Author Topic: Hello fellow keepers of the flame-A long one from the new guy-71HANTO (Read 59479 times)

71HANTO · « **Reply #60 on:** December 23, 2008, 10:57:46 PM »

I had my brakes drilled for racing today at C H Topping Brakes in Long Beach. Ca. They did them for $50 each and checked the used 240Z Aluminum drums for warpage (none). The 71 Pinto Discs have flash rust but they are near new. This trick makes these ALL SEASON for the street. They will brake better in wet or dry as the gases and water are re-routed. Cheap insurance at $50 each. IMHO
:accident:

lencost · « **Reply #61 on:** December 24, 2008, 02:30:03 AM »

71HANTO thank you thank you thank you for posting your progress.

Leonard

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #62 on:** December 24, 2008, 07:34:38 AM »

charles the car is looking good, cant wait to see the spolier on the car now!!
keep up the great work
eric

71HANTO · « **Reply #63 on:** January 17, 2009, 11:42:32 PM »

I had a chance to clean up the original 24K mile 2.0L alternator and add an underdrive aluminum pulley to save it's life in SUSTAINED high RPM race conditions. The added benefit is less drag on the engine giving me a little more acceleration. The 71 pulley is in front for size comparison. The only downside is I probably won't be rolling with my 1000 watt stereo cranked while charging my cel phone during a race

I had a lite weight Mitsubishi alternator I used in the Lotus Cortina but to keep it I would need to do wiring mods to the untouched 71 Pinto wiring harness. By staying 71 Pinto, I'm taking maybe a pound and a half weight penalty for the compromise but it looks period correct unlike the mobern Mitsubishi unit anyway. What looks like rust in the back of the Pinto unit is actually factory paint

The numbers on the 1971 Pinto Autolite alternator are: 15V 42A D0AF 10300 G NEG :fastcar:

71HANTO · « **Reply #64 on:** January 17, 2009, 11:57:36 PM »

I also had a chance to clean up the 1971 vintage 240Z aluminum brake drums, hand chamfer the venting holes C H Topping drilled in them, and test fit the 1976 Pinto 8 inch rear spec brake pads. The width of the pad in the drum looks perfect

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #65 on:** January 18, 2009, 09:42:09 AM »

it looks like its coming together nicely!!! keep up the great work charles!! and post some more pics!!!
eric

71HANTO · « **Reply #66 on:** January 19, 2009, 09:40:09 PM »

Thanks Eric, you asked for 'em....the first picture is of the Mitsubishi Alternator with a Cortina Generator front pulley installed to help hide the modernness but I decided not to leave it and have to butcher the original wiring harness just to make it work. The next picture the original Pinto Alternator that my car was born with waiting for a larger diameter drive belt. The third picture is an original 2 ton Lucas Generator that the Cortinas came with (6 Volt!)

.

I had to adapt the Pinto Alternator to the Cortina generator bracket using a sleeve, enlarging holes, and repositioning the bracket with new mounting holes to get perfect alignment with the other pulleys. I used another extra part from my 69 Mustang. The upper bracket has a Ford C9 # stamped in it. I like the fact that the Pinto unit sits low but I weighed it and its exactly 2 LBS heavier than the Mitsubishi unit

Oh well, It means I have to get more aggressive somewhere else. :fastcar:

Mitsubishi Alternator with Cortina Generator Pulley:

Pinto Alternator with underdrive aluminum Pulley and a little shined up:

Cortina heavy weight Generator fit for a WWII tank:

Size Difference Pinto/Mitsubishi:

A better view showing adapted Cortina and Mustang brackets:

71HANTO · « **Reply #67 on:** January 19, 2009, 11:56:06 PM »

This side view shows what I'm using for exhaust instead of full tube headers

:lost:. This cast iron header is from a 1971 Lotus Twin Cam Elan ($25 E-bay six miles from my house

). I am planning on 7500 RPM MAX (limited with a 6AL chip). This engine pulls easily through 8500 RPM.... if I let it....after it passes 9000 RPM, it becomes a potential "Bouncing Betty" :hypno:

This cast iron header will be extrude-honed to flow as well as a tube header up to 7500 RPM. This exhaust tuning increases the useable torque throughout the low and mid RPM ranges by moving the peak torque level lower on the RPM curve. The higher end is completely sacrificed but is no longer needed because of the 5 speed. I get less under-hood heat and the cast iron header should weigh about the same as a nest full of tube headers once it's been extrude-honed and I smooth and remove some of the extra outside material also.

