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Offline ponyboy

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Electronic ignition conversion
« on: April 11, 2019, 10:09:22 PM »
Will this fit a 1973 Pinto 2.0L OHC? Or is there something better? For some reason I am having to regap my points every couple of weeks. I've been just driving down the road when it starts misfiring, and I have to pull over and regap the points. The gap always widens. The retainer screw seems tight enough and the points are new. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-91847v/applications/make/ford

Offline JoeBob

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2019, 01:59:39 AM »
Back in 72 my new pinto burnt points. Ford could not fix it. I kept half a dozen in the glove box and changed them out often on the side of the road.
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Offline Wittsend

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2019, 11:02:25 AM »
I could be wrong but I'm guessing when they state, 2.0L/122 they are referring to the 2.0 version of the Lima engine which is more commonly knows as the (1974 and up) 2.3. So, my guess would be "No."

In these older cars there are only a few aspects to the ignition. The points, condenser, coil and its resistor. Unless there is something odd about the 2.0 points lobes (that might cause more sparking) then it comes down to material of the points and/or the coil and its resistor.  You say the gap widens so it is likely the point burning way. If it was the rubbing block that was wearing, the gap would tighten.  I'd assume the issues is either poor contact material, a contact area too small to handle the load or the resistor/coil combination is too high of a load.

Make sure you distributor has no wobble otherwise your gap can be all over the place.  I'd think if the coil/resistor are the problem that anything aftermarket can replace them. Just remember the resistor has to match the ohms rating the coil calls for.  You might want to look at Burton or any other performance aftermarket company to see what they offer.   Electronic ignitions can be pretty simple using items like the old Chrysler ignition box and magnetic sensor. But it would require tools like a lathe to convert the reluctor to fit where the lobes are now. And, the 2.0 distributor case is pretty small..., so it might not fit at all.

You might contact Pertronix and see if they make a kit for the early Pinto 2.0. Just don't get the Ignitor I as there is an issue where it burns up if the ignition is left on but the motor isn't running. Hopefully those who have a 2.0 can give more information.

Offline one2.34me

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2019, 11:38:05 AM »

ponyboy, I'm not very knowledgeable on ignition stuff. I use rockauto a lot and I've never had a problem with the parts they sell. They offer the two electronic ignitions below for a 1973 Pinto 2.0 OHC.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1973,pinto,2.0l+122cid+l4,1135134,ignition,ignition+conversion+kit,11340
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Offline The Whistler

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2019, 05:39:24 PM »
Either the one  from Summit or Rock Auto will work. I have installed those in the past when they were less reliable but  was lucky! We had good results.
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Offline ponyboy

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2019, 02:32:54 AM »
Thanks, I'll get one from Rockauto. I'm getting tired of having ignition problems with this car. It runs great otherwise. First I had a problem where it would start right up, then start misfiring after a couple of miles. I traced that to the condenser. So I replaced the condenser, points, rotor, and cap. The book says to set the points to .025. But it didn't run so good that way, so I set them at .022. It ran perfect. For a couple of weeks. Then this problem started. I like points, because I don't like electronics. But I also want a car that will run reliably. I mostly drive old cars because they don't have electronics and emissions crap on them.

Offline LongTimeFordMan

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2019, 04:45:07 PM »
Hi..

I had a new 72 pinto in 72 when they were new.. had same probl3m with pinits.. the problem is that the condenser fails. I resorted to using aftermarket .22 mf capatrs and carried several.

I now have a 72 that Ive had 4 years and the first thing i did when i gotitwas to insrall a.pertronix series 1. 

It ran reliably for 2 years until i arbitarily d4ecided to upgrade to the series 2.

No problems with series1 but just decded to upgrade.

Runs flawlessly and would recommend the conversion.

In addition to reliability the pertronix also provides more precse timing.

I also modded the factory distributor to limit the total centrifugal advance to about 14 degrees by replacing the high speed spring with a wire loop, locked down the rotating plate that holds the points and provides the ground and removed the vacuum advance.

Setinitial timing to about 14 degrees at 1000 rpm so total advance is 28.

Ign plus distributor mods added a lot to performanc.

Also consider installing an adjustable STEEL not aluminum cam pulley from Racer Walsh and advancing cam timing about 4-6 degrees

I postd pix of the distributor mods in a thread about 5 speed transmissions here..
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Offline TIGGER

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2019, 05:48:42 PM »
My buddy put a pertronix unit in his 2.0 Pinto back in like 1993.  The same time I put one in my 67 coupe.  We bought them at the same time using our bonus LOL.  He never had an issue with it for the rest of the time he owned it and till this day I have never had an issue with mine.
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Offline LongTimeFordMan

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Re: Electronic ignition conversion
« Reply #8 on: April 15, 2019, 07:14:19 PM »
Well i think they have changed a lot since 1995.  There is now a series 1 and a series 2.

I started with a series 1 in 2014 and updated in 2017 have had no problems..

The distributors in early 71-73 cars were bosch , same as volkswagons with d8fferent drives.

But its important to rework the advance curve. The factory distributors had major tech for emission control and it is impossible to use enough i itial timing for low.end torque without having the total.go to 38 degrees which id way too much. 2.0 likes 28-30 total.and 14 at 1000 rpm.

I experimented about a year to find the optimum curve.. check my posts on how to mod.

My first experience with electronic conversions was with a 68 mgb and i used an early allison optical trigger one. 

Ran it for 10 years with no problems.

I.keep a set of points and condenser for emergencies. And also.set up a spare distributor with my first series 1 pertronics when i do the stampedes usually 3000 miles or more but havent had any problems.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles