PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: pintoguy76 on December 23, 2013, 07:50:29 PM
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I'm not getting much if any air from the vents in my car. Car is heat only, no AC. The flapper is moving with the control levers, and you can hear the blower motor come on with the switch. I assume its plugged up? How do I clean it out?
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Are you sure the flapper is opening up all the way?, might check the cable clamp it may have come loose, I doubt it would be plugged but if it is then the whole unit needs to come out and cleaned, that is quite some fun,lol..
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/General%20Stuff/Scan.jpg)
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Check for leaves inside the cowl, as the cowl provides the air to the heater. I've seen the cowl so full of trash, that the heater would not work. Only way to get trash out is to drop the heater. LOL
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And it's really a simple unit with few parts.. ;D ;D
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/HeaterBox.jpg?t=1373487523)
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I had the same issue with mine. The rectangular joint going into the defroster duct had shrunk/deformed letting the air leak out before windshield. I took some 3/4" square foam and pushed it into the joint once assembled. Works like day one now. :)
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Mine's not tight either, still works ok but probably wouldn't hurt to pack some foam around it.
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Depends on what vents you speak of not working. You have panel, defrost and floor, any one can take air from where you want. TWO flapper doors involved in there too. Look at the disassembled unit pic given. The round section to the left that looks like top and bottom are cut off the round has a flapper in it that controls floor and defrost and their overlap, turned off it forces all air through panel vents. The vertical rusty shaft and door shown at the split apart just to right of fan is the outside intake flapper I'm thinking. If the heater is on and that flapper is not closed then air is not forced through heater at all. Flapper must be switched to blow air through the core for heater to blow hot. That condition if wrong will result in air blowing but not cold. Then left half round flapper must be in correct place to put output hot or cold where you want it out of the three locations. And of course the outside intake must be clean of trash.
Like they say, the blower even if new motor will not blow like a factory one will, and any air leaking at duct connections needs fixing with foam to seal them up, doesn't take much leaking to lose what little you have with a worn blower motor.
Buy a new one and like you threw money away, I've long said there is room in there for someone really hot to make a business model work. Putting out new blowers that put out a great quantity of air at reasonable cost could make someone a millionaire overnite. All the companies that make replacement motors put out utter crap, new they barely touch medium of the dead motor even on high. It's impossible for you to find blowers that work like the ones in new cars and no reason for that other than ultra cheap bastard company that would rather rip you off. I personally would kill for a good blower; it is the biggest factor in crap a/c performance in summer once you have everything else working fine but you can't fix that part of it since no one makes a really good motor.
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Bought a 70s F-100 & no air/heat.
Pulled the heater & found out it was a farm truck.
Core was full of dirt & grain.
Put a new core in & a good cleaning of the rest & it worked like new.
You can still get new cores.....
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Got a new heater core for mine for $35.
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The newer aluminum ones zoop. Sometimes you can get a choice and if so always pick the copper/brass one. It can be repaired where the aluminum barely can and in most cases cannot be. The copper one is more efficient as well.
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Didn't know they made aluminum cores, I'd never use one of them not just for the repair factor but aluminum dissipates heat too much so the air won't be as warm..
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It was getting when I left the part store so that more cores were being done in aluminum than copper. Aluminum cheaper (more profit) and lighter than copper and why the push to it in late models. Now since most are made of that the core makers are converting lots of old school designs to aluminum as well. The aluminum coan easily be furnace brazed as an assembly in factory but harder to fix in the field. You cannot locally reheat in small spots and solder it back shut to not leak like copper, the whole unit has to heat up at once.