of the ALT. In fact it was the only thing that let me know that I was about to become stranded if I kept driving it (dead battery).
Quote from: 78txpony on November 17, 2009, 12:16:20 PM
If you have an electric choke, then the key and gen light issue will cause the choke to malfunction. The electric choke runs right off the ALT. If the ALT does not charge, the choke does not work, closing the choke to rich.
If you have a coolant choke, then it is not related.
Your problem sounds familiar to when my ALT failed and the electric choke was closing, running it too rich. It would buck and loose power until I opened the throttle. The spark plugs were crusted beyond cleaning afterwards.
Replacing the brushes in the ALT and the spark plugs had me on the road again in under a couple hours for 12 bucks.
I was surprised the battery got me around without the ALT for 45 miles with lights and heater going!
The electric choke is very reliable in itself - just a coil of metal with a wire going to the back of the ALT. In fact it was the only thing that let me know that I was about to become stranded if I kept driving it (dead battery).
Hmmm, I don't know if I have electronic choke or not. I'm thinking not. THis is a 1600 motor with a single barrel carb. I am thinking the choke is on the carberator. I think it is water activated? Not sure on that, but I think it has water hoses going to it!
Kim ,
Unhook the choke linkage after you warm it up, tie the rod down so the Butterfly for the Choke is open. Drive it, if it repeats the same symptoms, you might have contaminatination in the Fuel or float bowl, thats affecting the fuel flow at part throttle.
Pintosopher
2.0L and I'm sure 1600 are the same, if the points get too close together, it will fall on its face when you take off and then catch its self and run ok. I alway set the points as wide open as it will run with. Works for me.