Author Topic: Hello fellow keepers of the flame-A long one from the new guy-71HANTO (Read 59439 times)

71HANTO · « **Reply #30 on:** March 20, 2008, 12:10:05 AM »

Here are some recent pictures of how I adapted a large oval hole 8 inch rear end housing from a 76 Stallion Pinto to fit the small hole mount type springs in my 71 eliminating all the extra isolator junk (weight). I used 1/8 flat metal stock and hand fit the blanks with beveled edges for a stronger weld. A local muffler shop welded all of the bottom and about 60% on the top where they could reach under the axle tube. The shop also cut my Mustang II V8 springs at the same time with their industrial cutoff saw all for $45. Not bad for LA.

I still need to detail the 1976 big brake backing plates before putting in the aluminum pumpkin, seals, and axles.

When I cut down the lowering blocks, I left a fraction of extra metal on them to hand lap them to the curve of rear leaf springs with the added extra leaf I pulled from my 69 mustang.

71HANTO · « **Reply #31 on:** March 28, 2008, 12:55:14 AM »

More photos of progress. I removed the old 71 Pinto rear replacing it with this modified 76 Stallion Pinto 8 inch with the better, bigger, cooler vented brake drums for racing. The new rear with the aluminum center section with it's larger axles weighs in at 148lbs including fluid and the brakes. The original 71 6.75inch weighs 118lbs. A 30lb difference. The Aerostar aluminum drive shaft weight difference should make up for a 1/3 of the weight penalty back over the original drive shaft with the added benefit of less whip saw force to the diff. In other words, less static forces or deadweight to overcome as the rear moves up and down. The new rear has a service rating of 350 FT LBS with the Detroit Locker TruTrax geared Posi and 4.63 gears. The Lotus engine only puts out 133 so it's strength is RPM not grunt... it shines only in a lite car.

I spread out the original springs with 69 mustang donors to show my race tuning choices to mix and match whatever pound and softness ratio works best. Next will come the front suspension rebuild and bushing upgrade with the cut V8 Mustang II springs. I also included a picture of the relatively clean low mile california parts. The leaf springs were obviously originally natural color metal. A little spray lube on the bolts before un-loosening them made the rear removal MUCH easier than I anticipated.

By the way Pintony...You raised the bar on your restoration project so now everything I touch thats staying with the race car.....I have to REST-TEA-FY in my CLONE-IF-A-CATION :hypno: It's all your fault!!!!

dick1172762 · « **Reply #32 on:** March 28, 2008, 03:22:00 PM »

Where did that lite weight third member come from? I want one!!!! Thanks for some better posting in a long time.

71HANTO · « **Reply #33 on:** March 28, 2008, 08:46:08 PM »

Thanks..more pictures will be coming with more progress. I had Currie Enterprises build the rear, press on new axle bearings, and replace the original wheel studs with longer racing type. They're about 50 miles from me and easy to find using a web search. They do top of the line work.

71HANTO · « **Reply #34 on:** April 19, 2008, 10:51:30 PM »

Here are some progress pictures on the rear end springs adding Poly bushings. I turned down 1965 Mustang 9/16 bolt full Poly bushings from Energy Suspension using a drill press with a wood rasp. It takes hours and patience to turn these down correctly with the proper pre-load size while making them all consistent. I used a micrometer and measured as I went. The reason I left the larger flange is to help counter deflection or twist in the rear during hard cornering. I put the springs together using a large secondary leaf from my 1969 Mustang donor. I'm waiting until I can load the car to gauge the proper ride height so I can add a 1977 Ranchero rear anti-sway bar. I'll have the brackets welded to the bottom of the car once I determine the correct pivot point locations for the end links. I'll have pictures of this sway bar set up when I'm futher along to clarify.

65 Mustang Poly bushing next to an original 71 Pinto rubber bushing.

Just starting to turn down the first set.

Down to the correct size allowing for pre-load of the bushings once they are pressed in.

The un-turned Mustang bushing, the original Pinto, and the turned-down replacement with the large flanges left on.

The restored springs ready for assembly.

Here are the Large Eye bushings pressed in.

These are the rear shackle bushings after assembly.

The completed springs ready to be bolted in.

With the leaf springs installed.

