PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: 74 PintoWagon on June 12, 2013, 11:38:34 AM
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Hey guys, pulled the radiator out and noticed the extension on the left and the support is open all the way, looks like a bigger radiator was available for this car, is this true or am I dreaming??, I searched all over but can't find anything than what I have, only engine options I could find were only a 2.0 and 2.3, was there anything else?, now if there is no option for a bigger radiator is there one that would bolt in without modifications??(don't want to be drilling holes all over the place)figure it wouldn't hurt to have a little more capacity with our 115* summer temps.. Thanks for any info guys..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/Radiator.jpg?t=1371052963)
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http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Radiator/_/N-8ii30?filterByKeyWor d=cu426&fromString=search&isSearchByPart Number=true (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Radiator/_/N-8ii30?filterByKeyWord=cu426&fromString=search&isSearchByPartNumber=true)
This is the one I put in my wagon last fall. It's for A/C cars so it's wider than stock but bolts to factory bolt holes. Mine has a 2.3L but I'm not sure if the hoses are on the same sides if you have a 2.0L.
If you order online there is a 20% discount at checkout for promo code DAD20 which probably expires after fathers day. Hope this helps.
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Hoses are in the same locations. :)
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when i first got my pinto it use to spit out antifreeze when ever i stopped,what a mess,plus it ran a little on the hot side.installed the radiator list above plus went to 5 bladed fan from mustang 2, coolest theroslat at autozone and istalled a radiator overfill tank.car runs great in all kinds of weather even 105 we had up here in turlock last weekend while in car cruise/show. cooler it runs the better. chris
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Hoses are in the same locations. :)
That's good to know. I just ordered one for my '73 since I'm gonna put the 2.0 back in temporarily so I can drive it. $115 shipped with the discount is too cheap to pass up.
BTW 74 PintoWagon, the new rad, thermostat & water pump dropped my temps from 205 in summer down to 175 degrees & in winter I can barely get it above 155 degrees. That's with a tiny 12" flex fan. I had a 15" fan on it & couldn't get over 130 in winter so I swapped fans to stop cooling it down. The bigger fan in summer would keep it below 170 but I may go electric this year so I can get heat next winter instead of just warm air.
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Art come on over to Pinto World and I could show you the difference in radiators your only 1 mile from me. Also we have another newbe name John who has a yellow 73 wagon and 2 V-8 Mustang 2 he lives next to water tanks on river about 2 blocks from you. And yea the 115 temp does zoop ! Fred ;D 8)
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I just put in a new radiator in my 71 with a 2.3. I got it from Oriellys. The application was a 76 2.3 with air. The lower passenger side outlet is curved over to the passenger side somewhat so I had to shorten the hose for this same application. Not enough room for a fan blade so I mounted a small electric fan on the front side of radiator. I dont even have to turn on the fan most of the time. Works great.
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The pinto radiator came in two sizes. 17" and 20". '74 and up could use both. To install the 20" in my '73 I had to cut, move and weld in the drivers side radiator edge support. I overlapped the metal to increase strength. It took time to think out, but overall it was pretty straight forward.
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Thanks much for the info guys things make sense now, this car had A/C but I guess they never put the right radiator in..
Pinto5.0 thanks for the link and the code, I'll be ordering it first thing in the morning, mine is a 2.3 so it should be good, sounds like it should do real well...
Fred, was nice meeting you today and enjoyed talking with ya, we'll have to hook up again sometime and if I can do anything for ya just let me know.. Thanks again guys... 8)
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I hope it cures your temp issues. Keep in mind that if the AZ temps sill heat it up then a good fan & shroud can easily pull another 15 degrees out of it.
Also your tranny lines may need some coaxing into place since the in/outlets are farther apart but this could be a good time to splice in a trans cooler after the stock one if you haven't already.
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I hope it cures your temp issues. Keep in mind that if the AZ temps sill heat it up then a good fan & shroud can easily pull another 15 degrees out of it.
Also your tranny lines may need some coaxing into place since the in/outlets are farther apart but this could be a good time to splice in a trans cooler after the stock one if you haven't already.
Thanks, it's got a pretty good size fan on it now(not stock)so I'll give it a try and see what happens, yeah, I already thought about a cooler and I have one now that would fit perfect.
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Here is a picture of the two factory radiators side by side (17" - 20").
See post #7 for the modifications to the radiator cradle to accommodate the 20" radiator in a 71-73 Pinto. Doubling up the metal (sliding over each other) strengthens the area.
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Thanks for the pic, quite a bit of difference there..
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Well, ordered the radiator, new hoses, T-sat housing and t-stat today, hope the radiator fits because according to the Zone it don't fit this car, oh well guess I'll find out soon enough, lol...
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Talk about fast shipping. I ordered it yesterday & it came today. It's 20" wide BTW & looks identical to Wittsends pic.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/P82A0293_zps3f2b7d65.jpg)
Early 74's had the narrow early radiator support from the '71 to '73 cars so that maybe why Autozone says it won't fit. Considering the side extension on your original radiator I'd guess you have the late '74 radiator support so it should bolt right in.
The 1st one went in my '76 wagon in 15 minutes so I know it fits. This one will either end up in my '73 sedan or I may have a '71 in my near future to use it in but those will need widened.
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you guys are so lucky that thye make a radiator for your cars!! they dont make one for the v6 pinto/bobcats!!
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you guys are so lucky that thye make a radiator for your cars!! they dont make one for the v6 pinto/bobcats!!
Should be able to get yours re cored?, of course if the tanks are bad then that's another story..
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Talk about fast shipping. I ordered it yesterday & it came today. It's 20" wide BTW & looks identical to Wittsends pic.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/P82A0293_zps3f2b7d65.jpg)
Early 74's had the narrow early radiator support from the '71 to '73 cars so that maybe why Autozone says it won't fit. Considering the side extension on your original radiator I'd guess you have the late '74 radiator support so it should bolt right in.
The 1st one went in my '76 wagon in 15 minutes so I know it fits. This one will either end up in my '73 sedan or I may have a '71 in my near future to use it in but those will need widened.
Ordered mine yesterday and an hour later got an e-mail saying shipped, according to the tracking I should have it Tuesday, we'll see...
Guess that makes sense, radiator support is open all the way, it did look weird having an extension didn't make sense at first, lol..
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RECORE IS AN OPTION BUT STILL USING OLD TANKS THAT COULD BE A PROBLEM RIGHT AFTER RECORE PLUS I WOULD END UP PAYING FOR FOR A RECORE THEN U GUYS PAY FOR A BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX WITH WARRENTY!! GOT 2 QUOTES HERE IN TOWN FOR $300.00 AND $357.00. SO I FLUSHED IT AND SEEMS TO FLOW WELL SO TILL IT PLUGS UP OR CAUSE ME A PROBLEM WILL KEEP ON LOOKING IN EPAY FOR A NOS ONE!!
GOOD LUCK AND TAKE CARE!!
ERIC
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Yeah, if tanks are not good it's a waste, I've had quite a few done and last a long time, but I also had some that the radiator shop wouldn't do it for that reason they said tanks were going away and wouldn't last six months.
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just suprised they dont make parts for these little cars anymore!! like gas tanks and radiators!! seem like a cheap part they can make some $$ coin on!! and would think the mustang 2 and pinto v6 radiator would be the same!!! o well take care!!
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Must be the ole "supply and demand thing" all about the money, if they don't see huge profits too bad you lose, it's a shame but that's the way it goes I guess.. ::) :(
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I agree with the supply and demand but these little cars are making a big come back I feel, the listings on epay lately have been crazy a lot of them and at high prices!!
but if I owned a 60's Camaro or mustang I could build the whole car from a parts catalog don't even need the original car other then the title and vin tag!! I like to drive something total different, so that's why I own 2 bobcats a hatch back and a wagon!!
o well take care!!!
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I hear ya on being different I feel the same way, hopefully these cars will keep getting more popular and maybe someone will start making more parts for them..
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Radiator came today big difference from the old one, shouldn't be a problem now no matter how hot it gets, looks like it fits a variety of vehicles too from the string of bolt holes it has, we'll see how it all fits in the morning..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/NewRadiator.jpg?t=1371508016)
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maybe a problem with the height? the replacement looks to be considerably taller than the original
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Shouldn't be a problem, I put them side by side and the holes that matched put it at the same height at the top, but we'll find out for sure this morning..
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It fits, trust me 8)
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Here's a pic of it installed in my '76 wagon. That 15" fan made it run too cool in winter so I went to a 12".
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/1976%20Pinto/004.jpg)
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Looks like the same fan as I have now, my spacer is longer though, may have to change that?, I'll find out real quick though heading out to install it now, I'll take a pic when I'm done..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/Carb.jpg?t=1371918870)
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That pic is deceiving. That fan is an inch from the radiator. I put thin cardboard against it while I tightened the fan so I wouldn't crush the fins or shred my knuckles.
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Wow, that was easy took less than 20 minutes, I'm gonna pay for that down the road, lol, bolted right up cooler lines slid right on, just had to trim the radiator hose a bit but that's it, thought the fan spacer was to long but it's just right fan is about an inch from the radiator, I did put the fan on before the radiator though, when the T-stat housing and T-stat gets here I can put the top hose on and that project will be done!..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/RadiatorInstalled.jpg?t=1371577891)
Now about the heater, I notice your top hose goes to the pump and the bottom goes to the carb then intake, so how does that work looks like a dead end for the water at the intake?, is there a passage in the intake to the head so it circulates?.. Mine was all jacked up it had a piece of tubing with hose going from the pump to the intake and the two stubs sticking out the firewall, looks like the heater core has to come out to replace the hoses, that should be fun...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/HeaterHoses.jpg?t=1371577875)
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LOL, told you it was easy :P Yeah, the heater box has to come out to swap hoses. It's a pain but easy compared to an AC box. You may want to put a new core in while you're at it (I found mine on ebay for 38 bucks) & whatever you do put good hose in the box. I got Goodyear brand at a semi shop because it will last. You only need a few feet. Get quality clamps while you're there too. Pulling the box to replace a generic Chinese clamp would stink.