For the tight twisties torque rules. However, I could have spun to 8500 RPM with a four speed to get the same race times with a shorter engine life. No thanks $$$

The Type 9, 5 speed allows me to use the mechanical leverage advantage of semi-radical 4.62 rear gears that multiply my electronically limited RPM and turn it into usable torque on the track and the street. I get a top speed of 137 MPH with 22.8 inch tires. The 1974 Hanto Lotus/Pinto 5 speed Prototype allows me to race with 5 gears against the others limited by the vintage racing rules to only 4 :2fast4u: I could still race at the events with a renegade 5 speed without the borrowed Hanto pedigree but I would be limited to racing in the "exhibition class". This class is where all the cars that don't fit the vintage requirements get lumped together on one grid. The speed differential of the oddball cars racing together means I'm racing in my rearview mirror watching for some nut case with a twin turbo'ed Viper working the course mixed in with 30, 40 year old cars :accident: Thanks Mr. Hansen, for helping me stay out of the junk yard wars wherever you are..... :drunk:

http://blog.themustangguys.com/Hantopinto.jpg

http://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2006/09/17/the-hanto-pinto/

71HANTO · « **Reply #68 on:** January 24, 2009, 09:56:06 PM »

Here's a short cut to faster track times....losin g weight :lol: The first picture shows an original Pinto sized battery next to the 12V motorcycle battery that I will be using. Most racers (those who use on-board batteries) go with the gel cell pictured but they're still heavy. :hangover: The motorcycle battery weighs 17LBS and the Pinto battery weighs in at a hefty 41LBS. :hangover: I save a net 24LBS

I will put it in the rear passanger side foot-well to counter some of my heft :amazed: and keep the center of gravity low and away from the fuel cell in the trunk :fastcar:

stevewl1164 · « **Reply #69 on:** January 24, 2009, 10:22:11 PM »

Hello, my first visit to the forum...do not know how it works! Fordfestiva forum is easier! Anyway, I had a 73 Pinto..in 1982 it was the frist car I bought. It was a medium blue runabout with the deluxe trim package in and out...window and drip moldings chrome, thin vinyl insert bodyside moldings, deluxe wheel covers, no rub strips on the bumpers though. Two tone blue interior...dar k blue and light blue in the middle. Cargo carpet. It was a 2.0 automatic with no air. It did have disc brakes...not power though. I LOVED that car. It was a lot of fun to drive.

71HANTO · « **Reply #70 on:** January 25, 2009, 12:36:22 AM »

Quote from: stevewl1164 on January 24, 2009, 10:22:11 PM

Hello, my first visit to the forum...do not know how it works! Fordfestiva forum is easier! Anyway, I had a 73 Pinto..in 1982 it was the frist car I bought. It was a medium blue runabout with the deluxe trim package in and out...window and drip moldings chrome, thin vinyl insert bodyside moldings, deluxe wheel covers, no rub strips on the bumpers though. Two tone blue interior...dar k blue and light blue in the middle. Cargo carpet. It was a 2.0 automatic with no air. It did have disc brakes...not power though. I LOVED that car. It was a lot of fun to drive.

