Dished washer goes in FRONT of the crank sprocket not behind, the one on CAM goes in BACK of sprocket, between the two they stop belt from drifting either way. Dish washer is a belt guide. The crank washer concave, or dish out curve, faces out.
The specialty tools Dick mentioned are for if the cover itself is removed, enough slop in holes to allow it going back on with the seal not concentric with crank nose, it then leaks instantly or very quickly. I've replicated the expensive tool by using say 3 new drill bits closely sized to the gap there with no seal in cover and then build up the rest at the drill bits with feeler gauge pieces until all 3 bit locations are tight and even, the cover will be centered to within .002" or so and run fine then. Tighten down cover bolts carefully then remove drill bits/feelers and then install crank seal. Same idea works beautiful on re-aligning ATX C3 pump body to cover on these too. On that can save tearing up transmission big time.