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Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: 1972 Wagon on January 24, 2017, 05:09:08 PM

Title: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 1972 Wagon on January 24, 2017, 05:09:08 PM
I have several burned out bulbs in my 72's instrument cluster and would like to replace all of them at one time. I checked the archives and read the advice that was given as well as read my Ford shop manuals (Why do all the other Ford cars have good photos and the Pinto has only a diagram?). I removed the two screws at the top of the cluster and gently pulled it forward. It only tilted forward about an inch and I couldn't get it to lift upward at all. There was no way to reach the speedometer cable. I tried becoming a pretzel and snaking my hand up behind the cluster to remove the speedometer cable. My fingers could just reach it. No matter how I tried to push on the speedometer quick release, I couldn't get it disconnected. I know that the cluster has never been removed and figured that it might be stiff plus I want to avoid breaking something. Does anyone have some tips that might help?
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: pinto_one on January 24, 2017, 05:45:30 PM
Removing for the first time can be a painful experience, every thing in the back around the speedometer cable is sharp , and even though I have removed many a instrument panel from a pinto I always somehow leave my DNA on the sharp areas , to ease the blood loss I remove the drivers seat , them the one screw or two the holds the fuse box , the end of the cable has a ring around it that has to be pushed in to release it from the speedo head , push in the cable and push this spot (see photo where I am pointing to) then pull off the cable , after take your time changing the bulbs , you could remove the wire plug but it could be brittle so take care there , bulb number is 194 , hope this helps you
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: pinto_one on January 24, 2017, 05:50:02 PM
Here is a better photo of the cable looking down ,
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 1972 Wagon on January 24, 2017, 07:10:03 PM
Thanks so much for the tips and especially the pictures. When I have photos to show me what the part looks like it is easier for me to figure out what I need to do. The shop manual just has one diagram and basically says to remove the two screws and the speedometer cable. I had thought about removing the seat but as I am short, I laid on my back with my head on the brake pedal and put my legs on the seat. Trust me, it wasn't very comfortable. I will try again tomorrow.
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: Wittsend on January 24, 2017, 07:49:49 PM
Find some kid and give him (or her) a dollar to get it out. You will both be happy and $1 is cheaper than a trip to the chiropractor.
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: pinto_one on January 24, 2017, 09:25:44 PM
Good idea Wittsend , but you forgot to add a box of Band-Aids of things to have on hand ;D
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 74 PintoWagon on January 25, 2017, 06:50:10 AM
Always wondered why MFG's never use a coupler just inside the firewall, would make thing so much easier and quicker..
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: dick1172762 on January 25, 2017, 11:03:34 AM
It would cost a penny more. You think cars are bad, work on an airplane for loss of blood. Everything made for a midget to do the work.
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 1972 Wagon on January 25, 2017, 03:32:05 PM
Thanks to Pinto_One's pictures, I got the instrument cluster out. No blood was shed in the process. I did my pretzel act again but this time put a blanket over the brake pedal. It was a bit more comfortable! Now that I knew where to press, the cable easily slid off. We replaced every bulb, even the ones that were working so we would not have to repeat the task any time soon. Now all lights work except one- the speedometer light. The old bulb was clearly burned out. That socket had a small section next to the bulb missing but the exterior ring and wires were intact. It holds in the slot but seems not as "tight" as the others. Is there a source to buy a new socket? The socket says "Ford 18" on the back. It wasn't working before so I am no worse off. On the bright side, no pun intended, the right turn signal indicator now works. Suggestions?
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: pinto_one on January 25, 2017, 06:49:21 PM
Yes I do work on airplanes , yes I do have my blood and DNA on most of them , yes you are right they never thought someone would be tiny enough to work on them , and Inalso keep a first aid kit in my tool box ,  and for 1972 Wagon if you need sockets I have some extra if you need them , send me a PM for a way to get them to you , and congratulation s for not leaving and skin and blood behind  ;D
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 1972 Wagon on January 25, 2017, 08:54:23 PM
Just came in from performing my pretzel routine yet again. I am now an expert at removing the speedometer cable. After checking my Pinto books, I realized that I had missed replacing the bulb in the pigtail socket. Since it is dark, I figured that it would also make it easier to check the cluster illumination lights and it did. The upper fuel gauge bulb needed to be twisted a bit more and it came on. I took the cracked socket and switched it with the left turn signal socket. Switching the sockets fully illuminated the fuel gauge section. The left turn signal light is currently working but it may quit if I hit a bump in the road as it is a bit loose. I have taken two Advil for a stiff neck but at least the Pinto has all its cluster lights working!
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 74 PintoWagon on January 25, 2017, 09:14:45 PM
Glad to hear you got it fixed..
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: chriss on January 28, 2017, 03:20:13 PM
i'd just thought I would add my 2 cents worth.. Removing the cluster in my '71 was a major pain.. they make it look so easy in the Pinto do-it yourself book.. but the first time doing it is a bit of a challenge. I removed the crash pad on mine and sent it out to just dashes. the Pinto shop manual is pretty worthless on the location of the nuts that hold the pad to the dash.  The main connector going to cluster was stubburn to get it out. and the speedo cable.. someone said have a kid do it.. that does work.  My 12 year old nephew got it out for me.
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 1972 Wagon on January 28, 2017, 06:40:02 PM
At the Moultrie Car Swap many years ago, I found a 5 volume set of original 1973 Ford Shop Manuals for $20. I figured that many of the repairs and illustrations would cross over to my 1972 and for $20 I couldn't go wrong. The problem that I have found, besides being a non-mechanical person (The engine volume will never wear out!), is that the books have great pictures for the other 1973 Fords but not for the Pinto. It is like the Pinto was the stepchild in the group. I have a Chilton's Pinto book and an Auto Press Pinto book which often have simpler-to-understand explanations (At least for me!). Pinto_One shared the best pictures and that helped me get the speedometer cable off. Otherwise I'd still be under the dash shaped like a pretzel!
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: LongTimeFordMan on February 01, 2017, 09:31:15 PM
I have a 73 pinto and figured out some tips..  If you kneel on the ground outside of the driver door, you can reach up on the left side of the steering column and over the column and get to the speedo cable pretty easily to both remove and reinstall it..do yourself a favor annd next time you have the cluster out , disassemble the plastic covers and line the inside with aluminum foil and change to led llights..
amazon 20 for 9.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GSAM1ZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 makes a world of difference..  also I fought with the original flexible printed circuit for several months on and off then replaced it with point to point wiring and a 9 pin connector to connect to the cluster to the main harness.. I also changed the mechanical ivr with a solid state adjustable voltage regulator..  LM317  (about .50 to 3.00) depending where you buy it.. amazon... 10 for 2.69 plus shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AUECKR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



