9 Guests, 1 User
AV80R

Author Topic: lower efi intake with carb questions  (Read 5657 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline waldo786

  • Pinto Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 236
  • FeedBack: +0/-0
  • Gender: Male

  • Total Badges: 5
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
lower efi intake with carb questions
« on: November 30, 2014, 04:41:18 PM »
I know some people are using this setup on their cars with the ACE adapter that is available.  My question is do you have to do any modifications to this manifold (someone mentioned porting), or can you simply bolt on the manifold to the head, bolt the adapter and carb to the manifold and be ready to go?  If anyone is running this, how do you like this setup compared to a stock setup?  I'm trying to decide whether I'm going to switch to this or just put an autolite 2100 on my stock intake.

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2014, 04:42:24 AM »
Most of the adapters out there are 1 inch tall, the lower works much better with 2 inch tall but most likely hood to air cleaner issues there.

I've got a 2 inch and the lower and it looks like it would work with no port work at all and the plenum is MUCH better shape and shared area. The porting becomes necessary with the lower restriction of air having to move too far sideways with no down drop and throttle butterflies are more in the way, why the porting lowers the entrance to runners a bit. Many people lower the 'x' in the middle to allow for the mentioned problem. That though creates issue with the outboard cylinders then, mixture hits a flat when the down-to-sideways curve at top into the 1 and 4 is partly/mostly removed doing that porting. You need that radius there and the extra plenum to allow for better part throttle power. The 'x' in the center is narrowed to help make up for the butterflies being too low because of the 1 inch adapter, 2 inch doesn't need it, much cleaner drop there like a well done tunnel ram, basically, five minutes of porting to radius the holes there all that's needed or even nothing, the taller adapter allows that. The splay outward to runners is much improved with taller adapter and the distribution will be as well too. The hood issue though is more important to many, hard to get a air cleaner that clears with that last inch.

Think how many V8s pick up a solid 10-15 hp. when simply throwing on a 1 inch spacer between carb and manifold, it does the same thing......... ....more room to make the turn at entry to the runner and motors generally like that a lot. Carb butterflies extending down into active switching/intermixing areas of the plenum often rob power, get them up just a bit higher and free power for the taking almost.

Offline 74 PintoWagon

  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 3105
  • FeedBack: +540/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 5
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2014, 07:06:07 AM »
Haven't got the carb yet but I think 1" would be max for clearance, gotta have a decent air cleaner on it. But I'll see when I find a carb, I plan on going as high as I can.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline dick1172762

  • Vintage Pinto Racer
  • PCCA Management Board
  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 2623
  • FeedBack: +362/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm a llama!

  • Total Badges: 7
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts Tenth year Anniversary Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2014, 12:08:45 PM »
One thing nobody has talked about is to use this intake (EFI) you must drill and tap a new hole in the head because of the mounting hole being moved on the EFI intake. Just one hole but it must be done before the intake will work.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline 74 PintoWagon

  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 3105
  • FeedBack: +540/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 5
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2014, 01:57:57 PM »
Thanks Dick didn't know that, learn something new everyday..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2014, 02:22:42 AM »
You got me there too, I thought I had checked that a good while back but I obviously didn't............. ............ho pe there's material there to do it.  The actual hole making is no trouble unless head already on a car........... ............

Offline dick1172762

  • Vintage Pinto Racer
  • PCCA Management Board
  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 2623
  • FeedBack: +362/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm a llama!

  • Total Badges: 7
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts Tenth year Anniversary Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2014, 09:02:42 AM »
Hole was moved inward because of the injector port on just that one cylinder. All the other holes are ok as is. There is lots of room on the head to drill / tap the new hole. Adding material  to the intake by welding would work too, but would be a lot of work. I think the new hole could be done after the motor was complete by using a drill bushing in the odd hole on the EFI intake with the intake bolted on to the engine. Doesn't need to be 100% perfect, just close and dead center of the odd hole in the intake. Once you have the hole started, the intake could be removed and a drill fixture that prevents the remainder of the drilling from going in crooked. No harder than drilling out a broke off exhaust bolt.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline Wittsend

  • Pinto Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2256
  • FeedBack: +241/-0

  • Total Badges: 8
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Mobile User Topic Starter Poll Voter 1000 Posts Linux User Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2014, 11:47:42 AM »
Interesting point on a N/A car.  I just looked at the reverse side on my EFI manifold and it seems that the surface the bolt would contact is irregular.  I'd assume if you plugged the injector opening with weld and then machined the surface it would work.

