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Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: krazi on July 20, 2016, 09:57:28 PM

Title: v6 issues
Post by: krazi on July 20, 2016, 09:57:28 PM

did a cam and engine swap last summer. v6 to v6, 2800. the "newer" engine gets better oil pressure, but for some reason it's blowing motor oil out the tail pipes. (plural, dual exhaust) it only happens over 2100 rpm, and I think it might have fouled the plugs. now that I have some time to get it going again, what could it be that I goofed on? if it was a bad gasket cleaning, then it would be water and antifreeze, right? someone told me it could be the valve rubbers in the top of the engine. any help would be appreciated.

Title: Re: v6 issues
Post by: phils toys on July 21, 2016, 01:50:33 PM

I would agree it is valve related

Title: Re: v6 issues
Post by: 74 PintoWagon on July 22, 2016, 07:43:27 AM

I didn't actually have liquid oil coming out the pipe but it was smoking continuously, valve seals were shot in fact some were just laying on the head, put a new set on and smoke was all gone and didn't use a drop of oil.

Title: Re: v6 issues
Post by: krazi on July 26, 2016, 08:41:57 PM

would it be possible to change the valve seals without pulling the heads? money's kinda tight right now.

Title: Re: v6 issues
Post by: 74 PintoWagon on July 26, 2016, 10:13:41 PM

Yep very easy to do, just need a hand compressor for the springs and a way to hold the valve up, myself I like to use air been doing it for 30+yrs, but there are other ways if you don't have air whatever will hold the valve up, just make sure the piston is at the top..

Title: Re: v6 issues
Post by: Wittsend on July 27, 2016, 12:32:18 PM

And..., if you lack a sufficient compressor just set the piston at top dead center and feed thin rope through the spark plug hole to fill the combustion chamber and keep the valve from dropping.  Hopefully you have a manual transmission and can lock the engine from turning. Otherwise use a socket/bar on the crank pulley to counter the potential crank rotation. Ideally at TDC pushing on the valve spring won't cause the crank to rotate, but when it does.... yikes!

I don't mean to scare you, only caution you. I have used the thin rope method without incident.  Sometimes pushing on the valve spring compresses the rope and the valve will drop slightly. In this case I've, pulled the valve up, use a rubberband looped over the valve stem to hold it and then cut/broken the rubberband after installation.