:welcome: A lot of great information on this site but you do have to dig a little if you find the Pinto bug bites you!!!

dga57 · « **Reply #71 on:** January 25, 2009, 12:54:15 AM »

:welcome: stevewl1164!
This site's not hard to navigate at all, once you get used to it. I've never been on the Ford Festiva forum but I can tell you that, in my opinion, this is one of the best run sites anywhere - our administrators really care about what's happening and do whatever it takes to make it work.
Dwayne :smile:

71HANTO · « **Reply #72 on:** January 31, 2009, 10:06:04 PM »

Here is a cheap, easy, repair and prevention of the easily broken early door pulls. They are weak and the collar that holds the mounting screw pulls through. I repaired 3 broken out collars and one cracked one that was still connected. I added a bunch of JB Weld to the back of the mounting area to spread the forces of the pull to a larger surface area. The door pulls can stand up to much more force now

It needs straightening a little but here is the finished product-no more worries

dave1987 · « **Reply #73 on:** January 31, 2009, 10:41:00 PM »

Awesome fix! Thanks for posting it, I feel it will come in handy for many many pre 74' owners!

71HANTO · « **Reply #74 on:** February 15, 2009, 10:06:50 PM »

Here's a little tip to make your own gaskets or duplicate a mass of flat parts without having to do a bunch of tracing. This works really well with even very complex gaskets if you have the old one to use as a pattern. Critical if the gaskets are obsolete. The picture below is of the outline of the aluminum spacers I will be stacking behind the Pinto brake backing plate to exactly center the 240Z drums to the Pinto shoes. You can see I took the 8 inch rear metal bearing retainer gasket and over sprayed it with black rattle can paint on the aluminum 1/8 inch stock for contrast. When I make a gasket using black/dark gray gasket material, I spray it using a white paint for contrast then trim it with scissors, utility knife, or for really fine work, an Exacto hobby knife. I made two 8 inch rear center section gaskets this way when I had trouble finding one for me and one for Fastbak390.

1/8 Spacer plates stacked (2 per side) ready for the Pinto backing plate and shoes, now correctly centered with 240Z Aluminum Drums.

71HANTO · « **Reply #75 on:** February 22, 2009, 08:24:11 PM »

I finally had a little time and brief weakness in my procrastinatio n today to finish taking care of the 240Z drum to Pinto brake backing plate offset difference. Now they're dead on :fastcar:

Before the fab'ed spacers/shims... a 1/4 inch offset gap I needed to fill....

With the aluminum spacers in place.....No more gap

Final test fit with the 240Z Drum

71HANTO · « **Reply #76 on:** March 01, 2009, 08:17:30 PM »

I sold my Lotus Cortina project yesterday

and going FULL BORE PINTO

Here's a Pinto option you don't see too often :look: A Pinto 1500!!!??? I removed the Lotus Twin Cam to do the final fitting and detailing of the drive-train. In it's place is a low mile 1965 1500 Deluxe Cortina engine. It's a direct bolt-in for the 1600 and 2000 Pinto and is THE Daddy of the Pinto 1600. I will use this engine to do things like drive and leave the Pinto at the paint shop, the welding shop that will be putting in my roll cage, etc, without having to worrying about high dollar parts disappearing in someone else's care :evil: I'll also get a chance to test and tune the suspension without putting unnecessary miles on the Lotus Twin Cam. I had promised Fastbak390 that I would get it running a couple of years ago. I just didn't know it was going to be a test mule engine for a Pinto race car :fastcar:

dave1987 · « **Reply #77 on:** March 02, 2009, 09:19:58 AM »

I admire your dedication to the Pinto by selling one of your other projects. I do feel for you, for having to let go of it though. Perhaps later in the future you might get the chance to pursue it again?

I love your idea for making obsolete gaskets, it really makes things easier, and I will be doing this when I rebuild my 4spd tranny which no parts are available for!

