I would like to get the AC working , I have the components, some are from other vehicles. I know I will have to convert to r134 and start with a new evap/dryer.How well do the components convert over? do you have a lot of problems doing it? I am limited in AC knowledge,any one who has any experience in this any do's and dont's etc.Any sources of information that may be helpfull would be appreciated.
To start off with, how old is the compressor? If it is very old then you will want to replace it, as it will probably blow out the compressor seal, as R134a runs at higher pressures than R12. Make sure to only fill the system to about 75% capacity, as the R12 levels will be too much and will cause too high of a pressure. Your best bet is to use a gauge set & thermometer in the vent closest to the evaporator for the most accurate temp. Ideal temp is around 45 degrees for a retrofit car, but actual cooling temps will vary depending on outside air temp, humidity, and elevation. A good rule of thumb is if it is 90 degrees and you are getting about 55 to 60 degrees out of the vent the a/c is working efficiently for a retrofitted a/c.
Also, make sure the engine cooling system is in top condition, as the a/c can cause overheating if there is a cooling system problem. Check the coolant to make sure it isn't too diluted, and if you have not done so in a while it might not be a bad idea to replace the thermostat.
Forgot to mention if you use the gauge set low side pressure (blue) should be about 35-40 and high side around 230 if I remember right. If the needle is bouncing on the high side it is a good bet the compressor is going bad. If the high side is too low with a full charge there is a good chance the expansion valve or orifice tube, whichever one it has is stuck open. You will want to charge from the low side with the engine running, and a/c on max a/c. Give it some gas if the compressor doesn't turn on immediately. Revving it will help draw in the refrigerant. Lastly, Make sure to vacuum down the system to remove any moisture. They sell a vacuum pump at harbor freight that hooks to the gauges and an air tank or compressor. It isn't the best but it gets the job done. Also I recommend using a can of refrigerant with leak sealer to help with any leaks.
R134a molecules are smaller than R12, so if there are any leaks the R134a will leak quicker. The leak sealer in the refrigerant will help take care of that.
Agree with everything r4pinto said, plus change the compressor oil out as there will be R12 in there also. Retro-ed an AC on my old Acclaim and I swear it was colder than R12. :surprised:
excellent point about the refrigerant oil! Plus 1 for you! The R12 oil is generally not compatible with R134a so draining the compressor oil with xompatible oil will help.
I'm going to start putting AC in atleast one of my pintos so i can start driving it more instead of my suburban which has working AC. lol. I am going to get an aftermarket under dash unit for the inside, only about $200. Junk yard has some used condensers for around $25 and compressors for $35. I think i would prefer to find a pinto AC compressor and brackets so i know everything will bolt up and into the correct spot. Does anyone have theses? (compressor and brackets)? I will fabricate my own hoses and use a universal drier/accumulator.
I think an in dash unit would work also for those of us like me that want AC/heat/defrost and a 2.3 turbo :D