with a 10k pot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JR6HZLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

amazon 11 for 5.99

used to adjust the voltage.. you can look up a simple circuit if you search fo LM317.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjJgZiYu_DRAhXL64MKHdybBUkQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.learningaboutelectronics.com%2FArticles%2FLM317-voltage-regulator&psig=AFQjCNF6p7SRd0meaJCb5h6O00WhPkvIpQ&ust=1486092241062649

I attached lead wires for the regulator (three) to the pot and let it hang below the cluster with the cluster installed so I could calibrate the gauges.. for my gauges, i found that the voltage needs to be adjusted to 5.2 v for the gauge to read just past full, 1/2 with 6 gal in the tank and 1/4 with 4 gal in the tank. will make some photos but dont seem to be able to upload them.  stay tuned for photos.. i will also check the main harness color codes and pass along the color codes and connections to the gauges..
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: LongTimeFordMan on February 01, 2017, 09:44:58 PM
calibrate your gas gauge... two methods.. hard way.. drain the tank and add 1 gallon at a time and note the gauge, adjust as necessary.  easy way.. check the voltage between ground and output of lm317 at the fuel gauge and turn the shaft of the pot to adjust the voltage to 5.2 volts as a start..

fill the tank and turn the shaft of the pot to adjust the 10k pot to make the gauge read about 1/16" past full.. drive till gauge reads 1/2,  fill tank and note the amount of fuel it takes.. tank should hold 12 gallons.. when gauge reads 1/2 it should take 6 gallons to fill tank.  if it takes more or less, subtract the amount needed to fill the tank from 12 and adjust the pot to make the gauge read correctly. drive till the gauge again reads 1/2 and fill the tank,  it should now take 6 gallons.. when you get the gauge to read correctly at 1/2 tank, drive till gauge reads 1/4, fill tank, it should take 7-8 gallons.. now you know that at 1/4 you have 4 gallons left.. if you are  adventurous, when tank gets to 1/4, drain it to see where "empty" reads on gauge.. add gas 1 gallon at a time to see where gauge reads..at each increment.

have fun..
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 65ShelbyClone on February 04, 2017, 11:33:21 AM
Is there a source to buy a new socket? The socket says "Ford 18" on the back.

As far as I can tell, the sockets are a standard "twist lock" type. I found scads of new ones online.

Always wondered why MFG's never use a coupler just inside the firewall, would make thing so much easier and quicker.

My guess is that the speedometer cable is installed on the cluster first and then run through the firewall. It's faster for assembly line steps, but a PITA for repair. That is ideal for Ford; it costs less to manufacture the car upfront and makes for more billable repair hours at the stealership.
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: pinto_one on February 04, 2017, 11:59:45 AM
Hey I just found them , and also got you a voltage regulator for the fuel gauge , will try to make it to the post office before they close to mail them to you today , if not they are going out monday , the hand full of bulb sockets should help out with the broken ones , enjoy , later Blaine
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: LongTimeFordMan on February 04, 2017, 11:39:27 PM
Ive done a lot of mods on my cluster including replacing the bulbs with led lamps, replacing the regulator with a solid state adjustable one and  and rewiring the entire cluster to replace the printed circuit board..  disconnecting the speedo cable takes about 10 seconds, ive done it prolly 20 times to do the mods..to disconnect the cable,  KNEEL OUTSIDE  the driver door fac8ng the cront of the car, with your left hand reach up behind the dash on the left side of the steering column, just to the right of the vent cable, then over the steering column.  Find the speedo cable.. follow it up to the speedo, there is a retaining clip holding the cable into the speedo,  on top of the retainer is a square tab, press down on the tab and the cable slips right off.. to replace the cable... kneel  outside the driver door,  reach up and over the steering column, find the cable, slide the retainer clip back along the cable a few inches,  insert the cable into the speedo, and make sure it is completely seated into the speedo. You might need to apply pressure to the cluster to insure the cable is inserted all the way into the speedo,  and or to remove and reinsert it a few times until the cable is aligned with the socket in the speedo. slip the retainer up onto the end of the cable till it latches, you are finished...
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: pinto_one on February 05, 2017, 05:29:08 PM
She already figured out how to remove the panel , but as for using leds I tried that when they first came out , took them out because you can not dim them , too bright for dark roads at night and screws up your night vision,
Title: Re: Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice
Post by: 1972 Wagon on February 05, 2017, 08:22:48 PM
Sorry for the delay in responding to the various suggestions but we were at the Moultrie, Georgia, Swap Meet. My goal is to keep the car as close to original as possible. Plus, we have very limited mechanical abilities! Thanks pinto_one for the instrument cluster parts. The cracked socket is still functioning but one big bump in the road would probably knock it out. I hope that the "new" voltage regulator will bring the gas gauge back to life.