Keep up the good work, and here's to hoping you get every bit of enjoyment AND MORE from this little racer of yours! :drunk:

71HANTO · « **Reply #78 on:** March 08, 2009, 09:42:20 AM »

Thanks Dave, I felt a little tweaked seeing it being loaded up into the truck but I kept the main heart of the car (the fun part). The full boogie race engine. I sent my spare backup engine with the deal. He still got a killer deal (the economy). I know it went to the right guy (an active vintage Lotus racer) :fastcar: I stayed with the Lotus/Pinto because I felt it had better technical and engineering potential than the Mark 1 Cortina (for CHEAP

). I'm building this car to be safe and stable at 130+ MPH on the super speedways once or twice a year (road race the rest of the time). The 71 Pinto has about a 5 inch wider track and a much lower center of gravity than the Cortina. Plus, you can get much more tire under the Pinto and they're roughly the same weight cars to start with. I know which car I want to be in on the starting race grid

:2fast4u:

71HANTO · « **Reply #79 on:** March 08, 2009, 09:56:28 AM »

Here was a confidence builder for me (laziness can be the mother of invention). I did'nt want the go through the hassle of trying to track down this 1976 8 inch rear brake shoe cable that was holding up my project or humbly beg for one on this site, so I decided hay... what the hay...try to repair it. It took some finesse, patience, a cold chisel, hammer, and needle nose pliers but it turned out almost factory for all of 11 cents of cable from the hardware store

Parts to start the project with and the original frayed cable that caused me the headache :mad:

Opened up with the new cable laying in it... just needing to be crimped

The finished part....and with a little clean up....ready to go on

Srt · « **Reply #80 on:** March 09, 2009, 03:26:43 AM »

Ah yes...Necessit y, the mother of invention

71HANTO · « **Reply #81 on:** March 12, 2009, 12:04:38 AM »

The delivery man brought Pinto CANDY to my door today and it won't rot my teeth!

8 gal. Fuel Cell fits in the spare wheel well...no cutting :amazed:

All the bells and whistles

..... Less chance of me becoming the main course at a Car-B-Que

dga57 · « **Reply #82 on:** March 12, 2009, 12:10:12 AM »

VERY COOL!
Dwayne :smile:

71HANTO · « **Reply #83 on:** March 13, 2009, 10:30:16 PM »

I was able to remove enough stuff out of the trunk to test fit the fuel cell today after work. I need to remove the spare tire hold down loop so the cell with fit down in flat and flush. It looks like I will still have room to carry suitcases during a race if I want to :surprised:

The raw trunk well with the original build sheet stuck to it.

Plenty of room in the tire well AND it's on the counter weight side of me

:fastcar:

beegle55 · « **Reply #84 on:** March 14, 2009, 05:23:59 PM »

That is a neat fuel cell and I give you a hats off for being very creative in the ways to even out the weight ratio and the weight itself to favor the car's performance. Awesome work!

-beegle55

75bobcatv6 · « **Reply #85 on:** March 15, 2009, 12:13:44 PM »

Where and how much did you get that Fuel cell for? Id like one that was in the Spare tire well. =)

71HANTO · « **Reply #86 on:** March 15, 2009, 10:13:09 PM »

Thanks Guys, This is a fairly new product from ATL (WWW.ATLINC.COM). I promised the Misses I would fund the Cell from the sale of my Cortina. These Start at about $470. HOWEVER, I added ALL of the available options to pump the price up a bit. The extras included: Fuel Sender with Cockpit Gauge,Trunk Dip Stick (so it can be read while filling or in case of gauge failure), Surge Tank for road racing, Aluminum Top, and Short Fill Neck(to save weight). The final bill: $1015. :hypno: This is an all out race car so what price do I put on my life? I guess I should have written a memo to my self like ford did to see if I was worth it....I did it anyway

Beegle55, You have a Primo drag car there. I'm jealous it's done and running (their never REALLY ever done). I had my drag racing days back in the 80's with a SLEEPER. I know that is WAY over used but you be the judge. I took a 1979 Oldsmobile Cutless Supreme DIESEL and dropped in a built 350 Chevy and added 150HP shot of NITRUS just to liven things up a little more. This was during a time when the HOT Mustang coming out of Detroit had 195HP. The Corvette had about 265. I was putting close to 400HP at the rear wheels. I raced on the street (you didn't read that Fastbak390) and at the Los Angeles County Raceway, (was in Palmdale), Drag Strip. The car was undefeated on the bottle for three years til I blew the rings. Nothing humiliates them more than blowing their doors off with an empty kiddie seat visible in the back seat. The only clue that they were about to be had was the XDIESEL license plate. SMOG EXEMPT IN CALIFORNIA. I could (and did) build ANYTHING I wanted with a registered diesel. I think a few folks sold their Corvettes and Firebirds after feeling a little too confident against a car with a kiddie seat and a bug deflector shield on the front (it threw the air over the windshield for much better aerodynamics with this brick, believe it or not-think of an upside down air dam). I really loved the ones with their girlfriends... . :devil:

Pintosopher · « **Reply #87 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:24:07 AM »

71Hanto,
You are on my wavelength with the fuel cell

My 72 Runabout (hatch)needs a cell for my hillclimb racing anyway, But I have to go into major bulkhead design to separate the drivers compartment. The only question I have is: Does the "well cell sit deeply enough into the pocket to allow for a sloping remote fill tube using the original opening in the fender? I want a 10 gallon capacity or more. but the Depth issue might interfere. I don't want to cut up the floor to install a standard cell, as I need the strength

of the floor and don't want to go all the way with a subframe (Yet!)

My car is always a work in progress, ideas abound.

Pintosopher

beegle55 · « **Reply #88 on:** March 16, 2009, 11:09:22 AM »

Quote from: 71HANTO on March 15, 2009, 10:13:09 PM

Beegle55, You have a Primo drag car there. I'm jealous it's done and running (their never REALLY ever done). I had my drag racing days back in the 80's with a SLEEPER. I know that is WAY over used but you be the judge. I took a 1979 Oldsmobile Cutless Supreme DIESEL and dropped in a built 350 Chevy and added 150HP shot of NITRIUS just to liven things up a little more. This was during a time when the HOT Mustang coming out of Detroit had 195HP. The Corvette had about 265. I was putting close to 400HP at the rear wheels. I raced on the street (you didn't read that Fastbak390) and at Los Angeles County Raceway in Palmdale, CA. Drag Strip. The car was undefeated on the bottle for three years til I blew the rings. Nothing humiliates them more than blowing their doors off with an empty kiddie seat visible in the back seat. The only clue that they were about to be had was the XDIESEL licience plate. SMOG EXEMPT IN CALIFORNIA. I could (and did) build ANYTHING I wanted with a registered diesel. I think a few folks sold their Corvettes and Firebirds after feeling a little too confident against a car with a kiddie seat and a bug deflector shield on the front (it threw the air over the windshield for much better aerodynamics with this brick believe it or not). I loved the ones with their girlfriends... . :devil:

You've got to appreciate a good sleeper story! I need to replace the carpet and do a little work to the interior of my Pinto and after being ran almost every weekend from 1996 to 2002 it could use to be rebuild and freshened up a bit to run in the prime. It was putting down 500 HP, about the max you can go in the 302 block we are using.

-beegle55

71HANTO · « **Reply #89 on:** March 16, 2009, 07:12:59 PM »

Quote from: pintosopher on March 16, 2009, 09:24:07 AM

71Hanto,
You are on my wavelength with the fuel cell My 72 Runabout (hatch)needs a cell for my hillclimb racing anyway, But I have to go into major bulkhead design to separate the drivers compartment. The only question I have is: Does the "well cell sit deeply enough into the pocket to allow for a sloping remote fill tube using the original opening in the fender? I want a 10 gallon capacity or more. but the Depth issue might interfere. I don't want to cut up the floor to install a standard cell, as I need the strength of the floor and don't want to go all the way with a subframe (Yet!)

My car is always a work in progress, ideas abound.

Pintosopher

Pintosopher,
This is the information from page 15 of their catalog (http://www.atlinc.com/catalogs.html) 12gal 45Ltr Part# 171110 17lbs. WellCell 22” Dia. 8.00" high #6 size filler neck

The cell fits flush on the bottom with the spare tire loop removed so you can measure up from there. I hope it works for you. You're going to have a pretty long run from the filler on the opposite side... :drunk:
71HANTO

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Author Topic: Hello fellow keepers of the flame-A long one from the new guy-71HANTO (Read 59479 times)

75bobcatv6