PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => General Pinto Talk => Topic started by: Reeves1 on April 23, 2014, 07:59:27 AM
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or whatever they right name is ?
I've seldom seen one intact.
Have yet to find a NOS one.
Had a thought.....go ing to the JD dealer to see if I can find one there.
Many cable controls on heavy farm equipment.
If I find one that will work, I post info/pics/part numbers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_0403_zps7e65ac0c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_0403_zps7e65ac0c.jpg.html)
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/61-71-FORD-MUSTANG-COMET-FAIRLANE-TORINO-POWER-STEERING-RAM-BOOT-/231207532915?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d50af973&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/61-71-FORD-MUSTANG-COMET-FAIRLANE-TORINO-POWER-STEERING-RAM-BOOT-/231207532915?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d50af973&vxp=mtr)
I asked for some measurements extended & width & hole sizes
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Look at like motorcycle shock or fork gaiters, or some rack end boots are small enough to use.
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Shock/rack boots are too big.
Shaft is only 1" at the points where it is attached.
Going to town today.....
Plus, I was looking at the one out of the yellow car. Think I may have it figured how to make solid with two u-joints.
Just need a junk one to cut apart for a look see.
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Some rack boots are two step size instead of gradually necking down, outer end quite a bit smaller. I know Tempo was but do not know if the small end long enough.
Or boot for steering damper like 4WD uses.
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I have a steering dampener boot : way too big.
Problem is with V8s. Needs to be small like OEM or it's too close to heat sources.
I have parts on the way to try & make a solid steering shaft.
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I have a steering dampener boot : way too big.
Problem is with V8s. Needs to be small like OEM or it's too close to heat sources.
I have parts on the way to try & make a solid steering shaft.
I'll be watching this thread to see how your attempt to go with a solid shaft and u-joints works out.
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Shouldn't be too bad a deal to sort out ?
Using a scrap steering rod, cut off at the screw driver point. Above the two crimps.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0410_zps0dfc1ba4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0410_zps0dfc1ba4.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0411_zps076c9c27.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0411_zps076c9c27.jpg.html)
The flex part "should" pull out then. Flex part is 3/4".
I can then insert & weld in a section of 3/4" hardened steel rod.
For the u-joint at the rack, the part number from Flaming River is: FR 2631
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0005/s0003/FR2631
The u-joint for the top is : FR 1916
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0005/s0008/FR1916
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Plan is to insert the 3/4" steel rod into the top cut off section & tack weld. Longer than needed.
Install the steering assembly back into the car.
Install the rack u-joint.
Head scratch the angles.
Cut the 3/4" shaft off where it looks right.
Tack the top u-joint on.
Measure & cut another 3/4" rod , that will go between the two u-joint.
Tack in place & test with front end off the ground.
If you say it real fast , it's easy ! ;D
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I would think it would work fine.
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I haven't looked in awhile but I'm pretty sure my 73 has a solid shaft & rag joint instead of the cable.
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Shouldn't be too bad a deal to sort out ?
Using a scrap steering rod, cut off at the screw driver point. Above the two crimps.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0410_zps0dfc1ba4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0410_zps0dfc1ba4.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0411_zps076c9c27.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0411_zps076c9c27.jpg.html)
The flex part "should" pull out then. Flex part is 3/4".
I can then insert & weld in a section of 3/4" hardened steel rod.
For the u-joint at the rack, the part number from Flaming River is: FR 2631
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0005/s0003/FR2631
The u-joint for the top is : FR 1916
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0005/s0008/FR1916
Are you going to use that steering wheel? :)
'Head scratch the angles...' made me laugh. A lot.
:)
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Are you going to use that steering wheel?
Yes. I think. Maybe ? Not fussy on the double steel bars.
I'll decide when the time comes.
I haven't looked in awhile but I'm pretty sure my 73 has a solid shaft & rag joint instead of the cable.
Interesting... .
Sometimes I wish there were various Pintos/years closer, when I'm making changes.
Wonder if they fit the older cars properly ?
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The only question about the 73 shaft would be the steering box connector since the 73 rack is a 1 year only part.
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It's bluddy well snowing again today......mor e shop time.
I cut a spare steering shaft at the place the screw driver is pointed at.
For whatever reason, I thought there would be rubber inside it.
I had asked others what was inside & at that time no one knew.
No rubber inside it. Shaft above is hollow & measures inside the shaft .773
All metal - made much the same as cable.
