What kind of carburetors can I use on a pinto 2.3? Most of the pinto carbs seem to be worn out and no one seems to work on carburetors anymore. I can put a kit in them but the throttle shafts are leaking on two of mine. I have one EFI 2.3 i can stick in one of these cars but at least one of my other ones needs a new carb. Ive located plenty of other used and reman pinto carbs but eventually they will all end up the same way. I think the "reman" carbs were just cleaned up and had a kit installed in them. They will fail in short order with the same problems i have now. I think its time to step up to an aftermarket carb, maybe they'll be easier to work on and have replaceable throttle shaft bushings that I can fix somewhat easily. If i get a new one it will be a long ways from worn out, also.
You should be able to use a holley 2bbl from Checkers performance area at one of their stores. We have one here with a whole lot of nice goodies. they run 279.99 for a standard 2bbl. Just ask them of fitment.
Well I discovered tonight that I had adjusted the idle mixture in (lean) way too far and that was causing it to run the way it was. It was nearly undriveable. I thought that mixture screw was only for the idle mixture but apparently it has to do with more than just the idle. I also moved the accelerator pump cam into the 3rd hole instead of the 2nd one (its supposed to be in the 2nd one but the 3rd one gives it a bit more fuel and since it does have a big vac leak at the throttle shafts I figured more fuel would help it) I also set the timing, but i have it set to 36 degrees, with the vacuum advance connected directly to manifold vacuum. Its probably not right but it starts and runs great right there and alot of the hot rodder guys on hotrodders.com recommend 34-36 degrees as the max timing on an engine. They typically are refrerring to small block chevys but i thought id try it on my pinto and it works great. The only problem i see is on acceleration it will actually retard the timing instead of staying advanced.
So I think I may have a pinto carb restored and see how this thing runs. Hopefully better than it ever has as I'm tired of fighting this things quirks. Thanks for the info 75bobcat, but we dont have a checkers here. I might be able to order it from online tho. Or maybe from jegs?
You can still get a new Weber 32/36 DFEV from Webercarbsdirect but they are asking
$269.95. The Weber is a better version of the Holly 5200 by far. The jets and air bleeds are interchangable with the Holley if you need to use them in the new Weber.
I have a DGEV on my 2.0 but the DGEV is a mirror image of the DF series so the primary and secondary are opposite. Had to modify the throttle likage to make it work, but it sure works good!
If you still have points I would look into a transistorised upgrade. Also check how worn the bearing for the shaft is. If it gets sloppy you'll never kept the dwell
set, it will always be changing and so will the timing. :o
The distributor is new. How do you set the dwell anyways? I've never figured that out. I can set the points but not the dwell. I plan to upgrade to an MSD 6al, but also plan to switch to the EFI 2.3 so I wont need the MSD then.
found these guys on the 'net'
http://www.daytonaparts.com/ (http://www.daytonaparts.com/)
if you need a Pinto carb i have one off my 75 that I will let go cheap.
jim
Setting points by dwell requires a dwell meter and basicly just gives an indication of correct point gap with the engine running. Dwell affects timing so be sure to check that also. I ran an early '80s junkyard electronic distributor (cheap) with a 6A box for years with no probs and no points. Try it, you'll like it!
I was wondering about that. I have an 80 dist in the car with an Accel coil and the stock ford ign box. What can i use instead or better??? Actually I do have to admit it works pretty good right now but I am always concern the the ign box is going to fail as they all do eventually...
Quote from: pintoguy76 on August 07, 2009, 12:28:20 AM
I also set the timing, but i have it set to 36 degrees, with the vacuum advance connected directly to manifold vacuum. Its probably not right but it starts and runs great right there and alot of the hot rodder guys on hotrodders.com recommend 34-36 degrees as the max timing on an engine. They typically are refrerring to small block chevys but i thought id try it on my pinto and it works great. The only problem i see is on acceleration it will actually retard the timing instead of staying advanced.
You need to put the vac hose to one of the ports on the carb, 36 degrees total is OK but you may have starting problems after a hot soak with full advance, also you don't want the timing to retard on accel. I see lots of Pinto carbs on e-bay, even saw a new one cheap with no reserve.