PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => General Pinto Talk => Topic started by: flash041 on August 06, 2012, 09:22:03 PM
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After this HOT summer I am starting my search for a/c for my V6 cruising wagon.If anyone has one let me know.
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im stripping every thing from the 2.8 v6 bobcat (76) i have.. not sure if the stuff is any good, but it is all intact..
lmk if your interested
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Got my a/c unit from ilvmy76, THANK YOU!! I will be checking it out closely to make sure there are no leaks before installing it.Only think I will have to fab some duct work for the center ducts.I have the gauge package and will have to shift the center duct to the right of them.Not sure at this point if I will use R12 or R134A in it yet, Any one have experince with with using R134a in a Pinto?
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Having torn down and rebuilt Louises 1976 2.8 AC system, duct, dash heater core. Evaporator coil, etc, etc, etc. I will pretty much help as much as I can. First off the mid year pintos and mustang II's have a flange gasket system connect to a metering valve device (forgive me I forget the exact name of it at this time) this is regulated to use R12 only. If you want to convert to 134a then you will need to install a whole new system from vintage auto air or a similar company. They cannot rebuild or adjust te metering valve and the replacement refrigerants do not work well. Freeze 12 being the better of the replacement refrigerants. It is almost as much as R12 these days, so don't bother with it. As for reassembly, the flamnge block has gaskets ( they resemble o rings ) that are not available and I have had more than enough trouble trying to seal this area. I thought I had it andthe gasket blew out after a month. I think I finally figured out the problem. It has held for two weeks, if you havethis set up, email me and I will fill you in on how to fix this. I also have some of the gasket materials I used.
Next if you have the same set up we have it is a very complex and tight fitting duct system and going around the gauges is going to be a frustrating endeavor. There are dampers and flow directing lives that go right up to the vent openings on the center area, so redirecting this set up may nit be easily done without redoing everything. If I started over, I probably would go with a new system from vintage Auto air, one that will work with the cheap r134a. Converting the system to r134a with the existing equipment looses 20% cooling and doesn't work when you need it. So stay with r12 or do a complete tear out and change everything. Dave, send me some pics of what you have and I may be able to help.
Bosspinto@pintostampede.com
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Thanks Norm.I feel this may be a winter project.I will see how much time I have this fall to mess with it.At this time I still plan to use the original R12 system.I have several clients that have R12 and Freeze12, so I may be able to get a deal on it.First off I will put the system together off the car and have it pressure tested for leaks.As far as the center vents go right now they will come out where the gauge package is. It may just be easier to move the gauges to the right of the vents.Does any one know which way they came from the factory with the Sports rally Package with a/c? I have seen photos with non a/c, but not with factory a/c. If the vents go to the right there must be a different duct piece.In the mean time I will check with vintage auto to see what they have to offer.At least I have the heater a/c box for the inside of the car.
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Dave, the valve I was referring to is a POA valve. http://www.classicautoair.com/POA-Ford-Valves-Home.html not to be confused with the TEV valve the connects to this useless device. The POA valve us the one that cannot be rebuilt and is not offered for the Pinto. So 134a is a dream unless you do a complete rebuild. In other words you will not be able to use the AC/heater box. The company I was talking about was Classic auto air. Now maybe they make an evaporator of equal size to fit the box and then go from there.
I would stay away from Freeze 12. I tried it in a Pinto, it did not put out better than 63 dregrees on a 90 degree day. I blame the POA valve. Also freeze 12 does not mix with the mineral oil as stated in numerous locations. They stay seperate, I tested it and the oil floats on top like cold fat in water. I tested itthus past weekend. This is very bad for your compressor and will also cause clogs. Changing oil can be tricky and also will affect o-rings and seals. I recommend changing these anyway. Call me with any questions. I just picked up a 30lb can of R-12 on eBay. I paid $450 and should never need anymore, I am actually thinking of restoring the AC in my 71 now.
Considering a new can costs $900 ($30lb) half price was good. Look for a deal, I would use 134a to check for leaks. Trust me with the flange a vacuum does necessarily tell if a leak will happen under pressure. The vacuum pulls it tighter, pressure blows it apart, and at $30 a pound. That's a $90 leak. By the way, Louise has 47 degree air coming out now. Let's hope no leaks happen, if it is good in a few months, then I will have the gasket situation worked out. If you change the o-rings, use neoprene it is good with any refrigerant and any oil. Especially if you plan on pressure testing with 134a.
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Old topic but it needs an update.
If you have the POA valve then it can be calibrated for 134a in your own shop with a set of AC gauges and an air compressor and fittings.
The Pinto POA valve is the same one used in many GM cars, including the 72 Olds Cutlass.
Here is how you adjust it:
http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/general-discussion/53713-poa-valve-adjustment-1972-cutlass.html
The later models have a squarish combination valve that I know nothing about.
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I dont have any pictures, but cars with factory air and the gauge package have a single ac vent to the right of the three gauges. The plastic trim piece is shortened. This is what ford did in place of the dual vents.