PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: ToniJ1960 on September 21, 2011, 09:29:49 PM
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T he throwout bearing squeals on my car. 1078 4cyl 4 spd wagon. It gets worse when theres more free play,if its adjusted to basaically no free play,it doesnt seem to do it so much.
I also noticed,after I shift,if I lift up the clutch pedal with my foot,it stops squealing,and stays stopped until I shift again.Is there supposed to be a spring to pull the pedal up some,or is the weight of the pedal itself enough to make the throwout squeal?
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I had this problem for a little while a couple years ago on another clutch set. I was able to take a long painters brush and brush some wheel bearing grease lightly on the input shaft the bearing rides on. It helped a lot but did not completely eliminate the squeal completely. If I remember correctly I changed the bearing and all was good.
There should be a spring on the ball end of your clutch cable. That goes on the front (of the car) side of the clutch fork, and the ball on the back (of the car) side of the fork.
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The clutch cable has the springs I just changed it about 5 or 6 weeks ago.I was just wondering since when I lift up on the pedal with my foot while Im driving it makes the squeal quit.Maybe I could just add a spring to hold it up a little.
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Try adjusting the nut on the bell housing some more. It has worked for me in the past.
Speaking of the new cable, that actually brings to mind that is also something that has caused a bearing to squeal on mine.
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So far so good with the new cable,I found one with the metal on the end that goes through the firewall. At first when I looked at it from inside the car I had no idea what to do to change it.But after I called around and people kept saying $100 or more to change it I got more determined and decided to try harder lol. One person actually qouted $200 or more,well he had his wife call me back.I felt like asking her if he was too busy watching tv to actually make money ;)
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I don't know why but I woke up this morning and remembered what cured my squeaking about three months ago.
Did you have the clutch replaced recently? If so, was the fork pivot stud greased really well?
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It was about 6 years ago it was replaced,and I remember when I got my car back they even said they didnt replace the throwout bearing. I was staying with someone in Ky,and he had it done by his friends who had a shop. It took almost 2 weeks to get my car back,and when I got in it the metal door release arm was gone.I asked and they said it was in the ttrash I could go look in there,and I found it. What a mess they were and charged more than a good place would have too. I think it was close to $400.
So I guess Im lucky the clutch worked this long lol. But if it has to be done again,ill make sure they grease that fork pivot stud.
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Well I guess I need to get the whole clutch redone. Now the pedal isnt coming back up al the way after I shift.I can actually reach down and push the release arm back by hand after I push the clutch in,so I ugess something in there isnt pulling it back anymore the way it should :(
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Sounds like a bad pressure pate
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So far so good with the new cable,I found one with the metal on the end that goes through the firewall. At first when I looked at it from inside the car I had no idea what to do to change it.But after I called around and people kept saying $100 or more to change it I got more determined and decided to try harder lol. One person actually qouted $200 or more,well he had his wife call me back.I felt like asking her if he was too busy watching tv to actually make money ;)
on an early model (71 thru 73?) at the cable end (inside the firewall) the cable is retained/secured by a set of metal prongs or fingers that compress as the cable is pushed into the firewall from the engine compartment.
try this to remove it in a relatively stress free way.
- disconnect the cable from the clutch pedal inside the car.
- position a small hose clamp over the metal fingers inside the car about 1/4" to 1/2" from the end of the fingers (on the inside of the firewall) and tighten it up to the point where the fingers are compressed to a diameter that will fit through the hole in the firewall.
- while the fingers are still compressed, pull/push the cable assembly forward through the firewall to the point where the forward ends of the fingers are forward of the firewall sheetmetal.
- remove the hose clamp and pull the cable assembly free of the firewall