I have finally started working on my projecet. I have made me a plate for the trunk out of sheet metal, and It looks great. I moved the battery to the trunk and now I need lots of cable. I also put my hurst ratchet shifter it. I want to start on the engine friday. I found a rebuild kit through Power House for $230 that comes with every thing but the crank,cam & lifters, and rods. great deal. I will keep you posted
Took my headers to the muffler shop today to have them cut. I will pick them up friday and then bend them to fit my pinto.
What did you use the "plate" for? The hatch or the trunk floor? What did you use for material? Thanks, Tricky Dick.
I used it for the trunk floor. My dad had some sheet metal for home a/c system, the kind they use for the big pipes, laying out in the barn and I got a piece and measured the trunk then drew the form out on the metal and cut it with a cut off wheel. The reason I used this metal is because it has a kind of rib design on it. Great idea huh? 8)
I am getting a great deal. A buddy of mine was building a 351 interceptor for some kid at his shop, and the kid changed his mind about the car and left the motor with my buddy. The kid had bought brand new stuff for it, including forged pistons ;). Now here is the deal, my buddy had $400 invested in getting the motor finished, and thats all he wants for it ;D. Now I will have a Pinto Interceptor 8).
Got my headers back from the muffler shop, now they are ready to be rebent.
I also took my valve covers and oil pan to my other buddys shop to have them cleaned. I have the 70's style with POWER BY FORD printed on them.
I went to napa today to get a price on some battery cables, and they wanted $160 for 6 ga. Then I decided to go to autozone where I work and price some jumper cables, they had a set of 4 ga. 20ft. long cables for 29.99, so I boought them along with some ends and with my discount it was only $25. I went home, cut the clamps off, put my ends on and ran them through the car. When I hooked them up, every thing worked just like it was under the hood. Not bad, moved the battery to the trunk for $25 ;D.
jeez, this car sounds crazy, your making progress fast. so stop, you're making everyone else look bad. haha, sounds awesome though.
Quote from: 71ss351 on September 18, 2004, 07:33:58 PM
I went to napa today to get a price on some battery cables, and they wanted $160 for 6 ga. Then I decided to go to autozone where I work and price some jumper cables, they had a set of 4 ga. 20ft. long cables for 29.99, so I boought them along with some ends and with my discount it was only $25. I went home, cut the clamps off, put my ends on and ran them through the car. When I hooked them up, every thing worked just like it was under the hood. Not bad, moved the battery to the trunk for $25 ;D.
How did you fasten the battery down? If you take it to the track, and if it's a hatchback, you will need to put the battery in a sealed box (must be approved by NHRA), and vented to the outside of the car, and a battery shut off switch. When I did mine, I used welding cable, and I moved the starter selenoid to the inside of the firewall, where the heater used to be. This made a convienant place to grab power for any electrical componet.
pulled the numbers from my trans. today, turns out it is a C5 not a C4. Anybody know where to find a stall for it ??? ?
I wouldnt use a C5 for anything......... :'(
By the way my pinto will know be known as "THE INTERCEPTOR" 8)
A C5 is well know as being made of Cheese and foil. If you put any torque behind a C5 it WILL brake. If you take a look at any given auto trans site you will never see a C5 on the list of things they sell. It's becouse of the Cheese/foil factor. Heck, I dont even know of One car running a C5 in it other than maby a stock 1985 mustang with a 2.3 engine in it.However, I would recommend that you email one of the better known Trans shops and ask them what they think. This will get you In the comfort zone im sure.
mine came out of an 86 mustang with a 3.8 v6 than I went to 5.0 with it
I still would not use it. Just my 2c worth.
BTW, I did not answer your question about the converter. So, the C5 torque converter is a centerifugal controlled lock up converter which is no longer available. The replacement is called a TT converter ( non lock up). A C4 converter will work as long as the spline count and shaft diameter are the same. I also Neglected to ask if you were going to go through the C5 and modify it. If so, you can make the C5 about as strong as the C4, however in its stock state I still would not use it.
my car has a C5, it is built and has 7 extra clutch disks. They are basically the same as a C4 but they are a weaker tranny from the factory, i used a C4 convertor and a C4 bellhousing (C4 bell is shorter than the C5) If you really want to get tricky, put a C4 valve body in it but you'll need to modify the tranny filter and pickup to work in the C5 pan.
P.A.W. sells a universal pan that fits both a c4 and a c5 I might try that with the c4 valvebody
Jeff,Im glad you took the time and did your trans correctly. My fear with this set up was that with a high torque V8 he would shred that C5 to bits.Not a good thing to happen while out on the road or track.
hey 78pinto did you get some kind of special kit with the 7 extra discs? also does it shift harder and quicker?
They are awefull without a performance rebuild (mushbox) A local Drag race trans builder did it for me, it required machining to get the extra clutch plates in but i'm not sure what he did inside. It shifts hard and fast, on the 1-2 shift it will break loose and head for the wall at the track and thats with my M/T ET streets! If you can get one, get a C4 as they ARE better and the shiftkits are readily available. Just my 2 cents
I am not planning on racing it untill next year because Thats when I am going to redue the whole drive train. I am just getting it ready for a car show we are having at autozone on holloween. next summer I am going to put my 8 inch rear in, change the trans, and put some good heads on it. I just needed a 2500 stall for my cam, because the stock one idled the car at about 1100 in park then 600 in gear, when I started my 302 up with this cam and stock converter it sounded like I was at the track ready to go. dont want that with the 351. ::)
Got my electric fan put in and also hooked up my switch plate with push button ignition, and it looks and works great. Hope to have pictures very soon.
