PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: pintob on July 24, 2022, 05:59:33 PM
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how can I lower the rear of my 74 it apparently won't take standard lowering blocks.
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Havent logged in here in a while so sorry for the late response. Back in the day, Racer walsh made an aluminum lowering block that had the oval to match the spring perch oval. If you can find a set that would be the easiest thing to use. I have read some people using normal lowering blocks with the rubber isolator but I am not sure how safe that would be. Last option is to weld "normal" spring perches on and be done with it.
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TIGGER is right, Racer Walsh still lists lowering blocks for your Pinto.
https://racerwalsh.com/product-category/suspension/pinto-74-80/rear-lowering-kit-pinto-74-80/ (https://racerwalsh.com/product-category/suspension/pinto-74-80/rear-lowering-kit-pinto-74-80/)
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And if $90 plus shipping seems like a lot you could probably take a standard block and a section of bar. Cut the total bar length to the largest section of the oval, file the corners round and then bolt the piece to the bar using two tapered flat head hex bolts. The Walsh block machines the oval into the block where as someone without a mill can fabricate and add the oval with a saw, file, drill and tap.
Given the lack of precision needed one could probably make a jig, take a wood router with an (old) straight plunge bit and do what Walsh does depending on the caliber of the aluminum. Everything is time (and tools) vs money. I have more of the former than the latter. Maybe for others it is the other way around.
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Good to know they are available still if needed.
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The harder part is finding longer 2.375" u-bolts. I had to have some made to order.
RW says the stock bolts can be used, but that may be only if the rubber isolators are removed. I have two sets of stock bolts from '72 and '77 and there's perhaps 1/2" of extra thread with all the stock parts assembled.
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The first time I lowered a Pinto using the racer walsh blocks was on my dad's 79 wagon. I had u-bolts made. They were not cheap. Shortly after, I was at my local trailer parts supply store ordering some parts for my tent trailer. While waiting for the sales dude to be available I browsed thru some of the isles. There was an isle that had an abundance of U-bolts that were a fraction of what I paid for the ones I had made. They had all kinds of lengths, bolt diameters, spacings etc. The next few cars I lowered, the u-bolts came from there.
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Heres a link to new rubber spring insulator pads for both early and late model pinto and mii rear springs..
https://www.generalspringkc.com/ford-granada-mercury-monarch-mustang-ii-leaf-spring-axle-insulator-pad/
The mii and late model pintos use the oval hole mounts, the early models use round.
For 8" conversion to early pintos you need oval hole top and round hole bottoms.
If you call them and explain what you are doing they can provide part numbers you need to order
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I am a know nothing I'll admit. Please tell me the purpose of lowering the back. I had heck of a time finding new springs to return my car to proper height.Bill
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I think most owners lower their cars for appearance reasons. Also, the car will handle a little better when lowered front and rear. Just my opinion.
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You are right. My 72 handed better and it was lower.
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What about tire clearance..
Doest lowering reduce clearance with larger wheels
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From my own experience, just lowering the car with stock wheels and tires won't cause a clearance issue.
Without considering, (understanding) backspacing, I bought a set of 195/55-15 BFG Sport Comp 2 tires (approximately the same diameter as the stock 13" tires) and four 10-hole fox body Mustang wheels which have 5" backspacing. When the wheels and tires were installed and the car, a '75 Runabout, was lowered, the upper a-frames dug into the front wheels and locked the car down solid. The back tires cleared the inboard wheel well structure by approximately a half inch. There was a lot of outer tire clearance front and rear.
I ended up having to trim the upper A-frames fore and aft of the ball joints and add a small wheel spacer (1/4" or 5/16", I can't remember now) to clear the 10-hole fox body wheels of the upper A-frames.
Knowing what I now know, I'd definitely double check backspacing if I planned to go with wider wheels and tires.
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Both my Pinto's are lowered front and back. My dads wagon has OEM slots and there are no rubbing or clearance issues. My 73 is lower than the wagon and it has 15" centerlines that fill the wheel wells up nicely. The only thing that rubs is the driveshaft on the ebrake cable. It has what I believe is a 4" diameter aluminum DS in it. I think a stock ds would not rub. Its kind of annoying to be honest. The 73 is still a project that I hope to get to some day.
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Old pic of the wagon but it has not changed much since it was taken.