PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => General Pinto Talk => Topic started by: 71HANTO on January 24, 2008, 01:33:26 AM
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I’m new member to this group but have been a lurker/guest for maybe a year or so. I came to Pintos as an original owner of a 1980, 2.3. Auto Trans., Pinto “Woodie” Wagon. It cost me $6004 out the door and had almost every option available. The car ran flawlessly for the four years my wife drove it. Even with it fully loaded, we towed a small ski boat on weekends. I traded it in on a (GULP) Chrysler La Baron turbo for the wife (LEMMON-but that’s for another forum). I only received $1000 trade in for the 80 Pinto and only 27K miles on the clock. Which brings me to the next Pinto chapter.
I have been racing a 1966 Lotus Cortina for several years at vintage car track events. That fun ended when I rolled it into a little ball of metal after a rear axel failure going about 60. Me and the engine drive line are the only things that survived largely un-touched. Fast forward a couple of years. My son always wanted a MK1 Cortina as a driver/racer but they are scarce in the US, parts are hard to find and are often many times the price for a similar Pinto part. Plus most suffer from terminal rust issues.
I suggested that he look at the American version of the Cortina. A car that comes with a Cortina engine, has a lower center of gravity, a much wider wheel track, weighs about the same, and has a better parts availability that cost WAY less..... A 71 PINTO!! He soon found a largely rust free CA car, less than 50 miles from our house, with the original green fading paint, a 1971 trunk model with a 2.0, C4, front Discs, Air, Fold Down rear seat with 22k original miles on E-Bay for $1,300 (first owner was a disabled woman hence the low miles). He drove it off and on for about a year adding another 2K miles. From the start he wanted MORE POWER!
Enter Pinto #2, an AK Miller Turbo Charged 1971 4-speed 2.0 trunk model Pinto with a tired engine again on E-Bay and in CA.. He purchased yellow #2 Pinto and I then bought his green one. In our deal he ended up with the low mile 2.0 engine out of the green Pinto to use as a base for a new turbo motor. I decided to fill the hole left under my green hood with my full race 1600cc Lotus Cortina Twin Cam engine (bored out from the original 1588cc).
After doing my homework (FORDPINTO.COM threads helped a lot during this), I planned the upgrade for the suspension with old school hydraulic adjustable Koni’s on all four corners. Cut 1977 Mustang II V8 springs for the front and out back and I'm adding a secondary single leaf to each side that were extracted from my 69 Mustang leftovers from an upgrade. I’m lowering the back 1.75 inches with aluminum lowering blocks including diff angle correction. I decided not to use my Cortina’s 4sp Quaffe straight cut Dog Box and went instead with a 2.3 T-5 that I pulled from a low mile 87 mustang. I will be using a full race Tilton 7 ¼ single clutch set up and light weight flywheel BUT finding the correct 3 hole mount starter with a 10/12 pitch gear that mates up with the Lotus flywheel has been my LAST missing link .
I had an Aerostar aluminum drive shaft shortened and replaced the original 71 rear end with an 8 inch rear I pulled out of a 1976 V6 Stallion Pinto along with the larger rear drum brakes (portioning valve will be used). Because the Pinto is being built for the track 1st and the street 2nd, I put in 4.63 gears with a Detroit Locker TruTrak geared posi in an aluminum center section to cut weight. My Twin Cam was flywheel dyno’d at 181HP@7500 rpm, still pulling hard to 8500 with twin Weber 45s but I will limit it to 7300 rpm with a 6AL chip and smaller choke tubes for longevity. The Pinto will still have a top speed of over 130 mph with the T5 and 22.7 inch tires.
This project Lotus/ Pinto has been conveniently homologated as legal for vintage racing events in the under two liter Trans Am B-Sedan class and it's because of the ONE documented 1974 Lotus 1973cc Twin Cam powered 5sp HANTO Pinto prototype built by John Hansen and featured in a 1974 Autoweek article. My 71 is a HANTO-LITE tribute (less filling, but promises to be much more fun ;D) . I will post updates and pictures over the coming weeks and months as I finish this little beast. My goal is to have it ready for Knott’s 09.
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:welcome: 71Hanto,
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I love the story about your car..Hope to see some pic's of all the mads and hear more about the Kid and his Pony.
Best of Luck
FrankBoss
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Outstanding sounding project! That is really cool! I am totally digging the racer Pinto. For a while I was thinking about doing an SCCA-type tribute to the old style CAN-AM racers (the late sixties-early seventies Mustangs) out of my old 76 Mustang Ghia parts car. If funding was not an issue, it'd be done already.
Keep us updated, and :welcome: aboard!
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Greetings from the ancient sage of Pintosophy! I can really appreciate what your project has become. this is a great group...
:welcome:
Pintosopher ( Old School does rule!)
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71HANTO,
To make a long story short....Glad you came out of the woodwork and decided to share your action. It sounds like some interesting action. I was glad to be able to finish your story before my wife got home from work. That woman can rattle my brain and that intro was far to cool to be interupted. Please pictures....Pl ease Participation and please put your pin in the map.
A big welcome from the Welcome WAGON !!!
High_Horse
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Sounds like you've done a little to the car...
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Hello all,
Thank you for all the kind words and encouragement on this project! Comments, suggestions, and observations are always welcome either good or bad. My son's little bio picture of our two Pintos was taken just before the carnage started. As a note, my son's yellow pinto is mechanicly done, driveable, and on the road with the new turbo motor, T5, and 3.40 "open" 8 inch rear, Wilwood front disc brake conversion, 5 lugs with Koni's on all four. The green Pinto stayed 4 lug.
71HANTO
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Hello 71HANTO!
Pleas start a gallery pleas! pleas! pleas!
If I can fumble my way threw the proses anyone can.
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Hi Dad... :)
Here are some pics of our cars:
Here is 71HANTOs (and my former) Pinto
As purchased:
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Green%20Pinto/96_3.jpg)
With some elbow grease added (and Lotus Cortina wheels):
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Green%20Pinto/DSCF0197.jpg)
Interior:
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Green%20Pinto/DSCF0267.jpg)
The 24k mile engine:
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Green%20Pinto/DSCF0271.jpg)
Heres my goofy mug after I tested out new brakes:
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Green%20Pinto/DSC03693.jpg)
Here is my 71 AK Miller 2.0 Pinto. I did a mechanical resto/mod on it (ended replacing or reconditioning EVERYTHING), but I put off the cosmetic portion for when I have the funds.
Towing it home:
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Yellow%20Pinto/RancheroPintoTow.jpg)
Engine compartment when purchased:
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Yellow%20Pinto/P1000168.jpg)
Engine now (I obviously still have some things to finish up). But it runs great!
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Yellow%20Pinto/DSCF1313.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Yellow%20Pinto/DSCF1323.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/Yellow%20Pinto/DSCF1324.jpg)
I replaced the doors with ones from a 76 Stallion... They have better side impact protection (and had sport mirrors attached!)
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Sounds like a great project. I knew John Hansen when he was building the prototype Hanto. We both belonged to Cape Cod Sports Car Club and his development shop was in Hyannis, MA.
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WOW...thanks for the info. Do you have any idea where John is now or what happened to the Hanto Prototype? I would love to talk to him. Do you have any anecdotes on your experiences with knowing him? Any info greatly appreciated!!
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Here is a pic of the Lotus Twin Cam being transplanted into the green Pinto...
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/66TwinCam.jpg)
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Thank you Fastbak390 for teaching a man to fish....I mean post pictures....We ll here is a couple from recent progress pics up front. I need to repaint the Lotus block from Ford Blue to the original Ford of England Gray then in it goes!
The Ford English gray is halfway between their weather and their teeth!! ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DuringDeRusting.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DetailedBay.jpg)
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Here is a pic of the Lotus Twin Cam being transplanted into the green Pinto...
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd86/fastbak390/66TwinCam.jpg)
A twin cam Lotus in a green Pinto, sounds like a perfect match to me. How close is it to British racing green?
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WoW Hanto,
Your engine bay looks grerat!!!
I do have 1 sugestion.