I guess it just comes down to the tools you have at your disposal and where you want to put the effort.  Most people have a drill and even a wrench can turn a tap. Not everyone has the ability to weld aluminum and machine the surface.

 That said, I'd probably fill the injector opening with a tight fitting aluminum rod and then grind the surface with a die grinder until it was "good enough" to tighten the bolt. Maybe use a plastic washer and something like Devcon to get a flatter surface, then remove the plastic washer once the Devcon set and use a thick metal washer to displace the tightening load.

Anyone have a fourth option? Maybe a huge "C" clamp around the back of the head?  LOL

Offline 76hotrodpinto

  • Pinto Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 692
  • FeedBack: +13/-0
  • Gender: Male

  • Total Badges: 3
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Windows User
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2014, 12:11:42 PM »
Wedge a stick between the fender and manifold... or duck tape.

 It seems like there really aren't many manifolds that just perform well with out some kind of alteration. I like to carve on metal, so that's fine. Just kinda weird that there seems to be something different to do on each manifold choice. Is there a manifold that just addressed all the issues and engineered it work correctly out of the box?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2014, 07:03:42 PM »
True all that but dressing down the aluminum will put new hole pretty close to stressed material if a pipe plug used there, tightening down manifold bolt on an unlucky day may crack the new hole. Maybe seal plug real well and not use normal tightness to lower that?  I'm leaning more toward drill/tap the head, easy enough to throw the head up on drillpress after marking the hole.

Yes, it's d-mn comical how everything done on these motors requires jumping through funny little hoops to get things done. Seems to me the design teams had some funny thoughts as they were designing this motor. The four completely different intake ports come to mind instantly.  Many have said the engine was designed by a committee of people who didn't talk much. The OEM intake is certainly a nightmare.

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2014, 08:04:59 AM »
No way would I consider a simple all epoxy plug as reliable there. The shape of hole is smooth enough heat and exposure to fuel will very possibly loosen that to come loose making at the least a vacuum leak. Seen it plenty of times. Thread for pipe plug and very lightly torque with epoxy, that would be much better.  We glued up porting holes in plenty of heads back in the day and you get an appreciation for what can work or fail pretty easy.  The vast majority of epoxy fixes out there are fails that just haven't happened yet. Most people do not work the issue out well enough trusting blindly in the epoxy to 'glue up everything'. They don't rough up the surface good nor do they remove all dirt and oil properly for more bite.

Light torque on bolt there can burn you, that flat can leak with lower torque, the gasket material used there contributes to it if still the same type they used to use. I've seen OEM 2.3s with sucked out  gaskets at the thinner part when the torque does not sink the intake into the gasket, it is often too hard and not pliable enough. The gasket can s-ck in on the bottom where you can't see it until intake is off.

No way do you have 7/16" there, it appears so on the backside flat but the injector hole is at a heavy angle, on top side the bolt hole will impinge on the injector hole chamfer, in short they touch. Any cracking will be on the outside.

Offline dick1172762

  • Vintage Pinto Racer
  • PCCA Management Board
  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 2623
  • FeedBack: +362/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm a llama!

  • Total Badges: 7
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts Tenth year Anniversary Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2014, 10:46:01 AM »
Went out to the shop and looked again. The hole in question is .368 in diameter and the bolt is .187 in diameter, so I ran some sandpaper thru the hole and put a 3/16"id X  3/8"od drill bushing in the hole. Nice fit and this allowed the new hole to be on center with the hole in the intake. Then I ran a 3/16" drill into the bushing  just far enough to make a center on the head. Removed the intake and there on the head was the drill center to show me where to drill the new hole. Next step is to press a drill bushing into a block of aluminum to allow me to drill the new hole straight and true. All of this was done with a 3/8" drill and the motor in the car. No big deal. So easy a Vega owner could do it.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline Wittsend

  • Pinto Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2256
  • FeedBack: +241/-0

  • Total Badges: 8
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Mobile User Topic Starter Poll Voter 1000 Posts Linux User Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2014, 11:19:16 AM »
Drilling the hole in the head is obviously the best fix.  I'd still like to see the tightening side of the "Filled & Drilled" intake. Getting the surface flat for the bolt head seems like the most difficult part.  My perspective is only the EFI intake - on my car.

