PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => General Pinto Talk => Topic started by: prostang92 on May 13, 2012, 08:55:03 PM
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was looking to install my line lock on my 77/79 pinto. I noticed that the front brakes come out of the master cylinder and then it goes into the proportioning valve, and splites out of there to go to each wheel. All the line locks i see installed remove the prop valve? Is the front of the prop valve actually doing anything other than splitting the lines? any pics or imput?
Chris
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I didn't remove my valve I tee'ed into the line that came from the m/c. Works perfectly in fact I used it tonight when I left a friends birthday party they wanted to see a burnout lol I didn't disappoint
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71Pinto is right . Just put it between the mc and the prop valve. If you loose the factory unit you will have to put in an adjustable prop valve and you will also loose the pressure differential switch that warns of a failure as it is integrated into the distribution block.
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will do , that what I was hopping to do, just heard if theres a shuttle valve in there that it can stick..... ill give it a go then.... thanks
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What they said but I'll add that you want to mount it away from the exhaust. I've cooked one before that was 6 inches from a header tube.
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What they said but I'll add that you want to mount it away from the exhaust. I've cooked one before that was 6 inches from a header tube.
good to know, but I should be safe, not alot of heat on that side...
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee304/HITECHCHRIS/turbo%20pinto/23turbopinto.jpg)
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Does installing the line lock mess with the front to back ratio at all? Drifters use a hydraulic e-brake for the rear with a separate set of calipers from the normal brakes - instead of splicing into the existing lines.
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Line locks don't affect brake bias at all. My dunebuggies use turning brakes to steer when the front wheels are off the ground in a hill climb. They are plumbed inline with the main brakes & have a master cylinder that works each brake separately as I pull the handles. I also use a staging brake plumbed to the fronts as a hill holder with a single handle to activate both fronts simultaneously . Think of it as a manual line lock instead of a solenoid.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/022-1-1.jpg)
The red handles are left & right rear brakes, the blue is the front brakes & the black is the shifter. The master cylinder still controls the brakes like normal when my foot is on the pedal & nothing interferes with normal stopping.
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You have a full picture of that Buggy ? Looks cool, what I can see.
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You have a full picture of that Buggy ? Looks cool, what I can see.
Here's a couple pics. Work got halted a couple years ago but I plan to get back to it at some point. I wanted a low slung single seat rail with a low center of gravity so I built a funny car style cage inside a 2 seater & ended up with this. It should be near impossible to roll & the 113" wheelbase should allow me to climb short, nearly vertical walls with a little momentum.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/021-1-2.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/025-1.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/BeHTHBGkKGrHqEH-EUEreFmQZNRBK75PqYh.jpg)
This is what the chassis looked like set up for 2 seats. You lay back at a 45 degree angle. This keeps the weight low in the chassis for stability.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/im001909-2.jpg)
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Looks like one super cool rig ! Looking forward to seeing it done !