Your engine mounts are upsidedown the shield part should be toward the engine. The way you have them provide zero protection from heat and any oil that may lleak from the engine.
From Pintony
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WOW! Cool! you have added a photo of the engine.
I am some-what confused about the Lotus engine. It has 2 cams, but only 2 valves pr-cylinder???
No Mater... IT LOOKS COOL!!!!
GO FOR IT!!!!!!
From Pintony
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A twin cam Lotus in a green Pinto, sounds like a perfect match to me. How close is it to British racing green?
Almost dead on! Yellow Spitfire Race Stripe Anyone? Nahhhh......
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WOW! Cool! you have added a photo of the engine.
I am some-what confused about the Lotus engine. It has 2 cams, but only 2 valves pr-cylinder???
No Mater... IT LOOKS COOL!!!!
GO FOR IT!!!!!!
From Pintony
Thanks...Yes.. two valves per cylinder...But ...IT"S A HEMI :hypno:...well 1/2 of one!! ;D
This "hemispherical combustion chamber" Cosworth designed head dates back to 1963 but if set up right, can still pull nearly 2HP per cubic inch with NO added huffers or puffers.
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WoW Hanto,
Your engine bay looks grerat!!!
I do have 1 sugestion.
Your engine mounts are upsidedown the shield part should be toward the engine. The way you have them provide zero protection from heat and any oil that may lleak from the engine.
From Pintony
You can thank the San Jose factory boys back in 1970 that put these in. They are the 24,500 mile originals. I will put the new ones in the other way instead of the Australian way! :lost:
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i am curious about some of the details on the engine of the yellow cars motor. the cast iron elbow/downpipe at the turbine exhaust and the metal (aluminum) piece connected to the compressor outlet and terminating at the rubber bellows over the valve cover as well as the alternator being located on the drivers side. were these mods made by the original owner or you. those don't appear to be ak miller pieces
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I think he is running a T-3 turbo and EFI crossover
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here is the original ad for the lotus pinto by hanto
http://blog.themustangguys.com/Hantopinto.jpg
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i am curious about some of the details on the engine of the yellow cars motor. the cast iron elbow/downpipe at the turbine exhaust and the metal (aluminum) piece connected to the compressor outlet and terminating at the rubber bellows over the valve cover as well as the alternator being located on the drivers side. were these mods made by the original owner or you. those don't appear to be ak miller pieces
As Pintony mentioned, its a water cooled T3 turbo, elbow/downpipe, and crossover from an EFI 2.3. When the original turbo grenaded, he made up an adapter plate for the AK Miller manifold and the T3. I'm making a conservative 5psi with it.
The alternator was relocated by the previous owner as well using Ford bits for an A/C Pinto.
The great thing about having the alternator relocated is that the wiring harness can be entirely on the drivers side of the car... away from the turbo heat. I can also just screw my wideband sensor into the factory O2 sensor provision in the downpipe.
I just hate the rubber elbow though. It blows up like a balloon under boost and is a leak waiting to happen. I need to fab some piping as soon as time and money allows.
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Here are some oldies of the 1980 I bought new. They were taken around 1981-2. This is the first time out towing the boat. I was dry toasting to the boat for good luck. That boat could keep up with ANY unblown jet boat in it's day. It was also one of the most dangerous things I have ever owned. OK... let the leg and dorky fashion comments begin.... :drunk:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/1980Pinto1.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/1980Pinto3.jpg)
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i'm stuck in the past with a lot of this stuff guys. i hope i didn't come across wrong
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i'm stuck in the past with a lot of this stuff guys. i hope i didn't come across wrong
Hey SRT,
I'm not sure what you are running for a Pinto?
I am glad we have you around if we need to ask questions about the AK Miller Turbo items.
Here is a photo of an AK Miller 2.0 engine that I have.
I do not have the rail... YET!!! ;D
From Pintony
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i'm stuck in the past with a lot of this stuff guys. i hope i didn't come across wrong
I honestly didn't get that impression from you.
I edited my signature for accuracy though. ;)
Did all of the AK Miller turbo motors have chrome valve covers?
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Hey guys. In 1971 or 1972 I worked at Ak Millers as a mechanic. Two of us were in charge of putting the turbos and koni shocks and sway bars on all the (pre-body work) Pangras that came out of Huntington Ford in Arcadia. We cut the front coils and added lowering blocks to a lot of them but not all of them.
All the ones that we modified were 2.0 motors. A couple had automatic tranmissions. At the 'garage, we did not put together any 2.3 cars although, there was a 'kit' that was offered by Ak Miller Enterprises, (same guy-right across the alley-mostly custom work & mail order)
At that time (over 35 years ago) none of them out of our shop had chrome valve covers. Some of them had a boost restriction device that fit into the compressor tube across the top of the valve cover. Almost all did not. The ones that did not have this restrictor all had a water heated casting through which the compressor tube would pass. This was to warm the intake charge prior to entering the combustion chamber. It was suppossed to be a driveability issue.
The batteries were all relocated to the drivers side of the engine compartment using a modified stock battery tray. They did not have any non-factory gaauges installed at our shop.
We put together 2 a day and delivered them in the afternoon and picked up 2 more to work on the next morning.
We burnt down (the motors-not the cars!) on a couple of them on the freeway 'test run' on the way back up to Huntington Ford. Shhhh...don't tell anybody ;D
The cars all had a 2 1/2" exhaust ( now that I think about it, it may have been 2 1/4") from the turbine outlet to the rear where we hung a Walker Turbo muffler (part # escapes me) We did the exhaust work in house.
Mine was a '71 2-door, dark green metallic, 4sp with goodyear ppolyglas tires and the 2.0 motor. It was my 1st new car and I still think that it was one of the best cars I have ever owned.
I put a turbo on it at the shop one afternoon after work and went cruising (street racing) that night. The motor had an 'o'-ringed head that had been shaved .060" a Spearco adjustable cam pulley, a stock distributer with the dual diaphragm vacuum canister that was rigged to retard timing under boost. It also had a water injector that utilized the windshield washer reservoir and a stock nozzle that was fastened to the air cleaner(later into the air horn of the carb) and the koni shocks, dropped on the ground with some special leaf spring s at the rear that were a new single leaf set-up. Shocks at the rear were set loose, no rear bar but the front bar was a good sized 1 1/8" Interpart bar that I had made for me. Front springs were cut down out of an early chevelle. Damn thing rode like a rock but on a smooth road up a canyon it was pure heaven and extremely tossable.
I ran into quite a few fuel distribution problems so I put on a 2bbl carb out of Ford truck and a different intake manifold and solved that problem. I also knocke d the flywheel right off the end of the crank twice but solved that by having the crank re-drilled for SAE threads in 1/2": size AND dowel pinned the thing.
With a 3:55 rear gear, tires in the size of 185/70-13 continental radials at 35 #'s the car did a quickest in the 1/4 at Irwindale Raceway (it's a brewery now) like a 1347 at 101 mph. Through the traps in 3rd gear at about 6000. No boost control. and 24 mpg to boot!
I haven't owned one since i sold the shell (with a full frame and a 9") in 1975 or 1976.
I was setting it up to take a 460 but got married instead!
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By the way; ALL OF YOU HERE ON THIS SITE: I really admire your dedication the the SPORT of owning a Pinto.
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Here are some recent pictures of how I adapted a large oval hole 8 inch rear end housing from a 76 Stallion Pinto to fit the small hole mount type springs in my 71 eliminating all the extra isolator junk (weight). I used 1/8 flat metal stock and hand fit the blanks with beveled edges for a stronger weld. A local muffler shop welded all of the bottom and about 60% on the top where they could reach under the axle tube. The shop also cut my Mustang II V8 springs at the same time with their industrial cutoff saw all for $45. Not bad for LA.
I still need to detail the 1976 big brake backing plates before putting in the aluminum pumpkin, seals, and axles.
