Can you jack the car up, turn the rear wheel and count how many times the drive shaft turns to est. the rear axle gearing....?????
2nd question....On a small block ford V8...can heater hose's be removed from intake and W/pump. And intake and W/pump be plugged with plugs...Or does it need a short hose from intake to w/pump ????
On a old SB Chevy, it can be plugged...Not sure on Ford Small Block....
There should be a tag on your rear axle with the gear ratio.
Rear:
If your missing the tag, then take the cover off and then count the pinion teeth and the ring gear. Take the ring gears # of teeth and divide it by the pinion teeth #. You can do the wheels in the air and count the driveshaft thing , but its less accurate. for example its tough to tell the difference between the 3.18 and the 3.40.
For the water pump issue you need the bypass hose to stay connected. You dont need to have the heater hoses connected to a heater core. Just plug or cap them.
There is no tag...I will have to pull axle to see the diff...no inspect. cover...It may have locked rear axel....when i take a corner, one tire will chrep...one of these days, i will pull rear axles and look...You car has Mustang ll headers...How is the fit?
Sounds like you have an 8in rear. Its possible you have a 3;40 or i think a 3.23 was a possibility. Not sure. If it looks stock and like it wasnt swapped in you can get a small hope with the code on the door jam. But its not 100%.
My headers were old school cyclone/ Blackjack Mustang II headers. But they only "sort of fit" when stock. I also have the Mustang II bellhousing, convertor and a C4. All bets are off for an AOD, 5speed etc.
The carburator would have been right under the hood. So i had to modify the heck out of them. Mainly where the steering shaft hits #5 tube. So i ended up completely cutting them apart and adding mandrel bends and new collectors. Was a real big part of the project for me. Also the collector points right into the trans on the passenger side. Soooo i just cut that one apart as well and redid that one as well. There was also an issue with #3 tube. It had a severe bend right out of the head. So being that it was a cheap header they kinked it at the factory. So i pulled that one out also and formed a new tube and re-routed it a small amount. Still ended up cutting it completely apart though.
In the end theres very little reason other than cost that a good header builder couldnt build a set like mine for around $1000. Yes very expensive for a V8 Pinto. Not a cheap deal but they still fit like they should fit and they have good ground clearance. My set of headers to start with were new(NOS) cost me 250+ shipping, the mandrel bends were around 100+ and the cost of getting them coated was another $220. Cheaper than a custom builder but it took me 6 week ends to do them. And lots of lost money in time and supplies.
I have cast/ Man. , they both head back and righ under the firewall...I also have 4speed...I was told that motor, trans and rear were out of Mustang 2...the rear is not stock..the rear track is wider than the front........ I may try a Mustang 2 headers...I can buy a set for the pinto, but it does not say they are for wagon...What type of shocks do you have...?
Thats strange that your track is wider. Thought that the Mustang II rear was the same width as the Pinto. Could be wrong again. LOL! Well then all bets are off on the rear end ratio.
If you want there are a set of headers that fit without cutting on Ebay right now.
They are a bundle of snakes, but they work.And there coated. Summit right now has these for over 750+ shipping. If they fit the sedan they will fit the wagon.
I have konis but they are worn out in the front. I put over 6 years of daily driving on them. KYB's are good shock as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6160-1HKR-Hooker-coated-headers-71-73-Pinto-289-302-NIB_W0QQitemZ120331046324QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item120331046324&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
I have konis but they are worn out in the front. I put over 6 years of daily driving on them. KYB's are good shock as well.
Here are my headers, Hooker swap headers. Fit great even with the 5 speed, no ground clearance problems even with the car being lowered 2". Got mine new in the box on e-bay for $160.00, Summit sells them for $450.00.
I just bought that bundle of snakes on ebay you were talking about, wasnt ready for them yet, still painting the engine bay but couldnt pass them up for 200 bucks hope they work if not they will be back up for sale.