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Author Topic: Manual shifter  (Read 2592 times)

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Offline Jdm071755

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Manual shifter
« on: June 28, 2017, 01:36:39 PM »
1980 wagon shifter. Do this look correct?


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Offline TIGGER

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2017, 01:44:49 PM »
Looks like they fixed the rubber boot for the reverse lock out.  Other than that it looks correct to me.
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Offline Jdm071755

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2017, 02:27:30 PM »
Looks like they fixed the rubber boot for the reverse lock out.  Other than that it looks correct to me.
Thanks for you Help
Joe

Offline robertwwithee

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2017, 03:35:33 PM »
It's correct to me too although I'm used to seeing the 3 bolt flange style for 1980.

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Offline robertwwithee

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2017, 03:36:38 PM »
If u remove hose clamp, push down there's a groove where an E clip would go..

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Offline Jdm071755

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2017, 03:44:22 PM »
If u remove hose clamp, push down there's a groove where an E clip would go..

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Ok thanks


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Offline Jdm071755

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #6 on: June 28, 2017, 03:46:48 PM »
If u remove hose clamp, push down there's a groove where an E clip would go..

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The boot where the hose clamp is pretty dry rotted. Can you get replacements?


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Offline robertwwithee

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2017, 10:15:51 AM »
Not that I know of, racer Walsh makes a nice replacement shifter though.  Can't remember if new rubber is included or not.

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Offline LongTimeFordMan

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2017, 08:57:31 PM »
I had the same problem with a rotted rubber bushing that wouldnt make the reverse lockout work.

I fixed it by cutting off the rubber and adding a spring. You need to find a spring that you can wind around the shifter rod since you cant just slide it over an end.

I added some shims made from 1/8" aluminum wire and stretched the spring to get the tension i like on the reverse lockout.

As mentioned above there is a groove in the rod for a circlip to locate the assembly on the rod.

Mod works great and wont wear out like rubber.

I also painted the boot retainer ring with Rustoleum "Hammered Silver" rattlecan paint and added some shiny (nicjle plated i think) allen head cap screws to spiff up the shifter area.

This is the same mod that racer walsh does to shifters and sells them for $175
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Offline Jdm071755

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2017, 09:26:38 PM »
I had the same problem with a rotted rubber bushing that wouldnt make the reverse lockout work.

I fixed it by cutting off the rubber and adding a spring. You need to find a spring that you can wind around the shifter rod since you cant just slide it over an end.

I added some shims made from 1/8" aluminum wire and stretched the spring to get the tension i like on the reverse lockout.

As mentioned above there is a groove in the rod for a circlip to locate the assembly on the rod.

Mod works great and wont wear out like rubber.

I also painted the boot retainer ring with Rustoleum "Hammered Silver" rattlecan paint and added some shiny (nicjle plated i think) allen head cap screws to spiff up the shifter area.

This is the same mod that racer walsh does to shifters and sells them for $175
Thanks for the idea. I seen the racer Walsh shifter it's now 180. I can do a lot of thing hope I can do this.


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Offline LongTimeFordMan

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2017, 12:11:48 AM »
The process isnt difficult..  the hardest part is finding the right spring. You need one that has enough space between the coils to "wind" it onto the shifter.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

Offline Jdm071755

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2017, 07:58:58 AM »
The process isnt difficult..  the hardest part is finding the right spring. You need one that has enough space between the coils to "wind" it onto the shifter.
Thanks I'm going to try it


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Offline TIGGER

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2017, 07:21:46 PM »
The process isnt difficult..  the hardest part is finding the right spring. You need one that has enough space between the coils to "wind" it onto the shifter.

Agreed, I did the same thing on a my 72 black car I had years ago.  The only thing I did different was tie wrap what was left of the rubber boot back over the spring when I was done.  Worked like a charm. 
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Offline LongTimeFordMan

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2017, 01:36:33 PM »
Well I 3liminated the boot completely andeft the mechanism naked.. doesnt seem to accumulate and dirt...

I inspect it every once in awhile.. been driving it for over a year this way... makes shifting a lot more positive...

Also.. if you need the plastic bushing that fits between the slot at the bottom of the shift rod and the shift rod in the transmission, some Jeeps use a compatible part and its available at a jeep dealer. I think they are about $7
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

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Re: Manual shifter
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2017, 01:39:45 PM »
Well I 3liminated the boot completely andeft the mechanism naked.. doesnt seem to accumulate and dirt...

I inspect it every once in awhile.. been driving it for over a year this way... makes shifting a lot more positive...

Also.. if you need the plastic bushing that fits between the slot at the bottom of the shift rod and the shift rod in the transmission, some Jeeps use a compatible part and its available at a jeep dealer. I think they are about $7
Great. Thanks for all your help


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