When I cut down the lowering blocks, I left a fraction of extra metal on them to hand lap them to the curve of rear leaf springs with the added extra leaf I pulled from my 69 mustang.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/rear1.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/rear2.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/rear3.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/rear4.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/rear5.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/LBlockside.jpg)
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More photos of progress. I removed the old 71 Pinto rear replacing it with this modified 76 Stallion Pinto 8 inch with the better, bigger, cooler vented brake drums for racing. The new rear with the aluminum center section with it's larger axles weighs in at 148lbs including fluid and the brakes. The original 71 6.75inch weighs 118lbs. A 30lb difference. The Aerostar aluminum drive shaft weight difference should make up for a 1/3 of the weight penalty back over the original drive shaft with the added benefit of less whip saw force to the diff. In other words, less static forces or deadweight to overcome as the rear moves up and down. The new rear has a service rating of 350 FT LBS with the Detroit Locker TruTrax geared Posi and 4.63 gears. The Lotus engine only puts out 133 so it's strength is RPM not grunt... it shines only in a lite car.
I spread out the original springs with 69 mustang donors to show my race tuning choices to mix and match whatever pound and softness ratio works best. Next will come the front suspension rebuild and bushing upgrade with the cut V8 Mustang II springs. I also included a picture of the relatively clean low mile california parts. The leaf springs were obviously originally natural color metal. A little spray lube on the bolts before un-loosening them made the rear removal MUCH easier than I anticipated.
By the way Pintony...You raised the bar on your restoration project so now everything I touch thats staying with the race car.....I have to REST-TEA-FY in my CLONE-IF-A-CATION :hypno: It's all your fault!!!! ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04540.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04526.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/71originalsanjose.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04538.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04511.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04534.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04523.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04517.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04522.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC04529.jpg)
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Where did that lite weight third member come from? I want one!!!! Thanks for some better posting in a long time.
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Thanks..more pictures will be coming with more progress. I had Currie Enterprises build the rear, press on new axle bearings, and replace the original wheel studs with longer racing type. They're about 50 miles from me and easy to find using a web search. They do top of the line work.
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Here are some progress pictures on the rear end springs adding Poly bushings. I turned down 1965 Mustang 9/16 bolt full Poly bushings from Energy Suspension using a drill press with a wood rasp. It takes hours and patience to turn these down correctly with the proper pre-load size while making them all consistent. I used a micrometer and measured as I went. The reason I left the larger flange is to help counter deflection or twist in the rear during hard cornering. I put the springs together using a large secondary leaf from my 1969 Mustang donor. I'm waiting until I can load the car to gauge the proper ride height so I can add a 1977 Ranchero rear anti-sway bar. I'll have the brackets welded to the bottom of the car once I determine the correct pivot point locations for the end links. I'll have pictures of this sway bar set up when I'm futher along to clarify.
65 Mustang Poly bushing next to an original 71 Pinto rubber bushing.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/MustPinto9-16BoltHole.jpg)
Just starting to turn down the first set.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/TurningDown.jpg)
Down to the correct size allowing for pre-load of the bushings once they are pressed in.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DoneTurning.jpg)
The un-turned Mustang bushing, the original Pinto, and the turned-down replacement with the large flanges left on.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/BeforeOriginalDone.jpg)
The restored springs ready for assembly.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/SpringsPainted.jpg)
Here are the Large Eye bushings pressed in.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/PolyEyeBushings.jpg)
These are the rear shackle bushings after assembly.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/PolyShackleBushings.jpg)
The completed springs ready to be bolted in.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/FinishedSprings.jpg)
With the leaf springs installed.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/NewlyInstalledSprings.jpg)
I machined the lowering blocks to fit the new stainless locating bolts, nuts, and washers.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/MachinedHoles.jpg)
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Here are some Labor Day weekend work-in-progress pics of the Pinto/Lotus. I cleaned the engine with degreaser then sprayed the original color gray on the 1558cc L Block. I left the head bare aluminum because I like the looks. Once the engine was in the pinto, I repainted the valve cover the original color blue with an air brush.
I also put the new 8 inch rear on the reconfigured leaf springs with lowering blocks (no pics yet) but the lower U Bolt brackets need to be modified to take a longer rear Koni shock. I'm now waiting on a Type 9, 5 speed transmission that I'm getting in a parts trade. I will be putting only 133 ft lbs of torque through it but LOTS of sustained RPM.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05077-1.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05071-1.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05080-1.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05163.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05091.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05094.jpg)
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A twin cam Lotus in a green Pinto, sounds like a perfect match to me. How close is it to British racing green?
I would like to see some of the looks on peoples faces when you open the hood.
Leonard
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Excellent-Excellent-Excellent
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Looks great Dad!
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How do you hook up a linkage to all those carburetors?
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How do you hook up a linkage to all those carburetors?
The Weber Carbs have a single, adjustable, concentric, rail type linkage. It's hard to see on the Twin Cam Engine in an earlier post of this thread when it was still in the Cortina. The carbs are on the wrong side for the pinto original throttle cable. I will use the LONG one I pulled from the crunched Lotus Cortina (same issue because it was an imported left hand drive car).
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Here is an old scan of the dyno test on the Lotus engine now sitting in the engine bay of the Pinto. It is a normally asparated 1600cc or 98 cubic inches bored out from the original 1558cc. It has about 3 1/2 road race hours on it since the dyno test. The chart is hard to read but it shows 181.36 HP @ 7500 RPM and 133 FT LBS @ 5500-6000 RPM
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DynoSheetTwinCamClose-1.jpg)
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Wow, it took a little while to read this thread. Your Pinto looks super! Keep up the good work. The MkI Cortina is one of my dream cars, I didn't know there were any in the US, When I was growing up, the guy down the street from me had 2 mkII Cortinas, still neat cars, but a little tame compared to the earlier models. I lived in Germany when I was a little kid (Army brat), so my taste in cars reflects the first cars I saw. My very first car was a Renault 10 (engine in the back, water cooled). I bought it for $50 when I was 16 and it took all summer to get it running (it sat for 10 years). I drove it till I was 18, bought my first Pinto (a brown wagon) for $190, and passed the Renault down to my brother, he learned to drive on it, but it died and parts were near impossible to find for it. I admire you guys that do that much work to your cars. Mine's just a daily driver, and mostly stock, but I love it just the same.
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I got lucky at Pick Your Part. Found some SUPER lite 15X7 4X4.25 Pinto Racing Wheels by Dyna Lite???. Anyone know the story on these? :hypno: I was able to test the offset on a 74 wagon that was at the yard also. Paid $94 for the set then paid Bolton's Wheel Repair another $20 a piece to have the road rash welded up and removed (Gardena, Ca.)and at the same time they checked them for trueness. The load capacity is 1580 lbs each ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05203.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05208.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05205.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05206.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05193.jpg)
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:surprised:
You have a Serious Engine.. My Word...
I am green!
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that is going to be one sweet pinto, cant wait to see that car complete!!
keep up the great work and show some more pics along the way!!
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Thanks for all the great comments and stories. Now that I have the Type 9 transmission 2.3L(1987) to 2.0L Bell(1971) to 1.6L Engine(1966) adaption issues behind me, I theoretically could have the car running and on the road in about 4 hours of work. But then.... I REALLY wanted to BELIEVE Santa was able to get his rotund self AND my 10 speed down our chimney :hypno:
I still need to detail the trans. and get a 23 spline Tilton 7.25 clutch disc and the correct 2.3L Tapered Nose Throw-out Bearing to go with my existing Tilton setup.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05250.jpg)
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hey charles i sent ya a messsge with the total and my shipping address just let me know if you got it thanks
eric
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hey charles i sent ya a messsge with the total and my shipping address just let me know if you got it thanks
eric
Thanks Eric, got it and will get a money order in the mail to you tomorrow (Weds)+PM sent, Charles
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I was able to get the detailing done on the Type 9 yesterday while I'm waiting for the clutch disc and throw out bearing I ordered to get to me. You might ask why I would try to detail the underside to show quality if it is just going to be a a race car??? EASY...I have a history (very brief fortunately) of showing the underside of my race car at speed....it just has to look pretty just in case :hypno: :hypno: :hypno:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05257.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05283.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05280.jpg)
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Here are some pictures of Datsun 240Z ALUMINUM rear brake drums I am adapting to the 71 for racing (actually the adapted 76, 8 inch rear). These save substantial weight over the original cast iron Pinto drums and put more power to the ground faster with less dead weight mass to overcome. Plus with less unsprung weight, the suspension can do it's job and react faster for better control. The holes in the Z drums were re-drilled and a collar was added to fill in the size difference. I still need to machine down the collar bevel a tiny amount to get the drum to seat properly. The Pinto drum can be taken out to 9.060 and the Z drums go to 9.055. For the later, larger 8 inch rear drum Pintos, it looks like a 1/4 inch spacer behind the backing plate may be nessesary to align/center the shoes correctly in the Z drum. The smaller 6.75 rear end drums look like the correct offset to start. Updates after I get the drums to seat and I can fully check the operation. the total cost so far: Pair 240Z drums-Pick Your Part $35, Profressional machining: $160, Cost of NEW 240Z drums-$270 pair. The fun of doing something a little different-PRICELESS ;D
Original 1976 Pinto Drum and Two 240Z Drums
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05331.jpg)
Original Pinto Max. Size 9.060
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05334.jpg)
Original 240Z Max. Size 9.055
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05348.jpg)
Re-Drilled Holes to 4.25 Ford Pattern
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05333.jpg)
Mounted But Not Fully Seated
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05337.jpg)
Testing the Offset of the Z Drum and my 15X7 Inch Junk Yard Wheels
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05339.jpg)
Inside Clearance of Wheel to Fenderwell without Spacers.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05341.jpg)
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I gotta hand it to you. You are one clever guy.