I machined the lowering blocks to fit the new stainless locating bolts, nuts, and washers.

71HANTO · « **Reply #35 on:** September 03, 2008, 10:02:11 PM »

Here are some Labor Day weekend work-in-progress pics of the Pinto/Lotus. I cleaned the engine with degreaser then sprayed the original color gray on the 1558cc L Block. I left the head bare aluminum because I like the looks. Once the engine was in the pinto, I repainted the valve cover the original color blue with an air brush.

I also put the new 8 inch rear on the reconfigured leaf springs with lowering blocks (no pics yet) but the lower U Bolt brackets need to be modified to take a longer rear Koni shock. I'm now waiting on a Type 9, 5 speed transmission that I'm getting in a parts trade. I will be putting only 133 ft lbs of torque through it but LOTS of sustained RPM.

lencost · « **Reply #36 on:** September 03, 2008, 10:11:09 PM »

Quote from: lencost on March 05, 2008, 10:49:33 PM

A twin cam Lotus in a green Pinto, sounds like a perfect match to me. How close is it to British racing green?

I would like to see some of the looks on peoples faces when you open the hood.

Leonard

Srt · « **Reply #37 on:** September 03, 2008, 10:26:35 PM »

Excellent-Excellent-Excellent

fastbak390 · « **Reply #38 on:** September 04, 2008, 05:57:59 PM »

Looks great Dad!

dholvrsn · « **Reply #39 on:** September 04, 2008, 06:05:50 PM »

How do you hook up a linkage to all those carburetors?

71HANTO · « **Reply #40 on:** September 05, 2008, 09:14:32 AM »

Quote from: dholvrsn on September 04, 2008, 06:05:50 PM

How do you hook up a linkage to all those carburetors?

The Weber Carbs have a single, adjustable, concentric, rail type linkage. It's hard to see on the Twin Cam Engine in an earlier post of this thread when it was still in the Cortina. The carbs are on the wrong side for the pinto original throttle cable. I will use the LONG one I pulled from the crunched Lotus Cortina (same issue because it was an imported left hand drive car).

71HANTO · « **Reply #41 on:** September 12, 2008, 12:58:39 AM »

Here is an old scan of the dyno test on the Lotus engine now sitting in the engine bay of the Pinto. It is a normally asparated 1600cc or 98 cubic inches bored out from the original 1558cc. It has about 3 1/2 road race hours on it since the dyno test. The chart is hard to read but it shows 181.36 HP @ 7500 RPM and 133 FT LBS @ 5500-6000 RPM

discolives78 · « **Reply #42 on:** October 08, 2008, 11:26:43 PM »

Wow, it took a little while to read this thread. Your Pinto looks super! Keep up the good work. The MkI Cortina is one of my dream cars, I didn't know there were any in the US, When I was growing up, the guy down the street from me had 2 mkII Cortinas, still neat cars, but a little tame compared to the earlier models. I lived in Germany when I was a little kid (Army brat), so my taste in cars reflects the first cars I saw. My very first car was a Renault 10 (engine in the back, water cooled). I bought it for $50 when I was 16 and it took all summer to get it running (it sat for 10 years). I drove it till I was 18, bought my first Pinto (a brown wagon) for $190, and passed the Renault down to my brother, he learned to drive on it, but it died and parts were near impossible to find for it. I admire you guys that do that much work to your cars. Mine's just a daily driver, and mostly stock, but I love it just the same.

71HANTO · « **Reply #43 on:** October 20, 2008, 02:06:35 AM »

I got lucky at Pick Your Part. Found some SUPER lite 15X7 4X4.25 Pinto Racing Wheels by Dyna Lite???. Anyone know the story on these? :hypno: I was able to test the offset on a 74 wagon that was at the yard also. Paid $94 for the set then paid Bolton's Wheel Repair another $20 a piece to have the road rash welded up and removed (Gardena, Ca.)and at the same time they checked them for trueness. The load capacity is 1580 lbs each

Scott Hamilton · « **Reply #44 on:** October 20, 2008, 02:22:40 AM »

:surprised:

You have a Serious Engine.. My Word...

I am green!

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #45 on:** October 20, 2008, 09:43:25 AM »

that is going to be one sweet pinto, cant wait to see that car complete!!
keep up the great work and show some more pics along the way!!

