My 1973 ford pinto is a 2000cc and is 4 in line, it is TDC (top dead center) and does not have a 0 tolerance. I have been trying over and over again with getting everything where its supposed to be. I am using a Chilton's 1966-1973 car manual that is from A-Z. When i go to start the car the gas comes out of the carburetor, would it be the valves? I am totally baffled, I have put the belt on and off like 6 times already. I appreciate any help, thanks guys!!
Are you just changing the belt or are you fixing a car that never ran right?
A couple days ago I took my distributor out to prime my lifters and didn't put it back in correctly. It messed up the timing so bad that when it back fired it blew off all of the exhaust leak "fix-it putty" that I had put on the car about 6 months ago! Loud BANG and a lot of black smoke!
To get it correct, I had to turn the drive-gear on the distributor a half a turn (1/4 at a time) before dropping the dissy back in to get the timing correct.
i have had the car running before i ever changed the valve seals and than i made sure to have everything in sequence and when i went to go start it the gas always came out of the carburetor. my friend and i presume that it MUST be one of the valve seals (it could be bent). we are going to do a compression test 2marrow i think to see if it really is the valves.
You have your intake valve open as the piston is moving upward. So, yes, the valve timing is off. This has nothing to do with the valve seals.
For whatever reason the method you are using to set the valve timing is not correct. I don't know if the 2000 has the proper clearances to avoid bending the valves. On some engines the belt can break and regardless if the valve is fully open the pistons will not hit the valve. On other engines all kinds of damage can be done. Most common is bent valves and broken pistons.
So, check the type of engine a 2000 is first. If the timing is off you still might be OK. However, improperly "correcting " the problem can lead to the same type of damage. It all depend on the valve clearance issue.
To avoid such problem I mark the old belt and each sprocket with paint. Then I match the new belt to the old and mark identical marks. Then I install the new belt to the sprocket marks. I never had an issue doing it this way. Book methods can be vague. As well some of the identifying marks vague also.
Anyway hopefully a 2000 guy will chime in about the issues regarding that motor and the clearances. Hopefully the answer will be in your favor.
Tom
Err yea i meant the valve stems, and im pretty sure its a 2000 cc engine...and im positive we were doing everything right with the lining up of everything together. for instance...the exhaust and intake springs were down when we had everything lined up yet there was still gas coming out of the carburetor when i tried to get it started. a compression test might tell me the answer.
kinda difficult to end a valve stem on a 2.0 unless you have a broken spring etc or an excessively cut head. they are not a '0' clearance motor.
triple check your distributer installation
Delizious,
Your Cam timing is 180 Degrees off if Both Valves are "down" and the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 position on the cap for the #1 wire .
Try this, rotate engine to TDC on Cylinder #1 (verify through spark plug hole and crankshaft pointer) , Move distributor to position #1 at rotor( verify with cap position on #1 wire) Rotate cam so both lobes have the Bumps pointing UP like a V for the #1 cylinder. Both valves on #1 should be "up " in the relaxed position, with play in the followers. If you have stock cam pulley Index the mark to Up.
With all three of these in position, install belt and set tensioner, Make sure nothing shifts as the tensioner takes up the slack. Recheck all positions, and then slowly turn over engine by hand twice and watch the Intake valve ( carb side of head) as it comes up, look at the crank pointer marks, check the distributor rotor position, and cam lobes position. ALL three should line up at the same time as the crank reaches TDC on #1. Then your cam timing is correct.
( unless your engine has a shaved head, then you'll need a adjustable cam sprocket to get it exact.)
This procedure has never failed me in Any SOHC engine I've ever replaced a belt in.
Let us know How it goes..
Pintosopher
Both valves cant be open at the same time. They can be closed at the same time tho, and they should be for #1 cylinder. Timing mark on the cam pulley should be lined up with the pointer (this is where its troublesome, the cam seems to want to seat either one notch above or one notch below the pointer. Then with the belt off you will have to install the timing belt cover, put the #1 piston at TDC using the 0 degree mark on the crank pulley, lined up with the pointer on the belt cover. Take the cover back off and install the belt (with ignition rotor pointing to #1 tower) but keep an eye on the crank pulley, making sure it doesnt move. If it does you'll need to put the timing belt cover back on and line it up at TDC again. After you do all this it should be timed close enough to run and you will only need to adjust the ignition timing a little.
If he has a 2.0 the crank pulley pointer is on the crank seal cover behind the pulley, not on the belt cover. Same deal though, put it on 0 and make sure it stays there. It helps to put it on the crank first, then over the cam pulley, (keep the belt as tight as possible) and then under the tensioner.
I agree w/ pintosopher, cam is 180 out.
Wow, after redoing the valve lash and putting everything back together again theres STILL gas spiting out of the carberator. It has to be the distributor...because im absolutely positive I have the timing on the cam right.
Move the dist one way or the other and see if it will fire up. What I do is put a plug in # 1 wire, put the crank on 10* BTDC, move the dist until the plug fires and lock it down. Still sounds like you're 180 out. Maybe post some pics of how you have it lined up?
Quote from: delizious on March 21, 2009, 09:04:12 PMWhen i go to start the car the gas comes out of the carburetor
Quote from: delizious on September 04, 2009, 11:53:50 AMagain theres STILL gas spiting out of the carberator. It has to be the distributor...
I am baffled as to why a FUEL delivery problem is being diagnosed as a timing issue?
I have some questions to ask. Are you running a stock fuel pump? If so, how old is it? Has the carburetor been rebuilt? If so, how long ago? Was the car running without problem before? If so, what was done to it since?
Quote from: douglasskemp on September 04, 2009, 11:08:05 PM
I am baffled as to why a FUEL delivery problem is being diagnosed as a timing issue?
Not really a fuel delivery problem Doug, if he is 180* out the intake valve will be open on the compression stroke and it forces the fuel back out through the carb.
Sounds like he set it to TDC on the exhaust stroke put a wad off toilet paper in # 1 hole and turn it til it pops out thats compression stoke then find TDC