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I gotta hand it to you. You are one clever guy.
Thanks SRT, as you may guess, I'm more into the go than the show when it comes to building a race car (but I do like to show how I make it go ;D). It's the little things that add up to make the difference between a front runner and a back marker. This Pinto will hopefully represent a little different image at the local So. Cal. road courses. Once sorted, I will be racing in B Sedan against early 912/911s, Alfas, BMW 1600/2002s, 510s, Lotus Cortinas, and 3.8L Jags, etc. These guys take no prisoners. They're in for a rude one ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC03816.jpg)
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I weighed the aluminum 240Z drums and the 76 Pinto cast iron originals to get a real idea of the difference.... .4 LBS lighter EACH Drum ;D I talked with a racer buddy who is also an engineer. He is telling me that for each LB LESS of rotating weight (mass), I should realize 3 more FT LBS to the ground. If this is true, I get 24 (4lbs+4lbs=8X3=24ft lbs) more accelerating HP that would be wasted on the engine trying to over come the resistance of the heft :hypno: I have 133 ft lbs total to work with. If 24 of those are freed up, that's a PLUS 17%. My little 1600 chainsaw motor on steriods needs every tiny edge I can find. :fastcar:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05331.jpg)
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Well I got a little done on the Pinto with mixed results. I tried to straighten the very bent shifter shaft on the Type 9 (T-9) but broke the little plastic retaining stubs. Now I need another one. I rationalized that it was too far gone anyway.....it was'nt... :lost:
The good news is that I went to Pick Your Part looking for a Type 9 Shifter (did not find it), I did found a nifty mini center console from a Capri II. I can fit two gauges where the clock delete plate is or maybe my shift light. This was the FIRST time I went to two junk yards in the same weekend and did'nt see one Pinto. I have be seeing at least ONE every time for the last 10 trips straight. Mustang II yes... Maverick yes... Merkur yes... but an auto trans...DANG!
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05516.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05514.jpg)
I also made a little Resto progress on my Pick Your Part 15X7 Wheels I got a couple of months back.
Fresh from the junk yard ...
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05192.jpg)
Road rash removed and Centers restored... I still need to put in HOURS of polishing....
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05520.jpg)
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I got some test fitting done on the Pinto with the 240Z Aluminum drums after the machinist did some touch-up fitting to seat them correctly on the axle flange. I may need to fab a 1/4 inch spacer behind the backing plate to dead center the shoes but may get away with not. You can see the small gap in the closeup picture. I also played with a 1 inch wheel spacer that I had and one of my race rims. I think I will need to go 1/2 to 3/4 inch instead of the 1 inch but I'll know better when I get tires. I planned for 205X50X15 @ 22.8 inches. :fastcar:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05526.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05525.jpg)
I was also able to re-thread (metric 10mmX1.5 Die-same as Pinto 4-speed) and mount a Lotus knob on the cut off Type 9 stick shift assembly Bill (Blink77) was kind enough to send to me after I nuked mine :hangover:.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05548.jpg)
With console and nicer Pick Your Part shift boot from a 5.0 Fox Mustang.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05585.jpg)
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CHARLES
Thanks for the ANDREW JACKSON.
BILL
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CHARLES
Thanks for the ANDREW JACKSON.
BILL
Bill, thanks for taking the time to hunt it down, take pics, and send it on to me, it works perfectly and the height was just about where I would have cut mine anyway ;D. Another derelict part pressed into service.... :fastcar:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05531.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05578.jpg)
With the Capri Console I got on the previous junk yard trip with a nicer looking leatherette Shift Boot fresh from Pick Your Part $3
Before
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05513.jpg)
After
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05591.jpg)
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CHARLES
Just happy to see any of these parts get used. I know I
saved this stuff for a reason. Nice job on the tranny!!!!
BILL
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It took me 5 tries to get the wrong throw out bearing so I gave in and had the yoke of the Type 9 bearing retainer turned down to the correct 2.0L/2.3L slip yoke size ($60). The problem is that there are two 2.3L sizes listed. The Type 9 matches the 2.3L and 3.8L, and 5.0L slip yoke size but it is no longer made for my Tilton 1 Disc race setup (too much torque for a one disc is my guess). The 2.0L/2.3L in the books is too small to fit on the Type 9 yoke. After turning down the yoke diameter to work with the smaller bearing diameter, I have an unlimited supply of bearings ;D
Tall race bearing next to a Stock 2.3L, 3.8L. 5.0L one.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05603.jpg)
Turned down slide yoke to fit the bearing.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05601.jpg)
Another view.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05600.jpg)
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I had my brakes drilled for racing today at C H Topping Brakes in Long Beach. Ca. They did them for $50 each and checked the used 240Z Aluminum drums for warpage (none). The 71 Pinto Discs have flash rust but they are near new. This trick makes these ALL SEASON for the street. They will brake better in wet or dry as the gases and water are re-routed. Cheap insurance at $50 each. IMHO
:accident:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05593.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05598.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05595.jpg)
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71HANTO thank you thank you thank you for posting your progress.
Leonard
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charles the car is looking good, cant wait to see the spolier on the car now!!
keep up the great work
eric
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I had a chance to clean up the original 24K mile 2.0L alternator and add an underdrive aluminum pulley to save it's life in SUSTAINED high RPM race conditions. The added benefit is less drag on the engine giving me a little more acceleration. The 71 pulley is in front for size comparison. The only downside is I probably won't be rolling with my 1000 watt stereo cranked while charging my cel phone during a race ::) I had a lite weight Mitsubishi alternator I used in the Lotus Cortina but to keep it I would need to do wiring mods to the untouched 71 Pinto wiring harness. By staying 71 Pinto, I'm taking maybe a pound and a half weight penalty for the compromise but it looks period correct unlike the mobern Mitsubishi unit anyway. What looks like rust in the back of the Pinto unit is actually factory paint ;D
The numbers on the 1971 Pinto Autolite alternator are: 15V 42A D0AF 10300 G NEG :fastcar:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05769.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05771.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05773.jpg)
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I also had a chance to clean up the 1971 vintage 240Z aluminum brake drums, hand chamfer the venting holes C H Topping drilled in them, and test fit the 1976 Pinto 8 inch rear spec brake pads. The width of the pad in the drum looks perfect ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05768.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05767.jpg)
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it looks like its coming together nicely!!! keep up the great work charles!! and post some more pics!!!
eric
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Thanks Eric, you asked for 'em....the first picture is of the Mitsubishi Alternator with a Cortina Generator front pulley installed to help hide the modernness but I decided not to leave it and have to butcher the original wiring harness just to make it work. The next picture the original Pinto Alternator that my car was born with waiting for a larger diameter drive belt. The third picture is an original 2 ton Lucas Generator that the Cortinas came with (6 Volt!) :o.