The weird hose routing is to get heat in winter. It bypasses the thermostat so you don't have to wait for the whole engine to get to temp. There's a port on the intake & water goes from there through the choke then heater.
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I had a vehicle once before a long time ago that was like that, had to pull the heater box to get to the hoses, someone had to be pissed at the world to come up with that, LOL, that's gonna be fun because it has an AC unit under the dash but it's an add on unit sticks up where the glove box is can't even see how it mounts. Yeah, nothing but the best goes on and a new core, I only plan on doing this once, lol, I'll bet the one in there is no good that's why the hoses were cut and bypassed..
So, I take it water flows through the intake to that water manifold on the intake then through the choke and on to the heater then to the water pump in a circle right?, I also have a wire going to the choke so it's electrical, so what is the reason for water passing through the choke then??, sorry about all the questions but I'm totally new to these things..
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If it's bypassed it probably leaks. Once you get the AC unit out of the way it's fairly easy to remove. I took my passenger seat out which gave me a lot of room.
I'm not sure which direction the flow runs. It may go the other direction but the hot water tells the carb the engines warm enough to lean out. The electric plug is for something else I think, usually a solenoid to stop dieseling. My water choke works but mine does run on when hot so I figure that solenoid is bad on mine if that's what it's for. I'm keeping my eyes open for the correct NOS carb to straighten it out.
If I'm wrong on the 12 volt connection maybe someone can elaborate. It seems redundant to have an electric & water choke simultaneously .
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That's what I figure so I'm just gonna put a new core in. I was looking at the manual and it does look fairly easy to take out, wish I knew what kind of AC unit it is because it's nothing like what the manual shows, gotta be some aftermarket thing but I'll figure it out and it's getting trashed since it don't work anyways..
According to the manual it is a typical electric choke, I pulled the water passage off and all there is is a disc of some kind behind it and wouldn't come off, can't see how it would effect a lean/rich condition??, maybe someone else knows.. Those solenoids for dieseling are used instead of the idle screw, all they are is a plunger when power is turned on it pushes the throttle open, when power is turned off it retracts and the butterflies close up tight preventing dieseling, they been used forever and are a cool deal... Which carb you looking for?, I'm all for making things simpler and reliable..
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I still need to get the numbers off my carb but I found a '75 carb that's visually identical but at $169 bucks it has to wait a few weeks. I have too many other things ahead of it for the money including a '71 I need to look at. I have 2 NOS carbs for a '73 that are identical but the wagons an auto trans & the carbs are stick. One is for my '73 4-speed car & the other is for my wagon engine when it finds it's way into my sons '80 5-speed car.
I didn't realize that wire went to the choke. It must heat a coil behind the water choke. When it's cold the choke closes & richens up the carb. After it heats up & the choke opens it leans back out. That's what I was referring to. Usually they're either electric OR mechanical.
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Sounds like your busy, lol, if there's a carb that's plain and simple that bolts on I'm all or it don't need all this other stuff..
Yep, according to the manual that wire goes to a disc type thing they call it "electric choke heater", then right in front of it right behind the water pasage is called "thermostatic housing", how this all works together I haven't a clue, but I'd just as soon have a plain ole everyday electric choke, like the one that's been working for 30-40 years or better, lol..
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The simplest swap would be a 350 Holley with electric choke. I have 2 new ones but the tranny kickdown is the reason I wont run one. I'm not in the mood to cobble together something that may not work correctly & could cause the trans to burn up. Ford & Chrysler wont tolerate an out of adjustment kickdown for long.
The stock carb also delivers a few extra mpg over the Holley & I'm trying to get the wagon up to 25 mpg rather than the 17 it's getting on the 37 year old carb. I put a kit in it but it runs exactly the same as before so I give up. This is the smoothest running 2.3 I've ever had. The timing is dead on, new cap, rotor, wires & plugs so that just leaves the carb as the cause of the crappy mpg.
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The simplest swap would be a 350 Holley with electric choke. I have 2 new ones but the tranny kickdown is the reason I wont run one. I'm not in the mood to cobble together something that may not work correctly & could cause the trans to burn up. Ford & Chrysler wont tolerate an out of adjustment kickdown for long.
The stock carb also delivers a few extra mpg over the Holley & I'm trying to get the wagon up to 25 mpg rather than the 17 it's getting on the 37 year old carb. I put a kit in it but it runs exactly the same as before so I give up. This is the smoothest running 2.3 I've ever had. The timing is dead on, new cap, rotor, wires & plugs so that just leaves the carb as the cause of the crappy mpg.
Could be the alcohol-gas we're forced to run. I know mine runs better on straight gas...costs a pretty penny, and it's hard to find, but totally worth it. :)
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The bad gas probably contributes to it but I have a dead spot in the carb under load just past 1/4 throttle & until 3/4 throttle I get no acceleration. The quickie rebuild didn't help it at all.
I've seen posts with similar symptoms & in the cases where an NOS or Autozone rebuild was installed the drivability & mileage went up drastically. Since this engine only has 60K original miles & the oil barely gets dirty between oil changes I think it's worth splurging on a carb at some point.
