In addition to my other post, i wanted to ask lots of pointed :lol: questions here separately:
1) POLY BUSHINGS - like those from P-S-T or Energy suspension, I am seeing that they list in their kits as "bushings only", you have to reuse your outer shells. How much of a hassle is this? Do you lierally have to "dig" the OEM rubber out of the original shells? How do you do this?
2) FRONT END KITS - like from P-S-T, do you SAVE MONEY and get REASONABLE QUALITY by buying a package deal?
3) BRAKE CALIPER DRILLING? - some guys have suggested drilling the rotors or drums to assist cooling and brake dust buildup. Easily said - though I have NO idea how to, where to, how many holes, etc., etc. I'll probably just leave this alone.
4) FRONT DISC BRAKES - OK, as you look at places like Rock Auto and others, you see all kinds of variations in what you can buy.
a) FIRST QUESTION: What does "loaded calipers" :drunk: mean? Does that mean "includes brake shoes"? Or, "includes brake shoes and piston?"
b) SECOND QUESTION: If I buy a "CALIPER", what am I buying? Just the housing and plug? The piston? All?
c) THIRD QUESTION: People say "buy better quality brake hardware". OK, does this mean that in the automotive realm, more $$ = better stuff? I realize there's plenty o' Chinese crap out there.....
d) FINAL PLEA: I have well used calipers and rotors. If YOU were personally rebuilding the car with origianl equipment, as I am, would you buy new rotors outright or sandblast and recut/rebuild? Would you buy remanufactured calipers, or would you rebuild yours, and why? I realize these are "unique questions", but I REALLY get tired of so many choices - and I don't want to buy the WRONG parts. I would not say money is not an object, but I will lay down cash for quality stuff....
I'll be glad when I get through the front end......! Sorry for all the questions, give me body work/paint ANY day, THAT I can handle....
Chris
i have some answers for a few of them...
1) some of the fox body stuff id burn the bushing to melt the rubber out then put the polys in.
3) i dont know the method to the maddness of drilling, but they will stay nice and cool and like you said, help with brake dust with the drums.
4) a) loaded calipers come with pads and most of the time with new hardware
b) when you buy a caliper alone, you get a complete rebuilt/new caliper with crush washers. no pads or hardware.
d) i ALWAYS buy new rotors. when you cut the rotor you have less "meat" on the braking surface, it will get hotter quicker and cooler quicker, hense, warping quicker. just my opionion though. i would only replace/rebuild a caliper if it needed it. if the piston isnt stuck or binding, i wouldnt change it.
5) look into new brake hoses, our cars are old and those hoses crack and can swell on the inside causing a sticking caliper.
by the way, im going to add a thread to your dropped spindles topic...you may want to read it.
bob