I had to adapt the Pinto Alternator to the Cortina generator bracket using a sleeve, enlarging holes, and repositioning the bracket with new mounting holes to get perfect alignment with the other pulleys. I used another extra part from my 69 Mustang. The upper bracket has a Ford C9 # stamped in it. I like the fact that the Pinto unit sits low but I weighed it and its exactly 2 LBS heavier than the Mitsubishi unit >:( Oh well, It means I have to get more aggressive somewhere else. :fastcar:
Mitsubishi Alternator with Cortina Generator Pulley:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05777.jpg)
Pinto Alternator with underdrive aluminum Pulley and a little shined up:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05785.jpg)
Cortina heavy weight Generator fit for a WWII tank:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05784.jpg)
Size Difference Pinto/Mitsubishi:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05780.jpg)
A better view showing adapted Cortina and Mustang brackets:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05787.jpg)
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This side view shows what I'm using for exhaust instead of full tube headers ??? :lost:. This cast iron header is from a 1971 Lotus Twin Cam Elan ($25 E-bay six miles from my house ;D). I am planning on 7500 RPM MAX (limited with a 6AL chip). This engine pulls easily through 8500 RPM.... if I let it....after it passes 9000 RPM, it becomes a potential "Bouncing Betty" :hypno:
This cast iron header will be extrude-honed to flow as well as a tube header up to 7500 RPM. This exhaust tuning increases the useable torque throughout the low and mid RPM ranges by moving the peak torque level lower on the RPM curve. The higher end is completely sacrificed but is no longer needed because of the 5 speed. I get less under-hood heat and the cast iron header should weigh about the same as a nest full of tube headers once it's been extrude-honed and I smooth and remove some of the extra outside material also.
For the tight twisties torque rules. However, I could have spun to 8500 RPM with a four speed to get the same race times with a shorter engine life. No thanks $$$ ;D The Type 9, 5 speed allows me to use the mechanical leverage advantage of semi-radical 4.62 rear gears that multiply my electronically limited RPM and turn it into usable torque on the track and the street. I get a top speed of 137 MPH with 22.8 inch tires. The 1974 Hanto Lotus/Pinto 5 speed Prototype allows me to race with 5 gears against the others limited by the vintage racing rules to only 4 :2fast4u: I could still race at the events with a renegade 5 speed without the borrowed Hanto pedigree but I would be limited to racing in the "exhibition class". This class is where all the cars that don't fit the vintage requirements get lumped together on one grid. The speed differential of the oddball cars racing together means I'm racing in my rearview mirror watching for some nut case with a twin turbo'ed Viper working the course mixed in with 30, 40 year old cars :accident: Thanks Mr. Hansen, for helping me stay out of the junk yard wars wherever you are..... :drunk:
http://blog.themustangguys.com/Hantopinto.jpg (http://blog.themustangguys.com/Hantopinto.jpg)
http://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2006/09/17/the-hanto-pinto/ (http://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2006/09/17/the-hanto-pinto/)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05796.jpg)
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Here's a short cut to faster track times....losin g weight :lol: The first picture shows an original Pinto sized battery next to the 12V motorcycle battery that I will be using. Most racers (those who use on-board batteries) go with the gel cell pictured but they're still heavy. :hangover: The motorcycle battery weighs 17LBS and the Pinto battery weighs in at a hefty 41LBS. :hangover: I save a net 24LBS ;D I will put it in the rear passanger side foot-well to counter some of my heft :amazed: and keep the center of gravity low and away from the fuel cell in the trunk :fastcar:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05798.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05806.jpg)
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Hello, my first visit to the forum...do not know how it works! Fordfestiva forum is easier! Anyway, I had a 73 Pinto..in 1982 it was the frist car I bought. It was a medium blue runabout with the deluxe trim package in and out...window and drip moldings chrome, thin vinyl insert bodyside moldings, deluxe wheel covers, no rub strips on the bumpers though. Two tone blue interior...dar k blue and light blue in the middle. Cargo carpet. It was a 2.0 automatic with no air. It did have disc brakes...not power though. I LOVED that car. It was a lot of fun to drive.
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Hello, my first visit to the forum...do not know how it works! Fordfestiva forum is easier! Anyway, I had a 73 Pinto..in 1982 it was the frist car I bought. It was a medium blue runabout with the deluxe trim package in and out...window and drip moldings chrome, thin vinyl insert bodyside moldings, deluxe wheel covers, no rub strips on the bumpers though. Two tone blue interior...dar k blue and light blue in the middle. Cargo carpet. It was a 2.0 automatic with no air. It did have disc brakes...not power though. I LOVED that car. It was a lot of fun to drive.
:welcome: A lot of great information on this site but you do have to dig a little if you find the Pinto bug bites you!!! ;D
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:welcome: stevewl1164!
This site's not hard to navigate at all, once you get used to it. I've never been on the Ford Festiva forum but I can tell you that, in my opinion, this is one of the best run sites anywhere - our administrators really care about what's happening and do whatever it takes to make it work.
Dwayne :smile:
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Here is a cheap, easy, repair and prevention of the easily broken early door pulls. They are weak and the collar that holds the mounting screw pulls through. I repaired 3 broken out collars and one cracked one that was still connected. I added a bunch of JB Weld to the back of the mounting area to spread the forces of the pull to a larger surface area. The door pulls can stand up to much more force now ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05892.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05891.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05893.jpg)
It needs straightening a little but here is the finished product-no more worries ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05894.jpg)
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Awesome fix! Thanks for posting it, I feel it will come in handy for many many pre 74' owners!
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Here's a little tip to make your own gaskets or duplicate a mass of flat parts without having to do a bunch of tracing. This works really well with even very complex gaskets if you have the old one to use as a pattern. Critical if the gaskets are obsolete. The picture below is of the outline of the aluminum spacers I will be stacking behind the Pinto brake backing plate to exactly center the 240Z drums to the Pinto shoes. You can see I took the 8 inch rear metal bearing retainer gasket and over sprayed it with black rattle can paint on the aluminum 1/8 inch stock for contrast. When I make a gasket using black/dark gray gasket material, I spray it using a white paint for contrast then trim it with scissors, utility knife, or for really fine work, an Exacto hobby knife. I made two 8 inch rear center section gaskets this way when I had trouble finding one for me and one for Fastbak390.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06005.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06006.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06007.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06008.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06010.jpg)
1/8 Spacer plates stacked (2 per side) ready for the Pinto backing plate and shoes, now correctly centered with 240Z Aluminum Drums.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06014.jpg)
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I finally had a little time and brief weakness in my procrastinatio n today to finish taking care of the 240Z drum to Pinto brake backing plate offset difference. Now they're dead on :fastcar:
Before the fab'ed spacers/shims... a 1/4 inch offset gap I needed to fill....
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05526.jpg)
With the aluminum spacers in place.....No more gap ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06021.jpg)
Final test fit with the 240Z Drum ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06022.jpg)
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I sold my Lotus Cortina project yesterday :'( and going FULL BORE PINTO ;D
Here's a Pinto option you don't see too often :look: A Pinto 1500!!!??? I removed the Lotus Twin Cam to do the final fitting and detailing of the drive-train. In it's place is a low mile 1965 1500 Deluxe Cortina engine. It's a direct bolt-in for the 1600 and 2000 Pinto and is THE Daddy of the Pinto 1600. I will use this engine to do things like drive and leave the Pinto at the paint shop, the welding shop that will be putting in my roll cage, etc, without having to worrying about high dollar parts disappearing in someone else's care :evil: I'll also get a chance to test and tune the suspension without putting unnecessary miles on the Lotus Twin Cam. I had promised Fastbak390 that I would get it running a couple of years ago. I just didn't know it was going to be a test mule engine for a Pinto race car :fastcar:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06042.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06043.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06048.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06033.jpg)
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I admire your dedication to the Pinto by selling one of your other projects. I do feel for you, for having to let go of it though. Perhaps later in the future you might get the chance to pursue it again?
I love your idea for making obsolete gaskets, it really makes things easier, and I will be doing this when I rebuild my 4spd tranny which no parts are available for!