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The simplest swap would be a 350 Holley with electric choke. I have 2 new ones but the tranny kickdown is the reason I wont run one. I'm not in the mood to cobble together something that may not work correctly & could cause the trans to burn up. Ford & Chrysler wont tolerate an out of adjustment kickdown for long.
The stock carb also delivers a few extra mpg over the Holley & I'm trying to get the wagon up to 25 mpg rather than the 17 it's getting on the 37 year old carb. I put a kit in it but it runs exactly the same as before so I give up. This is the smoothest running 2.3 I've ever had. The timing is dead on, new cap, rotor, wires & plugs so that just leaves the carb as the cause of the crappy mpg.
Yeah, the Holley is about as simple as simple can get to tune, but not good for mileage with the big primaries you'd be better off with a Q-Jet with the small primaries, kickdown is nothing to adjust and simple to hook up if the carb is sideways.
Must be something wrong with the carb if you're only getting 17mpg, mine was totally jacked up when I picked it up and got over 20mpg with it, first thing I did when I got it home was check the timing belt, somebody put a new one on and the cam was 10* retarted no wonder I got black smoke when I nailed the throttle. But I was thinking where I'm at I can get by without a choke not that big of a deal, if this carb(5200)can give good mileage(it is a new one) I may just eliminate the choke and just run a hose from the pump to the heater and back to the T-stat housing, it should circulate and give heat I would think..
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Around town mileage is 14 with that car. Highway barely breaks 17 so yeah, that puppy isn't right. My timing belt was 3 teeth off when I got this car too. It ran ok but wouldn't go over 65 mph. Even with the bad carb this car starts easy cold & lights off instantly when warm. My only complaint is mileage but that's a biggie since I know it should do way better.
I don't think you would have any issue bypassing the water choke. See how it goes. You can always swap on a later 5200 with electric choke
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Took the AC unit out of my 72. If you want I'll have it cleaned & pressure tested ?
Problem with that, as already said, a NOS one can be had for cheap.
I picked up a NOS one with the seals for 60 bucks, for the standard heater I'm going to be using.
and yes.......the AC unit is a pain to take out !
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Took the AC unit out of my 72. If you want I'll have it cleaned & pressure tested ?
Problem with that, as already said, a NOS one can be had for cheap.
I picked up a NOS one with the seals for 60 bucks, for the standard heater I'm going to be using.
and yes.......the AC unit is a pain to take out !
Yeah, I'm not looking forward to that, been kinda been leaving it for last, LOL...
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Around town mileage is 14 with that car. Highway barely breaks 17 so yeah, that puppy isn't right. My timing belt was 3 teeth off when I got this car too. It ran ok but wouldn't go over 65 mph. Even with the bad carb this car starts easy cold & lights off instantly when warm. My only complaint is mileage but that's a biggie since I know it should do way better.
I don't think you would have any issue bypassing the water choke. See how it goes. You can always swap on a later 5200 with electric choke
I had mine up to 75 and seemed to run ok, of course retarding the cam gives more top end but 10* YIKES, it sure wasn't a ball of fire on the bottom end though, LOL, don't know if it's the quality of the belt but the closest I could get it is 4* advance, but that's ok it just gives more bottom end and if the belt stretches it'll just get closer to straight up..
Yeah, I can't see can't issues with bypassing it, but I just wonder if the intake needs heat to run good?, I know Chevy IL6's do but I'm gonna try it and see what happens... So the later 5200's don't have the water passage huh, think I will look into that, thanks for the heads up..
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I think late '76 or early '77 the MII & Pintos started getting electric chokes.
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Thanks I'll look into those... 8)
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-1976-Ford-pinto-rebuilt-2BBL-HOLLEY-CARB-/350819910557?hash=item51ae7f039d&item=350819910557&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-1976-Ford-pinto-rebuilt-2BBL-HOLLEY-CARB-/350819910557?hash=item51ae7f039d&item=350819910557&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr)
I think this fits '77 but it's sans water choke
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Thanks for the link, it says 75-76 should fit 74 no problem, looks identical to mine without the water passage though, I'll have to take it off again and check I may be able to just eliminate it on mine, or maybe just replace the choke assembly??.. Thanks again..
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Well, here's mine looks identical, looks like the water manifold isn't part of the rebuild, gonna try it without water and see what happens..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/Carb.jpg?t=1371918870)
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Judging by the screw in fuel filter in your pic that's a late carb. The earlier ones had a hose barb to connect the fuel line instead of a filter. I think the screw in filter started in '75
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You're right, checked the manual and it shows a press in barb..
Got it all back together yesterday and went to fire it up and no spark, some testing shows a bad coil also the water pump started leaking, weird how it all happens while just sitting there,lol. Think I'll look into losing the points at the same time too, haven't mess with points in ages, LOL...
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Well, had some old wires and a coil laying around and it worked fired right up. New water pump, T-stat housing and T-stat and no leaks, ran it for an hour and never went over 180*, I think I'm good to go on this deal.. Now onto the next project, since the heater hoses were whacked off I figured it had to be because the heater core is bad, sure as heck looked inside and you can see a trace of dry liquid at the bottom of the heater box and I can see why it never got fixed, before you can get to the heater box this dealer add on A/C unit has to come out, oh what fun this ought to be a riot,LOL, we'll see what happens tomorrow...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/ACUnit.jpg)
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I wonder if that's a standard heater box once the A/C unit is out of the way?
