Connect the long wire from the kit to the positive choke cap to the terminal marked (+). Connect the other end of the wire to
an ignition activated 12V source. The choke cap should only get voltage when the engine is running. Check your voltage
source with a voltmeter. The 12V source selected should be fused. If not, an inline fuse rated at 10 amps should be installed.

Check to see if you have 12v at the ignition coil. Some may have lower voltage because of resistores, but I would check. If you have 12v then ad a 10a fuse and you should be good as long as you only have power with the key on. Or you can find a line that goes to the fuse box that is only on with the ignition and running engine.

 If you connect it to a 12V keyed source the choke will begin to heat up & start to open as soon as the key is turned 'on'. So if you wait a couple of min. before starting the choke will be open & more or less useless. Also anytime the key is 'on.' while you may be doing other things the choke will heat up.
 I've used the 'S' (stator) terminal in the the past & plan to use it on my current build also. It only has power when the alt is turning. You could add a additional O/P switch but that may require the use of a relay to handle the load of the choke.