Keep up the good work, and here's to hoping you get every bit of enjoyment AND MORE from this little racer of yours! :drunk:
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Thanks Dave, I felt a little tweaked seeing it being loaded up into the truck but I kept the main heart of the car (the fun part). The full boogie race engine. I sent my spare backup engine with the deal. He still got a killer deal (the economy). I know it went to the right guy (an active vintage Lotus racer) :fastcar: I stayed with the Lotus/Pinto because I felt it had better technical and engineering potential than the Mark 1 Cortina (for CHEAP ;D). I'm building this car to be safe and stable at 130+ MPH on the super speedways once or twice a year (road race the rest of the time). The 71 Pinto has about a 5 inch wider track and a much lower center of gravity than the Cortina. Plus, you can get much more tire under the Pinto and they're roughly the same weight cars to start with. I know which car I want to be in on the starting race grid ;D :2fast4u:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06025.jpg)
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Here was a confidence builder for me (laziness can be the mother of invention). I did'nt want the go through the hassle of trying to track down this 1976 8 inch rear brake shoe cable that was holding up my project or humbly beg for one on this site, so I decided hay... what the hay...try to repair it. It took some finesse, patience, a cold chisel, hammer, and needle nose pliers but it turned out almost factory for all of 11 cents of cable from the hardware store ;D
Parts to start the project with and the original frayed cable that caused me the headache :mad:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06059.jpg)
Opened up with the new cable laying in it... just needing to be crimped
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06062.jpg)
The finished part....and with a little clean up....ready to go on ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC06063.jpg)
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Ah yes...Necessit y, the mother of invention
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The delivery man brought Pinto CANDY to my door today and it won't rot my teeth! ;D ;D ;D ;D
8 gal. Fuel Cell fits in the spare wheel well...no cutting :amazed:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06069.jpg)
All the bells and whistles ;D ..... Less chance of me becoming the main course at a Car-B-Que ::)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06070.jpg)
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VERY COOL!
Dwayne :smile:
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I was able to remove enough stuff out of the trunk to test fit the fuel cell today after work. I need to remove the spare tire hold down loop so the cell with fit down in flat and flush. It looks like I will still have room to carry suitcases during a race if I want to :surprised:
The raw trunk well with the original build sheet stuck to it.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06077.jpg)
Plenty of room in the tire well AND it's on the counter weight side of me ;D :fastcar:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06075-1.jpg)
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That is a neat fuel cell and I give you a hats off for being very creative in the ways to even out the weight ratio and the weight itself to favor the car's performance. Awesome work!
-beegle55
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Where and how much did you get that Fuel cell for? Id like one that was in the Spare tire well. =)
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Thanks Guys, This is a fairly new product from ATL (WWW.ATLINC.COM (http://WWW.ATLINC.COM)). I promised the Misses I would fund the Cell from the sale of my Cortina. These Start at about $470. HOWEVER, I added ALL of the available options to pump the price up a bit. The extras included: Fuel Sender with Cockpit Gauge,Trunk Dip Stick (so it can be read while filling or in case of gauge failure), Surge Tank for road racing, Aluminum Top, and Short Fill Neck(to save weight). The final bill: $1015. :hypno: This is an all out race car so what price do I put on my life? I guess I should have written a memo to my self like ford did to see if I was worth it....I did it anyway ;D
Beegle55, You have a Primo drag car there. I'm jealous it's done and running (their never REALLY ever done). I had my drag racing days back in the 80's with a SLEEPER. I know that is WAY over used but you be the judge. I took a 1979 Oldsmobile Cutless Supreme DIESEL and dropped in a built 350 Chevy and added 150HP shot of NITRUS just to liven things up a little more. This was during a time when the HOT Mustang coming out of Detroit had 195HP. The Corvette had about 265. I was putting close to 400HP at the rear wheels. I raced on the street (you didn't read that Fastbak390) and at the Los Angeles County Raceway, (was in Palmdale), Drag Strip. The car was undefeated on the bottle for three years til I blew the rings. Nothing humiliates them more than blowing their doors off with an empty kiddie seat visible in the back seat. The only clue that they were about to be had was the XDIESEL license plate. SMOG EXEMPT IN CALIFORNIA. I could (and did) build ANYTHING I wanted with a registered diesel. I think a few folks sold their Corvettes and Firebirds after feeling a little too confident against a car with a kiddie seat and a bug deflector shield on the front (it threw the air over the windshield for much better aerodynamics with this brick, believe it or not-think of an upside down air dam). I really loved the ones with their girlfriends... . :devil:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/scan0001.jpg)
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71Hanto,
You are on my wavelength with the fuel cell :D My 72 Runabout (hatch)needs a cell for my hillclimb racing anyway, But I have to go into major bulkhead design to separate the drivers compartment. The only question I have is: Does the "well cell sit deeply enough into the pocket to allow for a sloping remote fill tube using the original opening in the fender? I want a 10 gallon capacity or more. but the Depth issue might interfere. I don't want to cut up the floor to install a standard cell, as I need the strength ;) of the floor and don't want to go all the way with a subframe (Yet!)
My car is always a work in progress, ideas abound.
Pintosopher
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Beegle55, You have a Primo drag car there. I'm jealous it's done and running (their never REALLY ever done). I had my drag racing days back in the 80's with a SLEEPER. I know that is WAY over used but you be the judge. I took a 1979 Oldsmobile Cutless Supreme DIESEL and dropped in a built 350 Chevy and added 150HP shot of NITRIUS just to liven things up a little more. This was during a time when the HOT Mustang coming out of Detroit had 195HP. The Corvette had about 265. I was putting close to 400HP at the rear wheels. I raced on the street (you didn't read that Fastbak390) and at Los Angeles County Raceway in Palmdale, CA. Drag Strip. The car was undefeated on the bottle for three years til I blew the rings. Nothing humiliates them more than blowing their doors off with an empty kiddie seat visible in the back seat. The only clue that they were about to be had was the XDIESEL licience plate. SMOG EXEMPT IN CALIFORNIA. I could (and did) build ANYTHING I wanted with a registered diesel. I think a few folks sold their Corvettes and Firebirds after feeling a little too confident against a car with a kiddie seat and a bug deflector shield on the front (it threw the air over the windshield for much better aerodynamics with this brick believe it or not). I loved the ones with their girlfriends... . :devil:
You've got to appreciate a good sleeper story! I need to replace the carpet and do a little work to the interior of my Pinto and after being ran almost every weekend from 1996 to 2002 it could use to be rebuild and freshened up a bit to run in the prime. It was putting down 500 HP, about the max you can go in the 302 block we are using.
-beegle55
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71Hanto,
You are on my wavelength with the fuel cell :D My 72 Runabout (hatch)needs a cell for my hillclimb racing anyway, But I have to go into major bulkhead design to separate the drivers compartment. The only question I have is: Does the "well cell sit deeply enough into the pocket to allow for a sloping remote fill tube using the original opening in the fender? I want a 10 gallon capacity or more. but the Depth issue might interfere. I don't want to cut up the floor to install a standard cell, as I need the strength ;) of the floor and don't want to go all the way with a subframe (Yet!)
My car is always a work in progress, ideas abound.
Pintosopher
Pintosopher,
This is the information from page 15 of their catalog (http://www.atlinc.com/catalogs.html (http://www.atlinc.com/catalogs.html)) 12gal 45Ltr Part# 171110 17lbs. WellCell 22” Dia. 8.00" high #6 size filler neck
The cell fits flush on the bottom with the spare tire loop removed so you can measure up from there. I hope it works for you. You're going to have a pretty long run from the filler on the opposite side... :drunk:
71HANTO
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71 Hanto,
Many tanks for the Info ;D I would hope the filler tube length won't be a issue,If it will flow fast enough. Of course, a double drybreak aimed at the Hatch glass ( ala Roush Trans Am mustang) would be Sooo Cool 8) Probably not a good option for future Vintage endeavours (B-sedan, 2.5 etc)
Yours is soo right there..