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Looks completely different than mine.
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Looking at the manual it looks like it from what can be seen?, got a couple of errands to do this morning hope to get it out by this afternoon I'll take some pics. It is a totally independent system though, has it's own control panel separate from the factory heater controls, and there's nothing in the manual about it either so it ought to be fun trying to figure how it's mounted in there..
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havent looked at mine but maybe you have a dealer installed ac?i have a dealer installed ac all contols are indepentant of reg heater controls. good luck chris
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It is a dealer installed unit, what a pain getting it out I sure wouldn't want to be the installer,lol. It is a standard heater box with parts missing, they didn't use the left vent duct to register a hose from the AC went there, also the right vent is not there there's a plate covering the hole, the AC unit fits up to the register, also they added a register in the dash next to the heater controls so I now have hole there, but that's ok because it's a perfect place for oil and water gauges and I can eliminate the idiot lights. Now all I need to do is find the missing vent parts and glove box and I'll be all set, next step replace the heater core.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/ACUnit-1.jpg?t=1372786723)
Now, does anybody know what this is for?, I looked at the wiring diagrams and it's not there, the box was attached to a metal bracket and was hanging with one screw in the middle and didn't look like it belonged there beside the AC unit??..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0003-1.jpg?t=1372733650)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0004-1.jpg?t=1372733651)
This is what the plug looks like and it's part of the factory harness.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0002-1.jpg?t=1372733663)
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Warning buzzer ?
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Going by the base number-14A554- Ford calls it - ACTUATOR (seat belt & ignition warning system) Before 1/75
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Going by the base number-14A554- Ford calls it - ACTUATOR (seat belt & ignition warning system) Before 1/75
That's a complex POS for an early Pinto. I wonder if it worked longer than 5 minutes....
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Don't think so there's nothing to make sound it's just a little circuit board??, and there's two small ones there one for the door and seat belts according to the manual..
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Going by the base number-14A554- Ford calls it - ACTUATOR (seat belt & ignition warning system) Before 1/75
Interesting, wonder what kind of warning you get for a point ignition??..
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That's a complex POS for an early Pinto. I wonder if it worked longer than 5 minutes....
That's funny, LOL... ;D ;D
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I believe that is the box for the seat belt interlock system that was only used on 1974 year model cars. In 74 only you could not start the car unless the seat belt for the driver was fastened and passenger if there was one. This was for the front seats only. There was a switch (push button) under the hoad on left fender side that you could push for a one time start. There was a pressure switch under the seat cushions to tell the box that the seat was occupied and if I recall correctly as you pulled the belt out it closed a switch to tell the box that the belt was fastened. Most were wired around many years ago as the motoring public did not like big brother telling them that they had to fasten the seat belt before they could start the car.
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I believe that is the box for the seat belt interlock system that was only used on 1974 year model cars. In 74 only you could not start the car unless the seat belt for the driver was fastened and passenger if there was one. This was for the front seats only. There was a switch (push button) under the hoad on left fender side that you could push for a one time start. There was a pressure switch under the seat cushions to tell the box that the seat was occupied and if I recall correctly as you pulled the belt out it closed a switch to tell the box that the belt was fastened. Most were wired around many years ago as the motoring public did not like big brother telling them that they had to fasten the seat belt before they could start the car.
Wow never knew that, so I take it this is the push button switch you're talking about??, was wondering about that one too since nothing happens when you push it, makes sense now though guess it's been deactivated because you can just reach in and start it don't have to sit in the seat.. Thanks for the info much appreciated..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0002-2.jpg?t=1373468875)
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Chrysler tried that stupidity as well. Only problem was the system was garbage & 6 months after you bought your car it refused to start, belt or no belt.
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That had to zoop, glad mine's not hooked up or it would have to come off real quick..
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Well, got the heater box out and all apart today, just have to clean it out and take out about 5lbs of crud,LOL, got to get a core and make a couple of gaskets and put er back together..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/HeaterBox.jpg?t=1373487523)
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My orange '74 Runabout was all of three months old the first (and only) time there was a malfunction of the seatbelt/starter interlock. I consulted the owners manual, pushed the little red button under the hood, and all was well. My dad took it back to the dealership while I was at school a few days later for its first oil change and had them disconnect that nonsense while he was there. He did not tell me at the time, so thinking the system was still active, I continued to buckle up... a habit that has stuck with me from that time on! I discovered the "modification" about a year later when my girlfriend got in and started it without buckling the seatbelt! As nnn0wqk pointed out, it was a one-year-only thing; 1974.
Dwayne :)
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One year only kinda tells ya something, wonder how many got stranded because of that that system..
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Well keep in mind this was a federal mandate system. All the car companies had it. I remember JC Whitney selling just a tongue to bypass the system I believe on GM cars it was suppose to be for people to use that parked lots of cars? I never did disconnect mine and it still functions. Guess that got me into the habit of wearing the belt.
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Federal huh don't remember that one??, interesting why it was only one year though wonder what happened?..
