I originally changed ignition modules because I had an extra one on the shelf in the barn.
Then a Ford 2.3 Turbo guy I know said, "I'll tell you right now that your problem is that ignition module."
So I bought a new one and tried that. (by now we're on module #3).
A couple of weeks later when I got the '76 Pinto engine, I bought all new stuff for that....coil, ignition module, cap, rotor, etc...
I figured that I'd try the other new ignition module on the car (#4 now).
No ignition module gives me any different result than any other ignition module.
Since my last post, I've done nothing.
I got hurt at work and everybody's been on my back to do NOTHING that doesn't have to be done.
However....
I drove the car on Sunday and it started and ran perfectly. It's now 49 degrees outside and has been raining for 2 days. I figured that this was the perfect time to see if the car would start.
Of course, it would not.
I pressed the gas pedal once (all the way to the floor) and let my foot completely off. I cranked it for 30 seconds or so and it turned over like nobody's business but wouldn't start. I turned the key off and waited 30 seconds then without pressing the gas, I tried again and got the same result.
I pulled the top of the air cleaner off and the choke was closed. I stuck a screwdriver down the carb and the car started right up.
When I pulled the screwdriver out, the choke did not close all the way anymore but the engine idled fine.
I turned the key off and tried again. The choke slams shut as soon as I crank the key. It does not open until the car starts.
Once the car starts, the choke opens up, everything is ducky and the car idles beautifully again.
I decided to check the timing. So I made a white mark on the crankshaft pulley (at zero).
Here's a picture:
Here's where the timing mark is at idle (less than 1000 rpm).
(Also, you'll see the interesting spark issue at the end of the recording.)
Does that timing look correct to you? I thought it was supposed to be something like 6 or 7 degrees?
Dave