I cut the radiator support out today to make room for my three row, still needs a little clearancing but it looks good. I also checked with a couple mechanics arround here and the told me that the c5 is a good transmission and that the only difference is the clutches the valve bodies are just about the same because my uncle had a c5 and he put a c4 valve body in his and he did not have to modify anything, one of the mechanics told me that the c5 is a little bit better then the c4.
Use what you want, we are just trying to give you good information......... ;D
mounted a neon aqua light under the dash and have it set up where it comes on with the headlights, I think it makes the inside of the car stand out a little. also forget to mention earlier, I put my rims on. dont know what kind they are, but I had them on my mustang. I also found my digital camera so I will be adding some pictures tomorrow. It does not take very good pictures b/c it is one of those wal-mart cheap miny cams.
got my website up and it has pictures of the interceptor check it out
www.geocities.com/ss351pinto/index.html (http://www.geocities.com/ss351pinto/index.html)
Hey 71ss351 where'd youi get that triple gauge cluster?? I LOVE the digital gauges
they were already installed in the car when I bought it. They are made by sunpro. This was the first set I have ever saw like that, not sure they still make them but you can probably check out their website. when you first switch the car on they all light up then sequence down to zero ,except the battery gauge which sequences down to between 12 and 13 volts. cool huh?
added some more pictures to the website and a couple of other things.
I finally paid the motor off today and brought it home ;D. I found out that it has a really nice size cam in it so I may leave it in. bad thing is that the pistons are dish :'(. so not sure what the compression is.
Darn, if it was a 4wd c5 i would've traded you straight-up for a c4 out of a 73 302 maverick. Need somethin to replace the a4ld in my 90 Bronco II.
-Harry
sorry it came out of my 86 mustang. Also have some really great news, a buddy of mine gave me a set of hooker super competition engine swap headers for my pinto ;D. he said he was cleaning out the atic of his friends old house and found them. He said he was going to throw them away but remembered I was looking for a set and said that I could come by and get them and I could have them. So I picked them up tonight. I also have the motor back together and ready to go in the car. I have an edelbrock torker II intake on the way that I won off of ebay also.
sorry I have not posted in a while. I finally finished the motor and got the transmission rebuilt. I also installed a chrome three spoke steering wheel, pioneer cassat player with speakers, mounted a tv under the dash, and wired the fuel pump, fans, and coil to the switch plate. All that's left is to weld the motor and tranny in and a good paint job, which me and my dad are also going to do. I am going to get 3 inch pipe put on with glass packs for now and then 2 chambers later. And I decided to do the reverse shorty idea so I do not have to cut the fenderwells out.
Quote from: 71ss351 on November 30, 2004, 05:37:29 PM
mounted a tv under the dash,
PIMP THAT RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
one of my rims on the front is warped :'( so untill I can get it fixed I am going to have to put the the factory thirteens back on the front.
started the engine up 2 days ago, finally, and it sounds great ;D. I have been running it the past couple of days, untill last night when something bad happened. I hard a really loud knocking sound coming from the engine, I got close to it and it sounded like it was coming from the valve covers. I took them off and I saw that the pushrods where being eat up by the guide plates. It had scraped kind of a barrier on them that kept the pushrods from going beyound that point and thats what was making the knocking sound. The guy that I bought the motor from had the wrong pushrods. so know I have to go buy the right ones.
At least its a top end job............. :)
Quote from: 71ss351 on December 22, 2004, 10:40:36 PM
I saw that the pushrods where being eat up by the guide plates.
This will also happen if you instal aftermarket heads with guide plates on your late model 5.0 and use the stock pushrods.....................trust me, I know. :'(
got everything set back up and got the valves adjusted, and know it sounds better then it did. ;D
sorry I have not updated in a while but every thing is moving very fast know, I bought me a rear end assembly with full posi trac and 3.73's for $125 from a buddy of mine and got the mustang rear end to go with it free, he also gave me a set of traction bars he had sitting at his house. I took my old rear end and the new one to out local welding shop (camden welders) and they are going to put the leaf spring perches on the new rear end on for me, and on top of that, they told me to bring the car down there and they would weld me up some mounts for the engine in the car and at the most was only going to cost me $50. other then that I bought me a set of weld draglites 15 X 10 for the rear.
got me a set of weld 10 inch rims on the back know and bought me a set of uniroyal 275/60/15s for them, also decided to go ahead and use the swap headers, much easier to run exhaust, they sound a whole lot better too. ;D, I have also been losing oil from some where and found out it was coming from the back of the motor, as it turns out this motor has 2 rear main seals a 2 piece in the rear main cap, and one piece in the back of the motor, I just had the 2 piece in it and thats why it was leaking. I pulled it back out again and put a seal in it. I am going to hold off on putting it back in for know, b/c my buddy is giving me a set of 69 351 heads, which some one put a set of 2.00 1.60 valves in and double valve springs on them, I am going to get one of my buddies to shave them down .030" and my other buddy is going to port, polish them, and do a 3 angle valve job on them. not to bad huh?