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I was only 17-18 at the time so memory may be a little dim. I would guess there was so much out cry over the whole thing that they backed off. They to this day still have the warning system it is just now you can start the car even if you not buckled in. I suppose the failure rate could have been high enough that it became a saftey issue not being able to get the thing to start too? Who knows. Its like the unleaded fuel sticker you still find at the gas cap. When was the last time you found gas with lead in it? Most of these laws once they are on the book they never get changed. In this case something must have happened to get them to back off. Maybe someone with a better memory of those times will jump in here with an idea or two.
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Well, unfortunately I was quite older at the time,LOL, but it still escapes me on it. But you're probably right about failure and mass complaints seen that before on different things.
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Well, while I waited for the heater core to get here I got tied up in other stuff but yesterday decided to service the tranny and change the oil in the motor, while under the car I noticed coolant on the ground, come to find out the lower radiator hose outlet has a pin hole where it was brazed on, so I guess today's project is pulling the "new" radiator and fix the leak, was hoping to get the heater box all back together and back in the car, oh well....
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That blows :(
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Yeah it does, but story of my life if there's a bad one in the pile guess who gets it, I always tell them at the counter want to weed out the junk just sell me something, lol... :D
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Done, rad out soldered back in and no leaks, in less than an hour, try that with one of these new cars, LOL... Heater box is next..
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My grandfather's '76 wagon had a 5 blade fan on it that came with with factory A/C. I do have a bit of bad news though - this was such a great thread and I was going to order a new radiator, but autozone doesn't seem to have these anymore. When I go to checkout it says the requested quantity is not available. :( They have have a 20% off deal going too and they are far cheaper than anywhere else I've come across. Grrrr...
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My grandfather's '76 wagon had a 5 blade fan on it that came with with factory A/C. I do have a bit of bad news though - this was such a great thread and I was going to order a new radiator, but autozone doesn't seem to have these anymore. When I go to checkout it says the requested quantity is not available. :( They have have a 20% off deal going too and they are far cheaper than anywhere else I've come across. Grrrr...
Holy cow, I tried it too. We bought the last of them
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I'm going to go to the store tomorrow and ask them about it. Maybe they have one somewhere. It sucks because my hatchback has what seems to be a very new radiator, it's just not the heavy duty one for A/C, which I plan on installing in my car. I have the old A/C one from my grandfather's car, maybe I should just use it? Do radiators go bad? There seems to be a bit of gunk inside, but I do know they make cleaners.
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Wow glad I got mine when I did, somebody has to have them somewhere though I would think..
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They are still on Ebay under part# CU426 so it could be that AutoZone's warehouse is out. Hopefully they will stock them again.
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Well that's good, almost tempted to get another one for a spare just in case..
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I did see those, but they are $201.XX. Quite a big difference from the $115 shipped somebody else mentioned, so I'll wait and see if autozone gets more in. RockAuto has a Pro Rad/APDI one on there for $176, but that's still a big difference. I do at least have a 5% off coupon for there, but it doesn't take off that much.
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I made a couple calls & apparently the warehouse is temporarily out of stock which is why the order wont go through. How long before they have stock or if they will re-stock nobody knows but the new part number will be B426 if it ever hits the warehouse.
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Thanks for the heads up, I'm saving that number.
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Ok now that the radiator issue has been fixed it's back to the heater box, cleaned it all up and made my heater core gaskets today and it's ready to put back together... But something puzzles me, the old core and the new one both have 3/4" top and 5/8" bottom hose fittings, but the pump fitting, the choke manifold and the intake fitting are all 5/8", and the old core had 5/8" hoses someone forced 5/8" hose on the 3/4" fitting?, what's up with this?, do I have the wrong heater core?, searched all over and all have the same core with 3/4 top and 5/8 bottom. It's just not making any sense to me I am totally cornfused, what am I missing here???... And looking at Joe's setup he has the same size hoses on both too???
(http://www.joe-escobar.com/pinto/Engine-swap29.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/HeaterCoreGaskets.jpg?t=1374545291)
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If memory serves me Ford actually used a 3/4 to 5/8 hose on that heater fitting. Never made much since to me either. Kind of like putting the hose connections on the passenger side of the fire wall!! Not one of Fords better ideas. Try Napa or some of the other chain stores and see what they might have. Or get an adapter and a small lenght of 3/4 hose and go to 5/8. I looked on Ebay and they have a molded hose with those sizes up that is not quite what you want.
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When I put my heater back in, I used regular hose and bought an adapter that allowed me to put the 2 hose sizes together, using hose clamps.
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Thanks guys, I have seen universal hose with 5/8 to 3/4 before I'll see if I can find some local, if not I'll just go the adapter route I could make one if I had to. Just don't make sense why there isn't 3/4 on both ends??, but heater hose on the inside of the firewall don't make much sense either, lol..
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Ok, got the heater box all cleaned up and back together and ready to go back in just need the hoses, measured the top hole in the firewall and 3/4 hose will fit so I'll go that route with an adapter, now the question is which goes where?, I've looked at pics and I see some with the top hose going to the pump and bottom to the intake and vice versa, but now that it all ends up being 5/8 anyhow I was wondering if it makes any difference which way they're routed, just want to route them to get the most heat??, what you guys think??..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/HeaterBox-1.jpg?t=1374720589)
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You want the flow going in the lower inlet & out the top to avoid air pockets in the core
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That makes sense definitely don't want any air pockets, I take it the top hose goes to the pump then.
