PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: dianne on November 04, 2013, 07:46:07 AM
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Do these manifolds make a difference on a 2.0 engine? More horsepower or anything? Just looking for a little more get up and go!
What are these worth?
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One on ebay also with a weber carb :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Pinto-2-0-Stock-Manifold-With-Weber-Carb-/131032905015?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e822b7537&vxp=mtr
Is that worth it?
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Looks like a pretty good deal, but you already have a manifold, right?.
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Looks like a pretty good deal, but you already have a manifold, right?.
Yeah I do. Would that carb be better? I dunno. I always knew Webers from my Spitfire - that's going back to the early 70s though. Would that improve gas mileage also?
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It's a Weber, definitely superior.
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It's a Weber, definitely superior.
I'm thinking about it :)
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I'm thinking about it :)
Don't wait too long, lol.
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Don't wait too long, lol.
It's probably going to need a rebuild, that's first. I haven't done one yet. Would like to do the Holley 600CFM first honestly. I'm sure more will come up!
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It's probably going to need a rebuild, that's first. I haven't done one yet. Would like to do the Holley 600CFM first honestly. I'm sure more will come up!
Yep, I'm sure they'll be more.
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I had a Weber on mine years ago when I had the 2.0. It was ok but finicky. Spend your money on a cam pulley and read my post on how to degree the cam. You won't be sorry. Also on the 2.0, get rid of the points and put in electronic ignition. Petronix I think it's called? Or upgrade to a Mallory Unilite. These are the best bang for the buck. After those mods the stock 2.0 will rev to 7000 RPM all day and spank the tar out of a 2.3.
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I had a Weber on mine years ago when I had the 2.0. It was ok but finicky. Spend your money on a cam pulley and read my post on how to degree the cam. You won't be sorry. Also on the 2.0, get rid of the points and put in electronic ignition. Petronix I think it's called? Or upgrade to a Mallory Unilite. These are the best bang for the buck. After those mods the stock 2.0 will rev to 7000 RPM all day and spank the tar out of a 2.3.
This was Dave's car and put in a pointless thing in there. He rebuild the head and new cam bearings I think. When I have the other cars road worthy, I'm thinking rebuild on the wagon one day.
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One on ebay also with a weber carb :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Pinto-2-0-Stock-Manifold-With-Weber-Carb-/131032905015?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e822b7537&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Pinto-2-0-Stock-Manifold-With-Weber-Carb-/131032905015?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e822b7537&vxp=mtr)
Is that worth it?
there is a Motorcraft logo cast into the carb body.
something odd about that. choke on opposite side of carb and if you look closely it is plain as day.
shoot, i can't remember now. isn't the choke housing on the valve cover side of the carb ?
old age slowly creeping up on me.
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I'm getting old also! LOL
Seems that I'm sticking to stock for now ;)
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there is a Motorcraft logo cast into the carb body.
something odd about that. choke on opposite side of carb and if you look closely it is plain as day.
shoot, i can't remember now. isn't the choke housing on the valve cover side of the carb ?
old age slowly creeping up on me.
Nope on the outside, and throttle towards the firewall it's sitting right. ;)
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Dianne! The Esslinger intake is a no-no. The stock Pinto 2.0L intake is as good as it gets when used with a single carb! Spend your money on something else, like a nice set of wheels for the wagon. 13" wheels at swap meets are really cheap. I buy most of my parts there.
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Dianne! The Esslinger intake is a no-no. The stock Pinto 2.0L intake is as good as it gets when used with a single carb! Spend your money on something else, like a nice set of wheels for the wagon. 13" wheels at swap meets are really cheap. I buy most of my parts there.
I got trim rings coming for it with the Ford hubs. I think those look awesome, so awesome I'm looking to do it on my Maverick also. Like this picture:
The Pinto ones don't say Ford Motor Company though.