If JB weld is used as a hole plug I'd chamfer the top/bottom of the hole and put a piece of wire (like Re-bar) slightly shorter than the fill area.  All I can say is I melted the nylon seal on my fuel sender when I opted to run EFI return line through a hole I drilled. The soldering process of the tube did the melting.  I just covered it with a healthy dose of J.B. weld and 3 years later with ethanol blended fuel I have no leaks. But, yea, I can see the concerns about broken chunks of filler getting sucked into the engine.   Hence the chamfer and the "Re-bar" like wire.

Offline 74 PintoWagon

  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 3105
  • FeedBack: +540/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 5
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2014, 11:21:53 AM »
So easy a Vega owner could do it.
A Vega owner, that's funny, LOL...
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

  • Pinto Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 692
  • FeedBack: +13/-0
  • Gender: Male

  • Total Badges: 3
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Windows User
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2014, 12:27:27 PM »
So thats on the number one runner? Are people running 4v carbs only on these? Or will a 4412 flow right on there too?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline dick1172762

  • Vintage Pinto Racer
  • PCCA Management Board
  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 2623
  • FeedBack: +362/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm a llama!

  • Total Badges: 7
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts Tenth year Anniversary Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2014, 12:38:52 PM »
 Postal pony has a 4 barrel carb on his with a homemade adapter.  All the store bought adapters are for a 2 barrel carb.  Number one runner.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline dick1172762

  • Vintage Pinto Racer
  • PCCA Management Board
  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 2623
  • FeedBack: +362/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm a llama!

  • Total Badges: 7
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts Tenth year Anniversary Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #16 on: December 04, 2014, 12:47:51 PM »
I used pipe plugs in my EFI intake. But first you have to drill the injector holes out to 1/2" so the holes can be taped 3/8 Pipe.  Easy except the injector holes are on a compound angle.  Need a drill press or mill to do it correctly.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline dick1172762

  • Vintage Pinto Racer
  • PCCA Management Board
  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 2623
  • FeedBack: +362/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm a llama!

  • Total Badges: 7
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts Tenth year Anniversary Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #17 on: December 04, 2014, 12:56:33 PM »
By the way, I have a nice clean EFI intake with the injector hole plug'd with aluminum pipe plugs and NO porting for sale if anybody is interested . $75 shipped in the US of A.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

  • Pinto Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 692
  • FeedBack: +13/-0
  • Gender: Male

  • Total Badges: 3
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Windows User
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2014, 01:01:42 PM »
I'm thinking if I go this route, I'll bolt it up to some 1" plate and fill the injector ports with a welder, then pretty it up. I think I even have some 1" aluminum to cut the adapter out of. I'm not unhappy with my current setup, but the 2,3 runners are just so much shorter than 1,4. And 2,3 just straight shoot into the head, while 1,4 are longer and have more angles.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline kerryann

  • Pinto Member
  • **
  • Posts: 72
  • FeedBack: +0/-0
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 2
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Windows User
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2014, 03:52:15 PM »
i just finished installing my efi intake on our 1980 with the ACE adapter.  i had been having mid range flat spot problems before with the 7448 holley on the stock intake and this didn't cure it.  the car does have good throttle response on the main circuit though.  I didn't notice the bolt that doesn't go in at the top at the front until after i had gotten the intake on with gasket and some silicone.  So I ended up leaving that top front most bolt out.  the stock intake had lost that bolt and the one next to it and the factory gasket still didn't break or get swallowed.  Reason I say this is because it looks to me like the lack of a bolt there with the thickness of the aluminum flange of the intake won't make much of a difference.  The bolt next to it and the bolt below it are just about directly across from one another if you drew an imaginary line across the intake port.  This seems like it would be sufficient, like a cross bolt type situation.  Maybe I'll find I'm wrong and I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to get a bushing and drill a hole in the head and tap with the intake in place, might just have to remove the alternator.  If I end up having to go this route is there any danger of hitting water/coolant?  How deep of a hole is correct?  My head isn't coming off so if i do need to add a bolt hole it has to be done with the motor in car.