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That makes sense definitely don't want any air pockets, I take it the top hose goes to the pump then.
That's a good question. I would assume so since the lower hose on the radiator is the return to the pump & the water then goes into the block passages 1st.
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Kinda what I was thinking..
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Art I find heater useless here as U should 2 months out of the year with a little cold, when you come buy tomorrow I will show U all the difference systems. Most of the cars are apart and you can see what U need, and make a decision. I do have 2 real blaster Piper aircraft A/C systems. Fred :)
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Thanks Fred, I'll see ya tomorrow...
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As an update, I tried again just for hits and giggles to order a radiator from autozone, and it worked. They have another deal going $20 off and free shipping over $75 so I got mine for the same price someone else mentioned: $115. Sure beats $175. I also went to the store and asked about it and they had them available so I ordered one from the store too before I was piddling online. I'd still rather pay full price $135 than $175, but looks like I'll have to take that one back I paid full price for. That $20 will help me buy more parts I need...
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Back in stock, good to know.. 8)
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Back in stock, good to know.. 8)
Must be hit & miss. I tried last nite just to check stock & it didn't go through. I's suggest trying a couple times a day if you are really after one & see if you get lucky.
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Sounds like they don't stock very many at a time, and since they are getting hard to find they go as fast as they come in, I must have ordered just at the right time..
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Had a chance to work on the car today, put the new heater core in and got it stuffed back in what a PITA that was, anyhow it's all hooked up got the hoses all on but I think I got them on backwards because there's no heat, the top hose goes to the pump and the bottom goes to the intake, hoses get hot but no heat, I'm sure there's no air in there because I had to add a fair amount of coolant besides what was in there, only thing I can think of is the hoses are on backwards, anyone else have this same problem??..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0003-2.jpg?t=1377123370)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0001-1.jpg?t=1377123370)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0002-3.jpg?t=1377123370)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/EngineCompartment.jpg?t=1377129514)
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Art come buy tomorrow I can show you all the different hook ups. I still have 3 74's out there with and without A/C. 2 are wagons but that makes no difference on instal. John I sold him 73 wagon with A/C he is a mile from you we can check out his 73 V-8 wagon. Fred :)
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Are the hoses getting hot?
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Are the hoses getting hot?
Yes they are.
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Art come buy tomorrow I can show you all the different hook ups. I still have 3 74's out there with and without A/C. 2 are wagons but that makes no difference on instal. John I sold him 73 wagon with A/C he is a mile from you we can check out his 73 V-8 wagon. Fred :)
Thanks Fred, I'll try and come over in the morning sometime..
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I'm on my 2nd Autozone radiator in 2 years. Free replacement the 2nd time because of "lifetime" warranty. There is a supersession that a marginal counterperson (most all of them) won't be able to figure out, but is still available. I had to redrill 2 mounting holes in the radiator brackets to fit the core support of my '74, but no big deal. Heater core replacement actually wasn't bad at all, but I don't have A/C either.
I got a complete 2.3 from Fred, and will be re-ringing it and replacing the bottom end. FYI Fred, this engine was rebuilt not too long ago as the bearings (0.50mm) were literally like new, and was bored 1mm over with no ridge. Re-ring with my head and cam and it'll go another 150K miles. Thanks again!
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I got one from the Zone too but it bolted right on, it has holes for different applications it seems like, no A/C either but core was still a pain but I guess it wasn't that bad I've had worse,LOL..
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Well heck guess I had air in there after all, started it up this morning and walla heat all kinds of it and the wife is happy,lol.. Now that that's done I found another issue, after I shut it off I saw vapors coming out the top of the carb and saw a bit of fuel on the throttle plates so it's drooling, guess I'll pull it apart and put a kit in it, it never ends, LOL..
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If you don't have a weight or checkball under the pump shooter then normal heat can bubble fuel out of a carb in great shape. The checkball is to stop that.
There is no way you can avoid trapped air in a heater core with both outlets on same end. It will have to have an internal divider to work that way or the coolant would simply short circuit from inlet to outlet and no heat at all. The internal divider means one pass must possibly trap air regardless of how you hook up hoses.
Ford has been making double sized hose end hoses for forty years trying to force people to buy more factory hoses. A quick trip to parts store for a plastic reducer or even better Home Depot for plumbing parts to make a metal reducer that lasts forever. Been doing it to use bulk hose (MUCH cheaper!) for the same forty years. On my stupid Focus cars with 9 pieces of hose, all I use is the main upper and lower radiator ones, the other seven are replaced by bulk hose using the reducers. I checked the Motorcraft official parts prices as compared to bulk hose and $102 dollar savings on hoses alone! When the metal tubes finally decomposed into pieces on my Mustang II 2.3 I made up copper ones for little or nothing, they lasted the life of the car. Hint, I rebuilt the engine three times, car had like 450,000 miles on it, and one very tired Mustang II when it was all done.
Who cares whether the outlets are all the same size, they do it to make you cave in and spend more money. Not this boy.......
