Ladies and Gents, the spot weld bit worked pretty darn good!

The bit is very easy to use, but I highly recommend keeping a punch near by. Occasionally, the bit will start to walk away from the desired location. Hit it with a punch (preferably a spring loaded one. a couple times, and go back at it. It took me about 15 minutes to drill out all of the spot welds, pry the two pieces apart with the short end of a crowbar and a hammer, and use a drift to straighten out the drain channels.

It left the floor panel looking like swiss cheese, but in the end, it should really help with welding it back into place on the sub frame, and the parallel lines of holes won't even be noticed!

I don't think you would like to deal with it, Chuck. With such a confined area beneath the dash, I had it real easy at the salvage yard since I had already removed 90% of the interior and the dash. When I cut out my original pan, it won't be so luxurious! I believe I will end up using my brother's air saw rather than a sawzall, since it is smaller and should be much easier to use in such a small space.

Hopefully I can get the whole welding thing down by spring. I should have my windshield and it's gasket replaced by then, possibly the headliner too!

I believe they use sand on the roads here in Boise, now. The roads get really nasty and dirty when the snow starts to melt.

My dad was saying they have switched from salt to magnesium phosphate, but from what I can find, MP is used as a steel treatment to aid against corrosion. I think he was thinking of magnesium chloride, which is an alternative deicer.

I will have to check with the state on this one. I will get back to you all when I find out.