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Nope on the outside, and throttle towards the firewall it's sitting right. ;)
well then i guess it's back to the 'home' for me ! :'(
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well then i guess it's back to the 'home' for me ! :'(
LOL.. :D
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Did you ever sell this intake?,JL @ 217-412-4056
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I second the post on the manifold and advancing the cam...
Years ago I ran a 390 cfm holly 4 barrel on a stock 2.0 manifold with an adapter.
You can also gain a bit of performance by having the main jet on the stock carburetor bored out a bit.
The down side of opening up the jet is that it decreases gas mileage.
The biggest increase in performance will come from.advancing the cam timing about 4 degrees.
I posted some instructions about modifying a stock cam pulley by widening the keyway with a file and inserting a shim to provide about 4 degrees of advance. Same effect as a $160 adjustable cam pulley for about an hour of work.
I did this to my pulley after the aluminum adj pulley had severe wear.
Not sure how to include a link to the post, but you can find it in a post in the "71-73 pinto 2.0 engine" discussion a few days ago...
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First by now pintos if unrebuilt have old tired engines. A rebuild doesn't cost much more than a cam and since you must pull the head to change the cam might as well do the valves. Stock rebuild on the bottom engine shouldn't be to spendy either. Well a fresh engine well tuned will go. Best change is an aluminum flywheel. Shocking difference. Timing is everything. If you street drive it and aren't racing keep your vacuum advance. Mechanical advance all in by 3,500 worked well but good luck finding a distributor machine.
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Where can you get a 2.0 short block done for the price of a cam?
I have a spare block and would like to have it redone.. The shops here in the dallas area are wanting from $750 to 1200 for a short block with pistons, bearings, etc.
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Changing the cam requires pulling the head. It installs from the rear of the head. Well that means all the gaskets to rebuild it except the oil pan. Plus cam and followers. Logically , Have block honed and rebuild the connecting rods sounds like for the price charged they will also assemble and paint. Work you can do yourself. Also I'm not kidding if you want better acceleration add an aluminum flywheel.
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Well modifying the cam pulley and adding a shim to advance the cam takes about an hour of labor and costs the price of a finishing nail and vastly improves the low end torque.
The factory distributor has about 15 degrees centrifugal advance, so if you d8sconnect the vacuum advance and set the initial timing at about 12 degrees at 1000 rpm it maxes out at about 27 degrees total which seems tk be optimum for the stock cam.
With the above mods my 73 wagon seems to start making power at about 2600 rpm, down from 3000 without the advance and pulls to 5000 with stock carb.
The vacuum advance retards the timing during hard acceleration to avoid pinking and tends to reduce torque.
Where do you find aluminum flywheels for a 2.0
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Google is your friend. It was the 90s when I set up my autocrosser but I got it from Racer Walsh
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A lot has changed sinse the 90s
in the 80s I built a 2.0 for a capri with isky cam, headers, mallory dual point distributor, holly 4 bbl, etc. In those days in so cal you could drive to orange county and buy most anything for a 2.0.
Now all the racers have gone to the 2.3 and 2.0 parts are scarce as hens teeth. I got an adjustable cam pulley from kent cams thru racer and it lasted 5000 miles before the teeth wore out..
Racer is a great guy, but he is also having difficulty getting parts for the 2.0 most of the speed equipment mfrs have stopped mfring stuff for 2.0
Things like pistons, rings and bearings are also difficult and expensive to find.
About the only place you can get 2.0 parts now is from england.
Thats why I came up with the mod for using a stock steel pulley and shim to advance the cam.
The mod is inexpensive, doesnt require a shop, engine removal, taking the car off the road, etc.
My car has 60k miles and has a good engine, just needed more low end torque. There are a lot of cars with good engines that just need a little more power.
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I found aluminum flywheel at a swap meet, 35 dollar. Was told for 2.3 and it was really for a 2.0
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What is the weight of the aluminum one
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Unknown weight but made a big difference with aluminum driveshaft behind a T5. I actually have 2 solid aluminum one and fid Anza one with steel mating surface. I bought both used. My guess is 10lbs on both.
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