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Author Topic: header  (Read 5828 times)

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Offline mrpinto73

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header
« on: January 02, 2014, 06:39:41 PM »
does anybody know how hard is it too put a header on a 2.0 pinto under chassis they say you have too modify the motor mount any help
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Offline 71HANTO

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Re: header
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2014, 07:16:25 PM »
There are different 2.0L headers out there. Some for dune buggies, some for circle track guys with full cage frame cars. Below are headers for a Pinto that require no mods to fit. They clear the engine mounts. They are getting rare to find these days but out there.
 
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Offline mrpinto73

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Re: header
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2014, 09:01:12 PM »
where did you find yours and is that one for sale

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Offline Srt

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Re: header
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2014, 03:31:09 AM »
what brand is that charles? looks like a nice one. vintage?
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Offline dick1172762

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Re: header
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2014, 08:36:41 AM »
I raced a 2.000 L Pinto for 20 years, and the ONLY header that didn't crack was the two piece Headman. I tried them all, and they all cracked. Some in as little as two races. 2.300 L never does that, not even one time. I tried solid motor mounts once, the bell housing and the tranie tail housing cracked in one race. The 2.000 L makes some weird vibration. Unless your going racing, I would leave the cast iron manifold on it. Its the easy way and makes little or no difference on the street. 
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Offline Pintosopher

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Re: header
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2014, 10:45:04 AM »
There are different 2.0L headers out there. Some for dune buggies, some for circle track guys with full cage frame cars. Below are headers for a Pinto that require no mods to fit. They clear the engine mounts. They are getting rare to find these days but out there.
 
71HANTO
 



This is identical to mine and it is a Hooker Super Comp header.  Eventually mine did Crack at the flange on #4 cyinder, The rest stayed intact as the seams had all been Heavily brazed , including the Collector.  Mine had to have a new bend at the flange on #4 for the first 3 inches off the flange. The new section is nicely TIG welded in by a fellow employee at our former employer , COMPTECH machine.  This guy built headers for Honda Indy cars and GTP NSX Acura .  His work is exquisite!

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Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: header
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2014, 11:41:29 AM »
Maybe need to split the flanges between cylinders, that might stop them from breaking??..
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Offline dick1172762

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Re: header
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2014, 11:56:32 AM »
Maybe need to split the flanges between cylinders, that might stop them from breaking??..
    That's the way the 2.3L Ranger header is made. Sure wouldn't hurt to do that. Vibration starts at the head, and works it way down to the collector. A strap at the collector over to the tranie might help, or make it worse. Only one way to tell.
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Offline 1oldtimer

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Re: header
« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2014, 03:50:20 PM »
Here's what I have, but it's not going to fit so it might be for sale.
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Offline dick1172762

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Re: header
« Reply #9 on: January 03, 2014, 06:01:55 PM »
No matter which header you use, I would put a flex joint between the header and the tail pipe. JEGS has them in their catalog.
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Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: header
« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2014, 08:26:36 PM »
    That's the way the 2.3L Ranger header is made. Sure wouldn't hurt to do that. Vibration starts at the head, and works it way down to the collector. A strap at the collector over to the tranie might help, or make it worse. Only one way to tell.
I don't think a strap would hurt at all, those headers are long and with the exhaust pipe hanging on it then with bouncing down the road the stress at the collector is multiplied at the flange and puts a lot of stress up by the head, you can bet that header is flexing all the time.
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Offline amc49

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Re: header
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2014, 04:57:19 PM »
Depends on where's it's cracking. Cutting flange to separate pipes can cure it if problem higher up, we started cutting them on race AMC headers after they cracked and problem disappeared. If cracking further down say at can then you'll need to put a flex joint or other to allow some movement, too restricted and it cracks.

Ford 2.0 has less vibration than 2.3, the TDC/BDC uneven rocking couple event is always more severe the bigger a four cylinder gets. Shortness of rod figures in there too.