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If you don't have a weight or checkball under the pump shooter then normal heat can bubble fuel out of a carb in great shape. The checkball is to stop that.
Yeah I know, carb was on there when I got the car so I figure I may as well go over it that way It'll be fresh and I know what I have.
There is no way you can avoid trapped air in a heater core with both outlets on same end. It will have to have an internal divider to work that way or the coolant would simply short circuit from inlet to outlet and no heat at all. The internal divider means one pass must possibly trap air regardless of how you hook up hoses.
Ford has been making double sized hose end hoses for forty years trying to force people to buy more factory hoses. A quick trip to parts store for a plastic reducer or even better Home Depot for plumbing parts to make a metal reducer that lasts forever. Been doing it to use bulk hose (MUCH cheaper!) for the same forty years. On my stupid Focus cars with 9 pieces of hose, all I use is the main upper and lower radiator ones, the other seven are replaced by bulk hose using the reducers. I checked the Motorcraft official parts prices as compared to bulk hose and $102 dollar savings on hoses alone! When the metal tubes finally decomposed into pieces on my Mustang II 2.3 I made up copper ones for little or nothing, they lasted the life of the car. Hint, I rebuilt the engine three times, car had like 450,000 miles on it, and one very tired Mustang II when it was all done.
Who cares whether the outlets are all the same size, they do it to make you cave in and spend more money. Not this boy.......
Well, GM has two size hoses too but they also have the matching fittings, and every Ford I've had was the same, this is the first time I've seen this it kinda threw me there,lol. I put straight bulk hose on this too got less than $10 in it, fortunately the tubes are still useable but I see making some new ones down the road, but right now it's working good with plenty of heat..
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Using solder and a torch you can easily solder some copper tube up to make replacement tubing, if using bulk hose it doesn't even have to be the right exact shape, just use some thinking and you can make the pipe in like 10 minutes. I've got at least one piece of copper replacement pipe on every car I drive, nowadays they want to plastic pipe every hard piece under the hood, the plastic blows out when it gets old. I can actually make a copper one for less than Ford charges for the plastic, ridiculous.
I've got a '74 Mustang II a/c radiator on my '80 Pinto wagon, not hard to get it in there at all but it hangs a bit low on the bottom.
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I say this one (amc49) is welcome. :) Not that my opine means anything. But there it is.
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Using solder and a torch you can easily solder some copper tube up to make replacement tubing, if using bulk hose it doesn't even have to be the right exact shape, just use some thinking and you can make the pipe in like 10 minutes. I've got at least one piece of copper replacement pipe on every car I drive, nowadays they want to plastic pipe every hard piece under the hood, the plastic blows out when it gets old. I can actually make a copper one for less than Ford charges for the plastic, ridiculous.
I've got a '74 Mustang II a/c radiator on my '80 Pinto wagon, not hard to get it in there at all but it hangs a bit low on the bottom.
And you can make them up a little more sanitary than the factory ones, I even thought about putting extensions on the heater core so you don't have to pop the heater box to change hoses.
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Well, rebuilt the carb and it runs but still drooled after shut off, took it apart twice before I noticed it, whoever rebuilt it before jacked up the tang on the float and wasn't closing the seat tight, did some tweaking and it's all good now, gonna have to mess with the jetting but gotta do the ignition first.
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What Pinto5.0 said is correct, dunno what I was thinking. My post on trapping air is correct but if you mount the core with vertical outlets he is 100% right. I'm an idiot.
'You want the flow going in the lower inlet & out the top to avoid air pockets in the core'
X2.
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What Pinto5.0 said is correct, dunno what I was thinking. My post on trapping air is correct but if you mount the core with vertical outlets he is 100% right. I'm an idiot.
'You want the flow going in the lower inlet & out the top to avoid air pockets in the core'
X2.
Don't sweat it we all have our moments, LOL...
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What Pinto5.0 said is correct, dunno what I was thinking. My post on trapping air is correct but if you mount the core with vertical outlets he is 100% right. I'm an idiot.
'You want the flow going in the lower inlet & out the top to avoid air pockets in the core'
X2.
My ex's Villager minivan core wont bleed trapped air unless a dealer does it. I installed one of those flush/fill caps in the top hose & I use a mustard bottle filled with coolant to fill the core while running it until I have heat. Works perfectly for $10
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Ok I'm missing something here, if coolant flows up from the bottom how can you fill the core from the top??..
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I put the filler in the upper hose. I run the engine up to temp then shut it off, unscrew the little fill cap, squirt coolant until the hose fills then cap it & run the engine some more. 3 to 4 repeats of that & the heater core is full. I wasn't too clear in that last post but eventually I get the air out. Dealers pressurize the water in to get the air out but I'm not paying for that.
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Ahhh ok gotcha, would have been a lot easier if they would have done like GM and run one of the hoses to the radiator.
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Problem with GM is waiting for the thermostat to open before you get any heat
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Hmmm, I never had that problem in my dually, less than 5 minutes and I had heat long before the t-stat opened.
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My dually's an 89. I don't get heat till the temp hits about 160
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Wow, both my 86's and my 73 got heat before that, strange.