My '79 2.3 automatic runs great when in park but when put in drive or reverse it spits and sputters and runs like crap. What can it be? Thanks, David.
Timing, vaccume leak, electrical issues............. :'(, Does it idle high?, does it back fire, will it clean up when you rev it high?? ???
It idles and revs good until put into drive or reverse. Drove for 2 blocks and will not clear up. Put into park and seems okay.
So it wont run well under load. My guess is it sounds like electrical, possibly a plug wire, bad spark plug. If not , it could be a bad accelerator pump im the carb. These things are hard to chase down sometimes. I allways start with the easy, non costly stuff and graduate to buying parts.
The idle does seem a bit higher than normal.
High idle could be a vaccume leak or timing at the distrubitor. Check all the rubber hose first.
All hoses look good. The distributer hasn't been touched. Could it be the plug wires or the rotor or the cap? Also, what is the best way to remove the cap?
It really sounds like a vacuum leak to me. ???
Could be a bad plug wire. A bad wire will almost allways show up under load. If the wires have not been changed you might as well change them. ( note)... This might not be the probblem so if it still has a miss you go on to the next thing it could be. Worst case you have new wires, best case the car runs.
My high idle was caused by the vaccum line being off at the air temp sensor in the air cleaner bowl. It connects underneath on the 2.3 so you have to take it loose and raise it and see or I guess you could feel, but hey I'm a visual guy. Let us know.
I checked all hoses and all are good. I've already replaced one that was bad. The plug wires were pressed against the valve cover under the air cleaner duct and therefore very hot. Is it possible that could have damaged the wires? Again, what is the best way to get to the distributer cap and how to remove the cap? I have never messed with it. Looks like maybe moving the alternater would be easier than messing with all the other stuff bunched over it.
The parts car I had was the same way. It would run and idle fine in park. Once you put it in gear and tried to move it would sputter and die. It ended up being a plugged fuel filter (gas tank was pretty rustly). Once I changed the fuel filter, it never died again when I moved it. It might be worth a shot?
Well, I replaced all wires, plugs, cap and rotor today and it runs perfectly. Now I need to replace the valve cover gasket. It is puking oil. Is it a one piece gasket or is something else needed for the front? Also, I want to post some pics. How do I do that?
It's a one piece cork gasket. Hopefully one of the guys that like SHINEY will be able to help US get our valve covers to actually SEAL I've had 4 2300 ford engines & ALL of them leaked oil at the valve cover LOL
To post pics click the link that says "Additional Options..." then where it says "Attach:" click browse then you'll have a window up to find the pics on your computer. once you find the pic you want (up to 100kb) you click open in the window. the filename will be next to the "attach:" then just submit like normal.
Voila your pics are here for all of us to enjoy!!
To solve the leaky valve cover gasket issue, buy the 1 piece silicone rubber gasket for the turbo 2.3's.
I got an aluminum 2.3 valve cover. I use a cork gasket under it. It has yet to leak on me. I don't know what it came off of.
That style valve cover, with the recessed area in the center, came off an '87-'88 Thunderbird turbo coupe.