71HANTO · « **Reply #46 on:** October 20, 2008, 07:16:02 PM »

Thanks for all the great comments and stories. Now that I have the Type 9 transmission 2.3L(1987) to 2.0L Bell(1971) to 1.6L Engine(1966) adaption issues behind me, I theoretically could have the car running and on the road in about 4 hours of work. But then.... I REALLY wanted to BELIEVE Santa was able to get his rotund self AND my 10 speed down our chimney :hypno:

I still need to detail the trans. and get a 23 spline Tilton 7.25 clutch disc and the correct 2.3L Tapered Nose Throw-out Bearing to go with my existing Tilton setup.

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #47 on:** October 21, 2008, 05:40:59 PM »

hey charles i sent ya a messsge with the total and my shipping address just let me know if you got it thanks
eric

71HANTO · « **Reply #48 on:** October 21, 2008, 06:44:36 PM »

Quote from: bbobcat75 on October 21, 2008, 05:40:59 PM

hey charles i sent ya a messsge with the total and my shipping address just let me know if you got it thanks
eric

Thanks Eric, got it and will get a money order in the mail to you tomorrow (Weds)+PM sent, Charles

71HANTO · « **Reply #49 on:** October 26, 2008, 02:54:00 PM »

I was able to get the detailing done on the Type 9 yesterday while I'm waiting for the clutch disc and throw out bearing I ordered to get to me. You might ask why I would try to detail the underside to show quality if it is just going to be a a race car??? EASY...I have a history (very brief fortunately) of showing the underside of my race car at speed....it just has to look pretty just in case :hypno: :hypno: :hypno:

71HANTO · « **Reply #50 on:** October 30, 2008, 09:00:16 PM »

Here are some pictures of Datsun 240Z ALUMINUM rear brake drums I am adapting to the 71 for racing (actually the adapted 76, 8 inch rear). These save substantial weight over the original cast iron Pinto drums and put more power to the ground faster with less dead weight mass to overcome. Plus with less unsprung weight, the suspension can do it's job and react faster for better control. The holes in the Z drums were re-drilled and a collar was added to fill in the size difference. I still need to machine down the collar bevel a tiny amount to get the drum to seat properly. The Pinto drum can be taken out to 9.060 and the Z drums go to 9.055. For the later, larger 8 inch rear drum Pintos, it looks like a 1/4 inch spacer behind the backing plate may be nessesary to align/center the shoes correctly in the Z drum. The smaller 6.75 rear end drums look like the correct offset to start. Updates after I get the drums to seat and I can fully check the operation. the total cost so far: Pair 240Z drums-Pick Your Part $35, Profressional machining: $160, Cost of NEW 240Z drums-$270 pair. The fun of doing something a little different-PRICELESS

Original 1976 Pinto Drum and Two 240Z Drums

Original Pinto Max. Size 9.060

Original 240Z Max. Size 9.055

Re-Drilled Holes to 4.25 Ford Pattern

Mounted But Not Fully Seated

Testing the Offset of the Z Drum and my 15X7 Inch Junk Yard Wheels

Inside Clearance of Wheel to Fenderwell without Spacers.

Srt · « **Reply #51 on:** October 31, 2008, 03:45:59 AM »

I gotta hand it to you. You are one clever guy.

71HANTO · « **Reply #52 on:** October 31, 2008, 08:18:42 PM »

Quote from: srt on October 31, 2008, 03:45:59 AM

I gotta hand it to you. You are one clever guy.

Thanks SRT, as you may guess, I'm more into the go than the show when it comes to building a race car (but I do like to show how I make it go

). It's the little things that add up to make the difference between a front runner and a back marker. This Pinto will hopefully represent a little different image at the local So. Cal. road courses. Once sorted, I will be racing in B Sedan against early 912/911s, Alfas, BMW 1600/2002s, 510s, Lotus Cortinas, and 3.8L Jags, etc. These guys take no prisoners. They're in for a rude one

71HANTO · « **Reply #53 on:** November 09, 2008, 01:38:02 AM »

I weighed the aluminum 240Z drums and the 76 Pinto cast iron originals to get a real idea of the difference.... .4 LBS lighter EACH Drum