I put wrenches on the cut off section on the crimps. Yes, you can easily twist it.
Would it flex under driving conditions ?
Maybe.
Would it fail over time ?
Very much doubt it. It would have to be seriously rusty to do so.
Would u-joints be better ?
Not sure on that one.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0421_zpsd3b20e14.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0421_zpsd3b20e14.jpg.html)
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It's bluddy well snowing again today......mor e shop time.
I cut a spare steering shaft at the place the screw driver is pointed at.
For whatever reason, I thought there would be rubber inside it.
I had asked others what was inside & at that time no one knew.
No rubber inside it. Shaft above is hollow & measures inside the shaft .773
All metal - made much the same as cable.
I put wrenches on the cut off section on the crimps. Yes, you can easily twist it.
Would it flex under driving conditions ?
Maybe.
Would it fail over time ?
Very much doubt it. It would have to be seriously rusty to do so.
Would u-joints be better ?
Not sure on that one.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0421_zpsd3b20e14.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0421_zpsd3b20e14.jpg.html)
This is good to know. My 'flex boot' that covered the flexible part is missing, and the flex part is rusty, and I was concerned about the rust. Should probably soak it with oil, since friction is what makes cables fail once they start rusting. Thanks for this post. :)
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It's bluddy well snowing again today......mor e shop time.
I cut a spare steering shaft at the place the screw driver is pointed at.
For whatever reason, I thought there would be rubber inside it.
I had asked others what was inside & at that time no one knew.
No rubber inside it. Shaft above is hollow & measures inside the shaft .773
All metal - made much the same as cable.
I put wrenches on the cut off section on the crimps. Yes, you can easily twist it.
Would it flex under driving conditions ?
Maybe.
Would it fail over time ?
Very much doubt it. It would have to be seriously rusty to do so.
Would u-joints be better ?
Not sure on that one.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0421_zpsd3b20e14.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0421_zpsd3b20e14.jpg.html)
Did you end up replacing the cable on your cars with U joints then? I wonder how far into the shaft the cable goes past where you cut it off?
I've got my engine out for a refresh/ cam and intake swap (ready to go back in now) so now would be the perfect time to change the column to U joints and a solid shaft. I don't recall the article # but I have read in the NHRA rule book "no cable steering", have to look that up this afternoon again.
My NHRA rule book is old (2008) but I'm sure the same rule applies, section 4, general rules, 3:3 Steering "Only conventional automotive steering systems are permitted; flexible steering shafts prohibited."
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Left the white car stock.
One day will work on the Ugly Yellow one to see what I can fab.
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Left the white car stock.
One day will work on the Ugly Yellow one to see what I can fab.
Thanks for the reply. If I get mine sorted out with U joints I'll post up pictures..
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I have two sets of U-Joints.
Just not working on the other cars.
Yet.
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So I pulled the column out of my other '71 this afternoon and had a look at it. The lower section of the column just pulls out exposing a DD shaft. The shaft is hollow as you figured Reeves, you just didn't cut it up high enough to get past the end of the cable. Converting this to U joints should be pretty straight forward.
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u264/fozzy_M40A1/P1050297_zpsqxjghmeq.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u264/fozzy_M40A1/P1050295_zps9mgwf7kd.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u264/fozzy_M40A1/P1050298_zpskzi2cutx.jpg)
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I see you work on cars like I do...... drop of blood on the floor in the second picture ? LOL !
Look at the close up picture I posted, with the tip of a screw driver pointing at the area above the second crimp.
My plan is to cut it there. If any cable is still in the shaft, it will be easy to remove.
Plan then was to pick up some solid rod & insert into the shaft. Weld there. Plus drill a couple holes farther up & weld to the bar.
Length of bar sticking out depends on angles to match up to the rack / U-joints after that.
Looks easy in my head ;D
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Good eye! I've lost so much blood over the years wrenching that I often don't even notice, lots of scars on these hands. Coming up to 30 years in mechanical trades, first 15 years mostly doing transmission work and now fix submarines for a living.
The way you describe would work for sure. I'm trying to avoid any welded parts, not that I doubt my welding at all.
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I may have missed this, but why not a 74/80 steering column?
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I may have missed this, but why not a 74/80 steering column?
That may be an option, I was just working with what I had and what I know rather than the unknown.
A couple questions:
What spline size is the 74-80 steering rack? Does anyone have pics of the later steering column as installed?
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9/16" X 26 and 3/4 Double D