PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: JoeBob on December 01, 2014, 07:12:58 PM
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This will be my first time doing anything serious on a car. I am trying to start a car that has not been started in 15 years. It is a 2.8 automatic. I flushed the radiator, changed the oil, pulled the plugs, and squirted mystery oil in the plug holes. Now I need to turn the engine over by hand to be sure it is not frozen. I do not know how to do this. I was told to turn the flywheel. I don't know how to find it, but I think it requires me to remove the transmission. (just guessing) There must be other ways. If anyone can help, please realize I know nothing. I even need help recognizing some of the basic systems. I do not know how to find the fuel pump and what it looks like. Of course I do not need that yet, but I will need to know soon.
Thank you
Bill
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Socket on the crank pulley nut.
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X2.
Simple and easy.
Russ
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If it's a manual trans, you can put it in gear and shove the car back and forth. Beware of old dry fuel systems.
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Turn the crankshaft clockwise from front of car.
Absolutely no way will car run right until carb is rebuilt, it will have old dried up cracked gaskets and accelerator pump diaphragm will most likely tear up in five minutes or less. Any working of the throttle has probably already done it. Fuel pump may be dead as well, same thing. Two things one ALWAYS does unless you like to explore 'not running' issues. Doing those I have started engines that sat for 25 years.
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If you still have the spark plugs out you can tighten the alternator/fan belt and use a 15/16 wrench on the alternator to turn the engine , mark the fan pulley so you know when you made a full turn of the engine, after remove the fuel pump line that goes to the tank, ( pump in on left side in the front) because of the next process , install hot battery in car and have someone in car to turn on the switch , engine warning light should be on , then use a jumper wire on the starter solenoid (small red wire with blue stripe) to battery positive , that should spin the engine freely with the plugs removed, use only 10 seconds per engagement as to not to over heat the starter, spin until engine light goes out, then one more time , now oil system is now primed up and new oil is on the bearings , next step, reason for removing fuel line is you do not know what junk in in the fuel tank and if the pump does work you don't want the crap to be pumped into the carb, remove tank and have it cleaned , most radiator shops will clean them , nest check the fuel pump to see if (your lucky ) it works, use 5/16 gas line from a very small container of gas , remove line from carb, short hose to small glass container , spin engine with jumper again , if fuel does not come out in 10 seconds pump is dead , (buy new pump) if pump does work ( but buy new one anyway ) it should flush out old gas in line, next is a 50/50 chance , install gas line back to carb , spin engine for 10 more seconds , look into middle of carb , if no gas is dripping out (or gushing out ) pump the throttle a few times and see if you see it squirt in the bores, if so , install plugs , try to start the engine with the key , if it does run , great, if not rebuild the carb, good luck , later Blaine
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Pumping a dry for years accelerator pump by working the gas pedal is a known great method to tear a hole in the hardened diaphragm instantly. One thing I always do on this sort of thing is to carefully pour some fuel into carb vent and let it sit for a couple days before trying the start, if carb gaskets recover as some do sitting in the fuel again you possibly save the carb rebuild. It works great for me. Won't fix small carb metering orifices that have dried up to clog hard though.
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Know what you mean on the accelerator pump diaphragm , but you can see if it leaks from the out side, if you do pure some gas in it just use a small amount , on this carb you have a power valve on the very bottom of the bowl , if it leaks it goes straight to inside the intake manifold , so just put a small amount at a time , no more than 6 oz , just tried it with my carb off my V6 wagon , any more it will start dripping at the ventures, as amc49 says let it sit for a few days , then give it a try , but go ahead and order a carb kit, it does have instructions on what to do and settings , you can buy a small pail of Berryman Chem-dip to clean the crap out the carb, take your time , this carb is very simple , take photos , it helps . but keep it all clean , a small piece of trash will make it run bad , good luck and post your progress ,
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Thank you everyone for your helpfulness
Bill
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Fuel pump is on driver side behind power steering pump,just follow fuel line from carb back.bolts hard to get to unless you remove power steering pump.
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The car started today, first try. I turned the key and it was running. I did not even hear it crank over, it started so fast. Thank you all.
Bill
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Thats unusual. I fought for days to get my old 79 going after it sat 20 years. Thats with a known good carb from one of my other pintos and an electric fuel pump. No idea why it took so long, it simply wouldnt start. My guess was stuck rings or something....
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I pulled the fuel tank today. Needs serious cleaning. The float for the sending unit is missing. This car is a 76 runabout. I found this float on ebay it looks like it is what I need. does anyone know?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371095345107?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thank you for your help
Bill