Hello again.
The PVS needs to be used if it's working. It prevents EGR vacuum from coming on with engine cold, they usually miss then. Engine needs to be warm to tolerate EGR without missing. There can be a PVS used on spark control too if car has it, or the retard above say 35 mph to drop emissions. That gets delayed until car warms up too, retarded spark not well accepted until engine warm either.
You generally use 'spark ported' vacuum for distributor if car is an emission model say '74 or later. That is vacuum that is off with car at idle but it comes on as soon as butterfly opens. You do not really use constant vacuum on much of anything, at least I don't. Older cars did before emissions but the distributor full advance (centrifugal and vacuum together) will be arranged for it. You read base and full advance and see if they make sense. They went to spark port to lower idle emissions, NOx rises with advance at idle. Unless some device requires it to be that way I generally don't use constant baseplate vacuum (Thermactor pump bypass or a/c/heat control or vacuum wipers come to mind). The venturi vacuum is used if you have the vacuum amplifier used on EGR. Other than that not much other equipment uses that either other than back barrels on some vacuum secondary carbs. Venturi vacuum does indeed increase with speed rather than falling off as you open throttle more and more.
PCV should only be a bigger hose not small line. At idle only a small bleed like vacuum leak but it has to be able to flow bigger amounts for when the vacuum falls off and the major flow switches on. That happens when the poppet drops back open to open the bigger restriction inside valve. Why they rattle. You CAN tee smaller lines into PCV as long as it has a big pathway there. I have been known to take like fish aquarium brass air valves for the air pumps (bubbles y'know LOL) and patch one or even two in to the PCV hose to modify the idle air amount by hand in case I think trying to get the proper idle speed is forcing me to screw idle speed screw too far into the linkage to hold throttleplates too far into the transfer ports. Easy way to preset idle speed screw then not have to touch it to get idle faster or slower to get the speed I want.
If still using a stock type air cleaner with the snorkel and taking heat off exhaust, then make sure the vacuum dashpot that flips open the door to pick cold air with warm engine is working. If not, hot exhaust preheated air added to a warmed up engine will ping like nobody's business. I've also on one peculiar car had to add a spark delay valve as well to slow down distributor vacuum building to make the vacuum come on a bit slower, it had a tendency to ping while cold oddly enough, that fixed that.
PCV is a double ended system, the norm at idle is flow through the air filter to valve cover, through engine and then through the restriction in PCV and back to intake to zoop engine clean. Yes, it has to have vacuum to work right and constant vacuum there. At high engine speeds, the poppet closes to allow the bigger leak to happen then PCV flows like 10X the air and the air filter line on other half then flows backwards, why oil builds in it with worn engine. The engine flows more at that time (blowby) than the PCV can handle and why the flow goes backwards.
If the EGR not working then the timing at that time may be too much and making it ping.
I never memorize the ports by the outside, rather I generally have carb off anyway and easy to trace the vacuum circuits then.
The PVS can drive you nuts, they made many with all kinds of action in them, close, open, different number of ports, you name it. IIRC at least they used to mark the temp at which they work on the side. About all you can do is have known good one and then get motor hot or stone cold and vacuum test for what port does what. Like 50 different ones there. REAL easy for them to give wrong part at the parts store. I've seen 140, 165, 180 degree ones. 2 port, 3 port, 4 port.