Offline Wittsend

  • Pinto Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2256
  • FeedBack: +241/-0

  • Total Badges: 8
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Mobile User Topic Starter Poll Voter 1000 Posts Linux User Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #20 on: December 04, 2014, 08:13:51 PM »
Don't know if you will hit a water jacket or not, but at least you will know when to stop drilling.  ;)   And, if you do, just put sealant on the bolt. I'd assume the other intake bolt length would be an indicator of depth.

Chevy (SBC) has had at least three different intake bolt configurations .  When they went to the vertical center bolts a lot of people just slotted the center holes on older manifolds and let the bolts "clamp where they may."  So, there is ideal and there is "good enough."

Offline kerryann

  • Pinto Member
  • **
  • Posts: 72
  • FeedBack: +0/-0
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 2
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Windows User
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2014, 08:58:29 PM »
yea i've had to deal with old 2bbl intakes slotted to fit on the centerbolt chevy heads. the joys of stock class racing.  I'm going to take the chance with the bolt out for now.  i'll do the ether test after i put some miles and heat cycles on the gasket.  The gasket was cheap enough anyway.  Right now I still have to get my carb to work right for my own peace of mind.  If anyone gets this far and goes with a new bolt hole in the head or drilled/milled hole in the intake i'd like to hear how you made out.

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2014, 09:15:35 PM »
Got pipe plugs in mine as well but 1/4" instead, the holes just clean up with a dusting using the 7/16" drill bit that is used to for 1/4" pipe. Can be done easily with part sitting in your hands and how I did mine.

Still waiting for someone to realize what I was talking about with the bolt hole hitting the injector hole edge, all that measuring and pics and blather there did not address that issue at all.  Drill the hole and then torque the bolt with a pipe plug already tight in the hole, you may quickly see what I'm talking about......... .the flange can easily crack at the point of least resistance regardless of how thick it is elsewhere. Just because someone has not seen that means nothing, I have and in plenty of different situations. Your stuff-do what you will.

I'll be drilling the head myself, as Dick points out not that hard at all even on car. The more reliable method.

The manifold is stiff enough to not leak for a while missing a bolt but fuel slowly seeps into the gasket to let it fall apart if not well pinched to slow that down by years. The pinch stops much of the soaking.



Offline dick1172762

  • Vintage Pinto Racer
  • PCCA Management Board
  • Pinto Sr. Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 2623
  • FeedBack: +362/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm a llama!

  • Total Badges: 7
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Signature Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts Tenth year Anniversary Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2014, 10:43:23 PM »
One other thing I did was to put threaded studs in all the intake mounting holes. They were easy to find on e-bay. This way being in the water jacket wouldn't hurt. I use threaded studs everywhere  I can on engines I build.  ACE that builds the EFI adapter has them in stock.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline kerryann

  • Pinto Member
  • **
  • Posts: 72
  • FeedBack: +0/-0
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 2
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Windows User
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2014, 11:00:00 PM »
amc49, i did the same, 7/16" drill, barely took any material off then i tapped for 1/4" pipe plugs, clamped the intake in the vice and just aligned the tap as best i could with the holes.  all worked out fine.  I used brass plugs with a square head just because i had 4 of them matching.  had just enough reach to get them tight with the wrench.  socket head plugs would be better but i didn't have any.

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #25 on: December 04, 2014, 11:57:58 PM »
The 1/4" plugs set in even with that first recess step to look nice and neat and the ends line up perfectly with the boss inside port to make easier porting up to them and even into them if one chooses to clean those injector bumps up.