Pintosopher
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Pintosopher,
Thanks for the proverbial thumbs up ;D I may have a solution for your long running pipe issue but it will take some sheet metal welding and bodywork. ATL will build a fuel cell neck that goes out in any direction you want. Why not ADD a standard Pinto gas filler assembly from a drivers side of a donor Pinto to the passenger side where the fuel cell is? I bet most pinto owners would not even notice there was one on the wrong side :lost: You would have the option of placing it higher up on the back pillar for a straighter shot with better fill velocity into the cell ;D
71HANTO
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Unless you have a NASCAR cage in your Pinto, the long filler neck would be the first thing to go if you got rear ended. Many of the early Trans-Am car had the filler cap (before dry breaks) come out in the center of the deck lid or in the center in place of the trunk lock.
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Nothing humiliates them more than blowing their doors off with an empty kiddie seat visible in the back seat. The only clue that they were about to be had was the XDIESEL license plate.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/scan0001.jpg)
Great sleeper. Love the trailer ball on the back. By the looks of the wheels and tires I bet this car went around corners pretty well also.
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Great sleeper. Love the trailer ball on the back. By the looks of the wheels and tires I bet this car went around corners pretty well also.
Thanks, the car was too heavy to be a real canyon carver with power EVERYTHING. The trailer hitch was used to pull the same boat as my wife's 80 Pinto wagon (pics near the start of this thread). I put a large anti-sway bar in the front and used my favorite cheap handling trick....using spring clamps to lower the front and raise the back. It stiffens the springs either way. About $25 did all four ;D
I cloned the car into an extremely rare PERFORMANCE version of the 79 Cutless called the W-30. No one bought it when it came out and no one remembers it now. People back then thought of Oldsmobile as your "DAD"s, or more likely your "GRANDFATHER's" choice...ZERO performance image :amazed: I have a habit of cloning cars now that I think about it....I just can't leave things alone :evil: My 351W 69 convertible Mustang is a GT clone. My daily driver is a 2000 GT Mustang convertible Cobra clone (the Misses rapidly and unexpectedly modified the original bumpers :accident:) The Cobra bumpers came up on e-bay before the original GTs so I bought 'em. The Cougar XR-7 that I sold (Fastbak390's high school ride) was an Eliminator clone. One of the cars I sold (owned it for 10 years) that didn't need to be cloned...the real deal...was a 1970 Mustang convertible 428 R-Code. They made a total of 47 convertible 428s in 1970, both Q and R codes , 5 being special prep'd Pace Cars. The 1970 Shelby's were just re-badged 69s with the stipes added, they were all leftover 69s (335 total). Just to make it MORE unusual was the fact that it was painted by the factory Lincoln Mark III blue. 1 of 1 but, a terrible, dangerous, unbalanced piece of S*&! that should not have been released to the public. The engine torque twisted the convertible unibody and it was SO unbalanced, it was like driving on ice even when the road was just DAMP :accident:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/763b.jpg)
My Pinto is my interpretation of the 1974 Lotus powered Hanto Pinto. The reason I cloned the HANTO Pinto is so I can legally go vintage racing with a Lotus twin cam engine and 5-speed. The original Hanto was blue with a white stripe. Mine will stay the almost British Racing Green (original color of my car) with silver numbers. I'm also thinking about maybe doing numbers in airbrushed flames like below but with burning Pintos instead of Demons (sorry Dodge :devil:)....IF race legal to do it ???....no plans for any stripes. We'll see....;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Flames.jpg)
I thought I was getting Deja Vu all over again ??? when I found my Pinto wheels in the junk yard....NOW I remember why....I had similar ones on the Oldsmobile.... almost 30 years ago ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC05517.jpg)
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Found this YouTube video that gave me a little taste of what I may be in for ;D...TURN THE SOUND UP...and enjoy a little different view of a Pinto road racing ;D :2fast4u:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmN4EnsrzVs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmN4EnsrzVs)
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Very nice! Nothing like making sure the Lancer stays behind you! :surprised:
Chuck
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OK..I guess this Pinto is not going to make ANYTHING easy on me :hypno: PROBLEM...RACI NG WHEEL STUDS for a 71 Disc Brake Pinto-NOT AVAILABLE >:( So I must adapt again :lost: The pictures tell the story of how I to put in the adapted studs the old fashioned way...by hand :mad: I used a Ford Cortina wheel as the jig. The English wheels are much more robust and finely made, with better metal than the Pinto wheel, and I MUST have precision for what I am doing with this Pinto. I left in two original studs to use as locators as I tightened the wheel nuts (greased WELL) to draw the racing studs (NO grease) through the holes with the little machined spacers. Taping from behind a few times as I cranked on the wheel nuts to get them to seat properly. 100% success but that was a breaker bar work out :sleep: Those are L O N G studs a 1/4 turn at a time :drunk:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06162.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06166.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06167.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06168.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06171.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06172.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06176.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06175.jpg)
DONE... ;D ;D ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06188-1.jpg)
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I really loved the ones with their girlfriends... . :devil:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/scan0001.jpg)
I just had to add to this....out of guilt :devil: I had a special race pattern for the ones with their girlfriends sitting next to them....I would sand bag off the line...give'em a couple of car lengths til' I got her looking back with a BIG Grin ;D...then hit the red button on the shifter and fry the meats all the way past'em....thinking back...that was an evil thing to do to the poor guy hoping to get lucky...sorry man :showback:
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I had to order the EXTRA, EXTRA, EXTRA LARGE size at the pharmacy but it JUST fit :hypno: The house is getting painted ;D
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06465.jpg)
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Nice write up....great car...cool motor
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Thanks Volksnut,
I've hit more than my share of snags along the way with this project but I am full steam ahead after this weekend (LONG story). Hopefully this period correct repop'd Lotus badge is what the competition sees ahead of them... GOING BYE BYE... :2fast4u:
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06477.jpg)
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RE-figured...Here are some NEW engineering numbers taking into account more variables missed the first time. This info is from a fellow vintage racer who is an engineer by trade. He helped sort out what the potential differences will be on the track...I LIKE IT!!! Thanks, Roger...:drunk: He figured lbs pressure per inch of travel (the up and down distance of lower A-arm suspension during movement). A one off 1971-72, 1 1/8" Hollow bar is compared to a 7/8" Solid bar both from ADDCO. Bottom line...440lbs for the Hollow 1 1/8" bar and 169lbs for the Solid 7/8" bar. A HUGE difference on paper :read:. We'll see how this theory works on the track.??? I borrowed this technology from my 2000 Mustang Cobra clone. I put it on and it made a dramatic difference over the stock GT bar just going up from 1" hollow to 1 1/8" hollow. It sold me ;D The larger hollow Pinto bar weighs only 2 LBS more than the smaller bar at 15 lbs vs. 13 lbs ;D ;D ;D
The two bars end to end...
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06515.jpg)
The Hollow end of the 1 1/8"...
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06513.jpg)
This is the 1977 Ranchero REAR bar I am adapting to the 8 inch Pinto rear (NO gas tank interference). You must have vision to see how this goes on. It clamps onto the rear end housing tubes with U-bolts and regular bushing holders (not shown). The front links will be welded/bolted depending on where/how they land on the uni-body frame.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06518.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC06519.jpg)
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That ain't a bad idea.. Quite the visonarry you are ;D
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That ain't a bad idea.. Quite the visonarry you are ;D
Thanks, I'm trying find every tiny advantage I can...gotta' go kick some serious A$$ on the track...:fastcar:
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71HANTO...upda te. I've been out of the game due to some major life changes (all good) but this last weekend I received tentitive approval by the president of the west coast chapter of Vintage Auto Racing Assoc. (VARA) and the Chief Tech Inspecter to race the 71 Hanto Pinto as a homologated vintage race car. Subject only to my providing proof of the existance of the original 1975 Hanto Pinto (easy to do). This means I won't be thrown in with the exibition class of misfits. I will be racing with 510s, Lotus Cortinas, 912s, etc. It also means I can race for points instead of being an "also ran". :fastcar:
71HANTO
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It took me years to find a copy of the original Hanto Pinto article but here it is:
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/HANTO/HANTO1974.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/HANTO/HANTO1974-2.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/HANTO/HANTO1974-3.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/HANTO/HANTO1974-4.jpg)
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This is an amazing build. I have been following it with interest since the beginning.