I talked with a racer buddy who is also an engineer. He is telling me that for each LB LESS of rotating weight (mass), I should realize 3 more FT LBS to the ground. If this is true, I get 24 (4lbs+4lbs=8X3=24ft lbs) more accelerating HP that would be wasted on the engine trying to over come the resistance of the heft :hypno: I have 133 ft lbs total to work with. If 24 of those are freed up, that's a PLUS 17%. My little 1600 chainsaw motor on steriods needs every tiny edge I can find. :fastcar:

71HANTO · « **Reply #54 on:** November 16, 2008, 04:35:18 PM »

Well I got a little done on the Pinto with mixed results. I tried to straighten the very bent shifter shaft on the Type 9 (T-9) but broke the little plastic retaining stubs. Now I need another one. I rationalized that it was too far gone anyway.....it was'nt... :lost:

The good news is that I went to Pick Your Part looking for a Type 9 Shifter (did not find it), I did found a nifty mini center console from a Capri II. I can fit two gauges where the clock delete plate is or maybe my shift light. This was the FIRST time I went to two junk yards in the same weekend and did'nt see one Pinto. I have be seeing at least ONE every time for the last 10 trips straight. Mustang II yes... Maverick yes... Merkur yes... but an auto trans...DANG!

I also made a little Resto progress on my Pick Your Part 15X7 Wheels I got a couple of months back.

Fresh from the junk yard ...

Road rash removed and Centers restored... I still need to put in HOURS of polishing....

71HANTO · « **Reply #55 on:** November 24, 2008, 12:22:52 AM »

I got some test fitting done on the Pinto with the 240Z Aluminum drums after the machinist did some touch-up fitting to seat them correctly on the axle flange. I may need to fab a 1/4 inch spacer behind the backing plate to dead center the shoes but may get away with not. You can see the small gap in the closeup picture. I also played with a 1 inch wheel spacer that I had and one of my race rims. I think I will need to go 1/2 to 3/4 inch instead of the 1 inch but I'll know better when I get tires. I planned for 205X50X15 @ 22.8 inches. :fastcar:

I was also able to re-thread (metric 10mmX1.5 Die-same as Pinto 4-speed) and mount a Lotus knob on the cut off Type 9 stick shift assembly Bill (Blink77) was kind enough to send to me after I nuked mine :hangover:.

With console and nicer Pick Your Part shift boot from a 5.0 Fox Mustang.

blink77 · « **Reply #56 on:** November 24, 2008, 03:43:21 PM »

CHARLES
Thanks for the ANDREW JACKSON.
BILL

71HANTO · « **Reply #57 on:** November 29, 2008, 09:42:09 PM »

Quote from: blink77 on November 24, 2008, 03:43:21 PM

CHARLES
Thanks for the ANDREW JACKSON.
BILL

Bill, thanks for taking the time to hunt it down, take pics, and send it on to me, it works perfectly and the height was just about where I would have cut mine anyway

. Another derelict part pressed into service.... :fastcar:

With the Capri Console I got on the previous junk yard trip with a nicer looking leatherette Shift Boot fresh from Pick Your Part $3

Before

After

blink77 · « **Reply #58 on:** November 30, 2008, 07:17:57 AM »

CHARLES
Just happy to see any of these parts get used. I know I
saved this stuff for a reason. Nice job on the tranny!!!!
BILL

71HANTO · « **Reply #59 on:** December 23, 2008, 10:49:42 PM »

It took me 5 tries to get the wrong throw out bearing so I gave in and had the yoke of the Type 9 bearing retainer turned down to the correct 2.0L/2.3L slip yoke size ($60). The problem is that there are two 2.3L sizes listed. The Type 9 matches the 2.3L and 3.8L, and 5.0L slip yoke size but it is no longer made for my Tilton 1 Disc race setup (too much torque for a one disc is my guess). The 2.0L/2.3L in the books is too small to fit on the Type 9 yoke. After turning down the yoke diameter to work with the smaller bearing diameter, I have an unlimited supply of bearings

Tall race bearing next to a Stock 2.3L, 3.8L. 5.0L one.

Turned down slide yoke to fit the bearing.

Another view.

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Author Topic: Hello fellow keepers of the flame-A long one from the new guy-71HANTO (Read 59439 times)