Offline waldo786

  • Pinto Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 236
  • FeedBack: +0/-0
  • Gender: Male

  • Total Badges: 5
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #26 on: December 06, 2014, 09:57:17 PM »
Lots of good info here.  After reading some more posts on here, and taking into consideration Dick mentioning the stock intakes are used in stock class racing and can get up to 145 mph, and the fact I just want a nice cruiser, I'm going to stick with a stock intake.  I did purchase the 2bbl intake ACE adapter for the stock intake.  Seems like it should help some, and work fine for what I want the car to do.  I haven't gotten the adapter yet, but it looks like it will replace the stock spacer with about the same height.  Unfortunately, any higher and I do think there would be clearance issues.  I also a rebuilt 2150 carb to put on there too.  Looks like I'll be removing the egr as the new space has no provision for it.  If I absolutely had too, I imagine I could drill holes in the ACE adapter to accept the EGR.  I'd also have to drill and tap the ranger header that also does not have an EGR hookup.  Another odd question perhaps.  Since I won't need the O2 sensor, could I take it out and some how hook up a line from the smog pump to that location?  I currently reside in DE, and the DMV rules say that the sniffer test they do is at idle, when the EGR isn't even operating.  I know sometimes my questions may seem odd, but I'l many times think of something and just wonder if its possible, if it works, or if someone has done it.  Thanks again.

Offline Wittsend

  • Pinto Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2256
  • FeedBack: +241/-0

  • Total Badges: 8
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Mobile User Topic Starter Poll Voter 1000 Posts Linux User Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #27 on: December 06, 2014, 10:22:46 PM »
After reading some more posts on here ..., I'm going to stick with a stock intake.

Hey, no problem, after all wasn't the "Side Show" an attraction all by itself?  ;D

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #28 on: December 06, 2014, 10:57:21 PM »
Does DMV test at anything ABOVE idle like putting car on treadmill to simulate up to 30 mph? What year is car, you can add air injection like you mentioned but before cat that added air will mess up the NOx portion (forward section) of a 3 way cat but not a single bed one for HC only. Many cars went to TWCs around '79-'80, before that they were HC only. I had a '79 with no cat and no smog pump and added a single bed cat and smog air into pipe about 12 inches before the cat and car actually ran cleaner on emissions than my new MPFI car did. Inspector was going to fail the car because it did not have all OEM equipment but when he saw how clean it ran he was flabbergasted. I had adjusted the carb to slide right under that test.

If they don't strictly require the smog pump it is easier on a four cylinder to plump for passive pulse air injection, no smog pump or extra belt to worry about and the fours air inject by exhaust pulsing just fine.

EGR does not work at idle but they can commonly test for NOx there anyway, you can slow the timing down a bit to help the numbers out. I used to drop timing back to say TDC or even retard a couple degrees, engine won't run as well but only for the inspection and then bring it right back up.

The O2 bung is tapped for 18 mm. spark plug, not the easiest fitting to find, best option is cutting off end of a non-fouler insert to have a fitting that can screw right in.

Offline Wittsend

  • Pinto Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2256
  • FeedBack: +241/-0

  • Total Badges: 8
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Mobile User Topic Starter Poll Voter 1000 Posts Linux User Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Re: lower efi intake with carb questions
« Reply #29 on: December 07, 2014, 11:47:56 AM »
He is listed as being in Delaware. Not sure what the laws are there.

 In Calif. '75 and older cars don't need the biannual smog test!!!  For the unfortunate it is a two speed (15 MPH & 25 MPH) dyno test in most areas. Certain areas of Calif. only do stationary and others only on change of ownership rather than biannual. Obviously the closer you are to a large population the tougher it gets.  Ignition time has to be accurate within 2 degrees of factory. All original factory smog needs to be present. Nothing cobbled. The saying goes, "As goes California, so goes the nation." So, there is a likelihood they have similar laws.

 For OBD II cars they can still fail even though they pass a visual and emission test. The computer "monitors" need to all have cycled and reported back. I've heard on some German cars that can take upwards of 800-900 miles!  You can fail a smog test just because you replaced your battery! BTW, I hear next year 2000 (ish) and up cars will only plug in the OBD II port. No more dyno.  Not sure if that is good or bad.