I hope you have time to get back to it.
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Thanks Starliner,
I have been doing some quiet progress and will have a primered roller for Carlisle. Here are some resent pics of the progress as of last Thursday (getting soda blasted). I will be trailering it complete or not. It will be a roller with motor, trans, plasic windows and fiberglass hood, doors and bumpers. The race tires are on the rims ready to go (Toyo R888's 205 50 15s). The glass trunk lid I got from Canada is trash and unusable (took four months to get and it's junk). So i'm using the original steel one (still pretty light). My son is driving his 71 from Texas and we are meeting up there. The big push is AFTER this event to get it fully sorted for Trans-Am vintage racing...
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC07929.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC07852.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0450.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0466.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_3353.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_3359.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_3357.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_3356.jpg)
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I ran across this post in a British car forum from 2007...
71HANTO
"I didn't know *where* to put this one since it's a US car with a Brit engine (isn't it usually the opposite is done?)
Anyway, I took this at Lime Rock about 35 years ago. I found it while I was scanning some other old pictures.
The event was one of the early Car & Driver Showroom Stock Sedan events. I know C&D brought their "00" Pinto but I think Bruce Cargill won in an SSS Dodge Colt (I think).
This thing didn't race but was in the pits and attracted mucho attention.
It's not a Pangra but a sort of similar idea with a Jensen/Lotus 907 engine. Name on the side is "Hanto".
Anyone recall these?"
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/HANTO/pinto-907-lr-70.jpg)
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WOW it's been a long time since my last update but I finally solved the major last roadblock to my progress. How to make a starter work on my Frankenstein of put togather parts. The problem was using a 3 hole mount bell housing (2.0L) from a 1971 pinto and mating it to a Ford Lotus block (1966) that normally used a 2 hole starter mount. 2 more issues, a smaller Lotus flywheel with different sized teeth. No one on earth makes an adapter (I know I looked for years). It kept me up nights. I finally found a machine shop that would take on the challange. They promised the job in 2.5 weeks but it took 3.5 months and below are the results. Pure art work at $260. Now I have NO excuse not to finish this project ;D 71HANTO
Original 3 hole Pinto starter with the XLT race starter (1/3 of the weight) and adapter plates 2 hole and new 3 hole.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08284.jpg)
Comparing the Pinto original and the adapted race starter.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08288.jpg)
Closeup of the different toothed gears. They look close but no cigar.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08286.jpg)
Closeup of the Lotus plate and the new plate. Both fully indexable.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08285.jpg)
This side shows the installed bearing in the new plate taken from the Lotus plate.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08287.jpg)
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glad to see that you are still working strong on the project! keep up the good work!
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I have the original tri-fold brochure for the hanto pinto. I will find it and scan it. I have a few I think. If I have more than one I will gladly send you one.
thanks,
Douglas Johnson
"Skrach"
www.VividlyVintage.com (http://www.VividlyVintage.com)
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I have the original tri-fold brochure for the hanto pinto. I will find it and scan it. I have a few I think. If I have more than one I will gladly send you one.
Douglas, PM Sent
71HANTO
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I was able to test fit the adapted starter by removing the transmission from the bell housing and rebolting the bell back on to the block. I put a hose clamp on the starter behind the gear so when I mounted it to the bell it would be fully extended to test the meshing of the starter gear to the flywheel. It's dead on. It is hard to see from this picture angle (taken through the bell opening) but there is about 1/16th of an inch of space before the gear bottoms out into the flywheel gear. Not bad for handing the Machinest an extra lotus flywheel, the starter and a sandwich plate from a 2.0L (no bell, no block). ;)
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08289.jpg)
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Any updates? Quite an amazing car would love to see video of the race.
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It's been a while since I posted progress. I have been splitting my free time between the Lotus Pinto and my street Pinto. I have been massively reworking the glass doors, hood, and trunk taking out the waviness, dips, bumps, and adding glass to get the gaps closer to factory on the Lotus Pinto. It has been way more time consuming than I thought it would be. OCD can be fun ;) . I'll post pictures once it's back in primer. I changed the front disc spindles to 73s to get to use the larger beefier tie rod ends. I then had a custom bump steer kit machined so I could still use the 71-72 Wilwood rack.
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08491_zps1a110b96.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08495_zpsa22d4804.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/DSC08497_zpsfd38efee.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/434777fb-0724-46af-a6e3-1fe1755551fb_zpsb788c93b.jpg)
I have also added a section to the rear spoiler I got from MAP351. I wanted it line up with the edge of the glass trunk lid. I have not done glass work since my surfboard days but I think it turned out pretty good. :)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC08479_zps6f2b6c63.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/DSC08481_zps200cc741.jpg)
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Can't wait to see the pictures!!!
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from a really old post.....
".....I cloned the car into an extremely rare PERFORMANCE version of the 79 Cutlass called the W-30. No one bought it when it came out and no one remembers it now...."
I remember those cars! Funny, I don't FEEL that old (most days!)
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from a really old post.....
".....I cloned the car into an extremely rare PERFORMANCE version of the 79 Cutlass called the W-30. No one bought it when it came out and no one remembers it now...."
I remember those cars! Funny, I don't FEEL that old (most days!)
I don't feel old myself until I look in the mirror...
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I don't feel old myself until I look in the mirror...
You're looking in the wrong mirror,lol.. ;D ;D
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Well, I guess I don't get better lookin each Day! But I do get a bit more likable after a few Brews. ;D
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Well, I guess I don't get better lookin each Day! But I do get a bit more likable after a few Brews. ;D
LOL.. ;D ;D ;D
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Well, the glass work slowed me down on the HANTO but I see the light at the end of the tunnel. It's starting to look like a race car. Getting closer to paint. A lot of hours went into fiberglass body panel fit. The front air dam went on last evening after work but still needs a little adjustment and some support bracing. I had to cut 3/4 of an inch out of the center to make it fit. The rear spoiler has about a 1/2 inch ADDED to make it fit flush end to end. Every piece of fiberglass had to have some type of major work but I am just about there. Dearborn or bust!
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0009_zps265c1cfb.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0011_zps6757a47e.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0020_zps2fdbac09-1.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0019_zpsbd4352bd.jpg)
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Looks good..
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You've gone this far, so why not glass bumpers? Car looks greeeeeat. Keep up the good work.
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You've gone this far, so why not glass bumpers? Car looks greeeeeat. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, got it covered. I also want to fab some bumper brackets out of aluminum as the originals weight a ton. My mantra is: "if you want to go fast, add lightness"
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_00221_zps1da8b783.jpg)
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RIGHT ON!!!!
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IS THAT THE FRONT SPOLIER YOU GOT FROM ME? LOOKS AWESOME!!!
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IS THAT THE FRONT SPOLIER YOU GOT FROM ME? LOOKS AWESOME!!!
Hi bbobcat75,
I did not end up using the one I got from you. I bought a larger one and figured bigger was better for most of the smaller (slower) twisty tracks I race on.
71HANTO
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I got some important things done since my last post that I can check off my list getting ready for Dearborn in July. I finished all the mounting points for the Lexan windows. A big job to get everything flush with all the compound angles of the window frames. The headlight buckets are one of the worst aerodynamic features of the car as they trap air like little parachutes causing a lot of drag at higher speeds. I decided why fight it when I can take advantage of the pressurized air to cool the brakes (plus less dust up high). So here's my solution. I used hot water heater vent hoods (Home Depot) and plastic 3 inch, 60 degree bend air intake piping (Kragen Auto). I topped it off with motorcycle headlight rock guards. I will be running 3 inch brake cooling hose to a housing that encloses most of the brake rotor.
71HANTO
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0048_zpse7a76fff.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/IMG_0053_zpsdbb5d8e8.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_0050_zpsd07cd6b3.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_00571_zps39575a4c.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_00591_zpsefbec48d.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/71hanto/Pinto/IMG_00601_zps62c809c4.jpg)
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WHAT A GREAT IDEA! AND LOOKS SUPER CLEAN!!
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Nice setup.