I have a 72 4-speed Pinto and it's too slow so I bought a souped up 2.0 from a Pony stock racer and decided I needed more gear and an over drive tranny to offset the 4.11s or 4.30s I plan on installing in the 8" Pinto rear I have. I have a T-9 Out of a Merkur/2.3 turbo car. I have several Pinto 4-speeds around too. Ok will the 4-Speed/2.0 bell housing swap onto the T-9? What do I need to do to make this swap work? It looks like it would be way easier than a T-5 install.
Also does any body here know what mods a 2.0 Pony stock motor might have? I can see that it has much better valve springs and what looks like a more aggressive cam. It has an Esslinger adjustable cam pulley and lower power pulley. It appears to have some porting work done on the exhaust ports but not the intake. We are going to tear it down and freshen it up and see if it has aftermarket rods (fingers crossed) for high RPM. What are the Pony stock motor rules? Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
P.S. Sorry second hand from the Pony stock guy. He knows nothing about the motor. Only it runs...
Quote from: 69GT on November 23, 2008, 07:48:55 PM
I have a 72 4-speed Pinto and it's too slow so I bought a souped up 2.0 from a Pony stock racer and decided I needed more gear and an over drive tranny to offset the 4.11s or 4.30s I plan on installing in the 8" Pinto rear I have. I have a T-9 Out of a Merkur/2.3 turbo car. I have several Pinto 4-speeds around too. Ok will the 4-Speed/2.0 bell housing swap onto the T-9? What do I need to do to make this swap work? It looks like it would be way easier than a T-5 install.
Here is a link to my solution.....if you use the 2.3 bell, you will have the same adaption issues as the 2.3 T-5 with the 2.0 mis-matched two upper mounting holes and you need step-up dowels for two others.Thats why I did as shown so I could use a 71 2.0/1.6 bell (I went from a 2.0 down to a 1.6)
link works now.....
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,10435.msg69024.html#msg69024 (http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,10435.msg69024.html#msg69024)
I remember someone here had the dowels... Oh, the link didn't work. I think the regular Pinto 4-Speed bell will bolt to the T-9. looks like it will anyway :) The input shaft looks a little too long though. That can be fixed easy.
Quote from: 69GT on November 23, 2008, 11:05:30 PM
... Oh, the link didn't work.
Sorry about the link...try cut and pasting this and it will work...
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,10435.msg69024.html#msg69024
I have a dyno tested 160 HP two liter, (7000 RPM), that has hooked up with a T-5.
Also have an eight inch with 4:11 gears. I wouldn't worry about rods unless you plan to rev faster.
The top two holes in the 2.3 bell were higher and narrower than the 2.0. I fabricated the fit using a die grinder with cutting wheel, bolted the assembly on a bare two liter block, and welded it up. I can wire feed or tig weld aluminum.
The rest of the bolts align right up.
The locating dowels are smaller and I think that 77Turbopinto has some modified bushings or can get them made.
I have pics of the mod on site somewhere.
Another issue may involve the clutch cable hitting the crossmember under the engine depending on the bell you may be using. Some other members have come up with better solutions than notching the crossmember like I did.
Al
I have been to Al's place and seen the modiffied 2.0 bell he is talking about. VERY nice work.
Yes, I do sell the stepped dowel pins, please PM me IF you need a pair.
What I gather from reading the link, the input shaft is longer on the T-9, the T-9 has a deeper bell, or the 2.0 takes a shorter input shaft than a 2.3; can you tell which? I know the 2.3's input shaft is as long as the bell is deep.
There are slight length differences between the driveshafts in Pintos depending on the tranny and rear axle used; you can find a shaft to fit your application. I get them cheap at a bone-yard where they have hundreds in a rack, and I poke around until I find the one I need.
Bill
Quote from: UltimatePinto on November 24, 2008, 04:07:27 AM
I have a dyno tested 160 HP two liter, (7000 RPM), that has hooked up with a T-5.
Also have an eight inch with 4:11 gears. I wouldn't worry about rods unless you plan to rev faster.
The top two holes in the 2.3 bell were higher and narrower than the 2.0. I fabricated the fit using a die grinder with cutting wheel, bolted the assembly on a bare two liter block, and welded it up. I can wire feed or tig weld aluminum.
The rest of the bolts align right up.
The locating dowels are smaller and I think that 77Turbopinto has some modified bushings or can get them made.
I have pics of the mod on site somewhere.
Another issue may involve the clutch cable hitting the crossmember under the engine depending on the bell you may be using. Some other members have come up with better solutions than notching the crossmember like I did.
Al
160 Hp, cool. can you give us a parts list ? Thanks
Quote from 69GT:
"What I gather from reading the link, the input shaft is longer on the T-9, the T-9 has a deeper bell, or the 2.0 takes a shorter input shaft than a 2.3; can you tell which? I know the 2.3's input shaft is as long as the bell is deep."
69GT,
The Type 9 2.3L bell is about 3/4 of an inch DEEPER than the 2.0L bell. The 1987/88 Type 9 I got actually had the shaft extend 1/8 of an inch past the bell end (the 2.3L must have a very deep set pilot bearing). You can see in the now working link above that even with the 2.0L bell ADDED to the sliced end of the 2.3L bell, I still need to cut a little off the end of the pilot shaft. My lotus pilot bearing is very shallow, hence the need to bob the shaft a little more on the end before I install it..
71HANTO
Yep. My T-9s pilot shaft sticks out beyond the bell too. Drive shaft will not be a problem. It might be easier to use the dowels and mate the 2.3 Merkur bell to the 2.0 than swapping bells on the transmission if cutting aluminum is involved. I'd rather shorten the pilot shaft.
Hey, I'd like to see the 160 HP parts run down myself. This motor might be a serious brawler. I have no idea. We will know soon enough. 7000 RPM sounds about right :) I asked for a 2.0 header for Christmas.
Can those motors really make that kind of power and still be drivable? It's bored .40 over but it's only 124 or so cubes. Kinda small in my opinion. I have a 2.3 (also .40 over) with similar mods but it's more work to plug in to a 72 Pinto so I am gonna try the 2.0 first.
My two liter has the Esslinger circle track roller cam. It was sent back to Crower for modification as the folks at Esslinger said that if it wasn't, I'd be changing cam bearings every other month. Have had problems in the past with the follower adjusting nuts coming loose on number three, and sometimes four, cylinder
The machine shop people welded straps on the top of all three towers anyway as they came with the cam kit, along with the springs, which was the mildest of three choices. Sorry.don't have the specs on the cam.
The head was done using an original Racer Walsh head that I got in the early eighties. It has the stainless valves and dual grinds, and was modified a little further using Dave Vizards porting guide thats found in his book. I think it was shaved .030.
The pistons are flat with small reliefs in the dome for the valves. I can't remember the brand, the whole set up has a ten and a half compression ratio, or so I was told.
As I recall, the stock rods were used, as they are quite beefy for the application. I think the bolts were changed for the higher rpm's, but that's all.
Somewhere on site are pics, I believe the title is "Two Liter On The Dyno" although I can't remember where in the forum it's listed
Watching it on the dyno was great, especially when it came to the six to seven thousand range. It was like a whole different engine came to life
Love the two liter ! ! !
Al
Thanks for the info. I would love to get the specs on that cam.