Whats the easiest way to get rid of the rubber spring perch pads on my 8"?
And please, as much detail as possible on how you did it.
I install everything new but those rubber pads but they were in real good shape...With the LocRite I installed I can feel the car pulling left or right depending on what side locks in first..
I believe the rubber pads are allowing just a small amount of movement causing it to pull one way or the other..
And yes, I did use the proper metal shell that installs around it..Also everything is torqued properly.
is the car pulling one way when you get on the gas & the opposite when you get out of it?
Quote from: srt on November 04, 2009, 08:43:05 PM
is the car pulling one way when you get on the gas & the opposite when you get out of it?
No.
With a power tracs lockrite locker installed both axles won`t lock until power is applied to it...Some times the right side will lock 1st then left side will lock a fraction of a sec later OR vice verse...
When only 1 side get power to it with these rubber pads in place it will cause the axle to shift monetarily just a few degs. pushing the car one way or the other..
I need to just get rid of the rubber mounting that goes between axle and leaf springs.. The only problem with just taking them out there is no alignment hole for the leaf spring pin to sit in... These rears just have a big ob-longed hole in the spring perch...
The easiest way I see doing it is to use some 1/4' plates cut the same size as the spring perch with an alignment hole drilled in the center, then weld it to the perch....
Racer Walsh advertises lowering blocks that will eliminate the rubber bushings. Their paper catalog says they will lower the rear by approximately 1.5".
http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/RWA2230/RWA2230__rear_low_kit.html (http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/RWA2230/RWA2230__rear_low_kit.html)
On my 72 I used the racer walsh blocks. They have the oblong shape on top to match the perch and a hole in the bottom for the spring pin. I had to weld a heavy washer in the shock plate to reduce the hole size to match the spring bolt on the bottom. The 2-1/2" u bolts were hard to find. I can't remember if there was a length issue with the originals or what...just know I replaced them. Good luck, JT
How much can be milled off the lowering block?
I have the wagon sitting the way I like it and don`t what to lower it any.
The blocks uunder mine are 1-1/8". I've had these for at least 10 years, so manufacturer could have changed. You could probably mill 1/2" and not worry about cracks. I did not measure before and after, but visually my car doesn't look lower. I was trying to eliminate some wheel hop...and still am. JT
Quote from: 72pair on November 06, 2009, 06:49:24 AM
The blocks uunder mine are 1-1/8". I've had these for at least 10 years, so manufacturer could have changed. You could probably mill 1/2" and not worry about cracks. I did not measure before and after, but visually my car doesn't look lower. I was trying to eliminate some wheel hop...and still am. JT
Thanks for the info..
On you wheel hop, have you tried a cal-trac type of bar?
I posted a link where you can build your own I think in the racers section.
I took 1/4" mild steel plates cut 4 3/8"x3 1/4" then drilled a 1/2" hole right in the center.
Welded then to the spring perches on the axle and bolted the axle back into place..
It fixed the axle shift problem, only time will tell if I run into any wear issues.