Hi, looking for a blower motor resistor for my 72 hatch with 1.6 motor (no AC).  Also the cable used for selecting floor or defrost from the heater control panel.   Anyone know where to buy these items or the part numbers for them?  Would prefer to use the original resistor but if not is there a substitute from Mustang or other that will work?

Thanks!

Richard

I too looked and didn't see the resistor available where one might regularly find them. The resistors are simple wire wound type. The Pinto has three speeds on the blower. Two of the speeds pass through the resistors and the full speed is typically directly wired. The switch determines how the power is routed.


Are you sure it is the resistors that are bad? The switch and the wiring could also be the problem. Sometimes the plastic socket melts. I'll offer the following "Do at your own risk" considerations:


1. Check to confirm that the resistors are bad. Sometimes the contacts are just dirty on the connecton plug or at the switch. Cleaning them might remedy the problem. Sometimes the wires get fried. I have replaced wires and used individual spade connectors in place of the "socket". Just makes sure you note the wire color position before you remove anything.


2. Look to see if another resistor block can be adapted. As you asked perhaps a Mustang resistor set will fit ( ). In the end it is just a simple mount that goes into an opening.


As to the cable the "style" is very common. Sometimes I have cut a "too long" cable sheath to the proper length and then inserted the inner cable wire and bent it as needed.


Unfortunately there are no "Pinto" vendors though some people do sell Pinto parts (NOS or used). Thankfully a blower motor is rather simple and it isn't too difficult to come up with a work-around. When we do Turbo motor installs the factory firewall mounted blower motor is too long. In my case I used a stubby MG blower motor run in reverse polarity and all is good.  We do what we have to do working with old cars. Especially cars that many deemed "Throw-away Appliances."


You also might find this helpful: http://www.resistorguide.com/applications/blower-resistor/

IF..., you can figure out what wires go to where you can just test with a jumper wire from the battery to the terminals on the resistor.  If moving the wire to different terminals gets you various speeds then you will know if the resistors are good - or not. Just make sure you know the proper terminal to apply power to.  My guess is that there are four wires (three speeds). One wire to each resistor, one that bypasses the resistors and one that goes out to the motor.


If you have a volt meter (Harbor Freight often gives them away free with a coupon) you can also check the resistors for continuity and resistance value. And you can also test the switch/wires for voltage.  All the wire terminals at the plug end (except the one to the motor) should read roughly 12 volts - one by one - as the switch steps through making the connections.


Lastly it could be the motor has a lubrication bind. The current through the resistors isn't enough to get it to spin. But on the high setting with full current it overcomes the bind and spins.


Attached (hopefully viewable - click to expand) is the wiring diagram from my Haynes manual (1972 Pinto). As best I can determine:


Power to the switch is the BROWN/orange wire


Low is the RED/orange wire (current passes through both resistors)


Medium is the LIGHT BLUE/ orange wire (current passes through one resistor)


High is the ORANGE/black (current bypasses the resistors)


The diagram does not show the wire color out to the motor. I'm assuming it too is ORANGE/black. So, there are likely two ORANGE/black wires at the connector. At the connector one would read 12 volts (when power is supplied - high setting) and the other would read nothing because it runs directly to the motor and only gets power when the connector is plugged into the resistor block.


Hope this helps.